Bass on a Budget audio upgrade

First off, thanks to everyone that answered my questions over the past week or so as I sorted thru my process of adding a sub to our 2 door Bronco. Since purchasing it in 2023, the audio system has been a source of great disappointment. We did have the dummy sub and amp and we did get our $250.00 credit, wo hoo. So knowing this and thinking about it, I set out to fix the problem for $250.00 or less. So here is my list and costs.

8" Sub- CT Sounds Bio 8, Dual 4ohm Voice Coils - $58
Amp - CT Sounds-400.1 Mono Amp - $118
8 Gauge Wiring Kit - CT Sounds $34
Low Output Converter - Amazon $18
HDPE plastic for Amp Mount - Amazon $10
Miscellaneous Connectors - $5

Total - $243.00

Installed by tapping in to the two front kick panel speakers. Connected those to the LOC. The LOC is fairly handy as it also included the Remote turn on function. Also powered it from the rear 12volt power point once I figured out it shuts down and is not constant power.

Modified the factory box for the 8", way easier than I thought, it fits like glove.

Fashioned a mounting plate using the 1/4" plastic sheet, really easy.

Wired up the Amp and bring on the boom.

Really sounds great and I am really happy with the result. The added benefit of doing it this way, there is no need to do anything in Forscan to make this work.

I hope this helps someone and it's not a Kicker Key.

Looks great!

without removing the panel, how do you know if you have the dummy sub setup that fits the 8” sub vs the smaller 6.xx” sub

ClappinCheex369 said:

without removing the panel, how do you know if you have the dummy sub setup that fits the 8” sub vs the smaller 6.xx” sub

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If your window sticker shows the sub delete with a $250 credit, you have the dummy sub set up. I believe this was only in 2023, but I may be wrong.
If you don't have your original window sticker, you can look it up online with the vin.

Heath Aggen said:

If your window sticker shows the sub delete with a $250 credit, you have the dummy sub set up. I believe this was only in 2023, but I may be wrong.
If you don't have your original window sticker, you can look it up online with the vin.

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I have that delete on mine on the sub but thought they had two different sizes sub holes. Or are they all the same size?

ClappinCheex369 said:

I have that delete on mine on the sub but thought they had two different sizes sub holes. Or are they all the same size?

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All come with a 6.5” sub, but the B&O has a removable trim ring that is easily pullable to fit an 8”, the standard you have to do a bit of trimming to enlarge the hole

Brian_B said:

All come with a 6.5” sub, but the B&O has a removable trim ring that is easily pullable to fit an 8”, the standard you have to do a bit of trimming to enlarge the hole

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Ahhh okay. That’s what it was. Thank you!

I would recommend getting rid of that CCA wire.

Area51BS said:

I would recommend getting rid of that CCA wire.

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CCA wire?

Heath Aggen said:

CCA wire?

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Copper Clad Aluminum wire. It’s a bad conductor compared to OFC, Oxygen Free Copper. It requires at least one size larger wire to carry same load and has higher resistance.
I would also add the blue wire taps used are poor connectors. They also make poor connections and can cause wire corrosion and heat buildup.

I appreciate the feedback. This is the first time I have used the wire clip type connector. I was on the fence but I can see where you are coming from. As far as the power wire, this is just a small wattage amp pushing a 2 ohm load the way I have the sub wired, so it will probably be okay for this application. Right now it is pushing all the power I would ever want it to. But if things change down the road I will pull a new wire.