Upfitter amp limits - noob question

[UtahBrandon]

Given the 10-30amp ratings for each of the Upfitter switches, do most lighting kits (DD, BD, etc.) and onboard compressor solutions (ARB) only route a low amp relay wire to the up fitters, with a larger wire tapping directly to the battery to pull the operating amperage? I get my DD ditch lights next week so I have yet to see how they're wired. I'm also considering the 14-28 no-load amp draw from an onboard ARB compressor, and which accessory needs to go to which Upfitter.

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[RagnarKon]

Lights you can usually wire up directly to the up-fitter switch lines. Especially with the relatively low power draw of LED lights these days.

The compressor you DEFINITELY cannot. Instead you'll have to write the Aux switch to a relay that controls the power for the compressor. The power for the compressor itself should come directly from the battery and have its own fuses (probably dual 30/40-amp fuses if I were to guess).

Also be careful with the AUX1 switch line. The pre-run wires are only 16 AWG... which is way too thin of a wire for a 30 Amp load that extends beyond ~ 1 to 2 feet.

EDIT— Should probably also wire a diode between the AUX line and the relay for the compressor in case that relay goes "pop".

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Given the 10-30amp ratings for each of the Upfitter switches, do most lighting kits (DD, BD, etc.) and onboard compressor solutions (ARB) only route a low amp relay wire to the up fitters, with a larger wire tapping directly to the battery to pull the operating amperage? I get my DD ditch lights next week so I have yet to see how they're wired. I'm also considering the 14-28 no-load amp draw from an onboard ARB compressor, and which accessory needs to go to which Upfitter.

Any of the lighting kits that we offer are designed with your upfitters in mind. So nothing we sell will blow the upfitter fuses if you use the correct ones and follow the guides. For example, the 8x XL Linkable Kit from Baja Designs pulls 16amps. That'll work with your higher amp upfitters.

The ARB Compressor (the twin anyway) has a built-in relay system, so the upfitter wired used doesn't matter, it's just a trigger wire. The single compressor is a different story. The compressor includes a relay which you'll use and then you use your upfitter as the trigger wire.

Both compressors DO require power from the battery but because of the included relays, any upfitter can trigger them. DO NOT try and power your compressor directly from the upfitter, no bueno!

 

[HotdogThud]

Lights you can usually wire up directly to the up-fitter switch lines. Especially with the relatively low power draw of LED lights these days.

The compressor you DEFINITELY cannot. Instead you'll have to write the Aux switch to a relay that controls the power for the compressor. The power for the compressor itself should come directly from the battery and have its own fuses (probably dual 30/40-amp fuses if I were to guess).

Also be careful with the AUX1 switch line. The pre-run wires are only 16 AWG... which is way too thin of a wire for a 30 Amp load that extends beyond ~ 1 to 2 feet.

EDIT— Should probably also wire a diode between the AUX line and the relay for the compressor in case that relay goes "pop".

bit of a revival from the dead on this thread, but I'm building a battery system for the rear end, and am thinking of tying a low amperage charge controller to AUX1, then tying back to the rear end with the cross connect and using that to power the charger (no more than a 15-20A load, since it's a small battery. still gotta find a decent charger that doesn't break the bank and will fit in the form factor). Think I can pull that off safely?

 

[cr117]

bit of a revival from the dead on this thread, but I'm building a battery system for the rear end, and am thinking of tying a low amperage charge controller to AUX1, then tying back to the rear end with the cross connect and using that to power the charger (no more than a 15-20A load, since it's a small battery. still gotta find a decent charger that doesn't break the bank and will fit in the form factor). Think I can pull that off safely?

I wouldn’t go higher than a 20A charger and tie it to the 1st switch. Should be doable, but if it were me, I’d run my own higher-gauge wire from the AUX switch wire back to the DC-DC charger. I don’t trust the pre-run wires Ford provided to carry that high of a load all the way back there.

 

[HotdogThud]

I wouldn’t go higher than a 20A charger and tie it to the 1st switch. Should be doable, but if it were me, I’d run my own higher-gauge wire from the AUX switch wire back to the DC-DC charger. I don’t trust the pre-run wires Ford provided to carry that high of a load all the way back there.

Yeah, I'm trying to get around having to run a ton of wiring, but I'm not sure it's going to shake out that way. thanks for the input

 

[HotdogThud]

I wouldn’t go higher than a 20A charger and tie it to the 1st switch. Should be doable, but if it were me, I’d run my own higher-gauge wire from the AUX switch wire back to the DC-DC charger. I don’t trust the pre-run wires Ford provided to carry that high of a load all the way back there.

I suspect this will actually fit the bill:

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Orion-TR-Isolated-Charger-Supply/dp/B0851TPKV7

only 18A output so it *shouldn't* be a problem.

....shouldn't

Honestly with the heat we've got here in AZ, having a charger that runs a bit lower power and doesn't produce as much waste heat is probably smarter anyways. I hear the 12/12/30's run *hot*, and that doesn't sound good when the inside of the truck can hit 150 deg in july

 

[cr117]

I suspect this will actually fit the bill:

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Orion-TR-Isolated-Charger-Supply/dp/B0851TPKV7

only 18A output so it *shouldn't* be a problem.

....shouldn't

Honestly with the heat we've got here in AZ, having a charger that runs a bit lower power and doesn't produce as much waste heat is probably smarter anyways. I hear the 12/12/30's run *hot*, and that doesn't sound good when the inside of the truck can hit 150 deg in july

Yep, that should work just fine. You could actually get away with this one since you don’t necessarily need an isolated setup (just ground everything to the frame).

 

[HotdogThud]

Yep, that should work just fine. You could actually get away with this one since you don’t necessarily need an isolated setup (just ground everything to the frame).

I looked at that one specifically, but I want the Bluetooth aspect too

 

[Area51BS]

And what ever heavy wire you run, please don’t use the CCA crap.

 

[cr117]

I looked at that one specifically, but I want the Bluetooth aspect too

Ah, yeah that makes sense. Not that much of a price difference anyways.

And what ever heavy wire you run, please don’t use the CCA crap.

Yes, pure copper only.

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