HERITAGE EDITION Bronco Club

[5GENIDN]

I think so!

Lets be honest though... the Bronco does that all ready!

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[BigFootie]

Lets be honest though... the Bronco does that all ready!

True, but portals and a steering rack would make it permanent!

 

[dmcdeezie]

I believe these are the mirror caps purchased. I've been thinking about these myself. They do look good.
https://www.lethalperformance.com/s...rd-2023-bronco/body-and-styling/mirror-covers

Thanks so much! Yes, the OP said they were from Lethal Performance. If I ever do get my RR 2 door heritage, these will be my first purchase!

 

[mjcutri]

This is my solution to not having homelink buttons. Perfect fit.

 

[RedWagon]

Awesome list of mods, you definitely need to post more in our little group! I was fixin to do the ARB compressor here at some point too, so would love to hear how that went. Us Heritage owners are the most friendly on the forum! I feel all the pain and suffering waiting for our Broncos helps us (me at least!) appreciate how fun they are even more.

Your going to tired after this. Here goes:

• Air line:

I know it maybe overkill but I used napa 300psi line - 10' with a thermal sheath in the engine bay and behind beside the exhaust Gates 90° M-F Fitting , Gates bulkhead adaptor, Gates hose coupling, Yoebor 45° M-F Fitting and Black Metal Zip Ties. From the engine mount I ran the line on top of the passage frame/gas tank to a flat black painted Aluminum L bracket.

• AIr Power

I unwrapped the electrical tape from the wire loom and removed all the wires I didn't need. Then moved the relay connection and inline fuse re wrapped the wires with the pressure switch line terminating at the aux wiring looms. Sorry the pic may not show the loom I tried to hide it behind the loom above the firewall.

Power Lead & Pressure Switch:

Relay:

Wire Loom:

For the connectors I followed @rtaylor idea.


Battery:

• Winch

For the Controller mount, I followed @mds5917 idea also here is his video.

The Positive line follows the front sub frame. Again used a bulk battery cable from NAPA with wire sheath - 10'.

Ran the positive line the Power Interrupt Solenoid.

I'm glad @RagnarKon link made a video on installing the Ford performance winch, after seeing the Bronco build Ford mad I wanted to email Ford Performance back and ask why they told me it wouldn't fit. I had done the same modification @RagnarKon had done, also didn't have a die grinder and wish I would have invested in one.

Here is a pic of my vans:

I ran the warn controller line and GMRS antenna though the big grommet under the coolant reservoir. If you do this it is a lot easier with our the reservoir and the KR mount installed.

Onto the interior. I made to inline connections for the controller cable. One under the passage area and one under the middle console[sorry no pic].

--Also I 'modified', cut the mounting bracket to just be a plate on the inside of the center console. Here again is a pic from the inside of the center console. I did bore out the mounting hole just a little to use Bronco bolts.

• GMRS Radio

For the handset port I ran a STP 90° CAT 6 cable, that link is 10'/3M way too much should have tried 6'/2M cable, up the passage A piler to the back of the above middle console. Don't have the member who gave me that idea. But here is the RJ45 Coupler.

 

[DrewMackin]

Your going to tired after this. Here goes:

• Air line:

I know it maybe overkill but I used napa 300psi line - 10' with a thermal sheath in the engine bay and behind beside the exhaust Gates 90° M-F Fitting , Gates bulkhead adaptor, Gates hose coupling, Yoebor 45° M-F Fitting and Black Metal Zip Ties. From the engine mount I ran the line on top of the passage frame/gas tank to a flat black painted Aluminum L bracket.

• AIr Power

I unwrapped the electrical tape from the wire loom and removed all the wires I didn't need. Then moved the relay connection and inline fuse re wrapped the wires with the pressure switch line terminating at the aux wiring looms. Sorry the pic may not show the loom I tried to hide it behind the loom above the firewall.

Power Lead & Pressure Switch:

Relay:

Wire Loom:

For the connectors I followed @rtaylor idea.


Battery:

• Winch

For the Controller mount, I followed @mds5917 idea also here is his video.

The Positive line follows the front sub frame. Again used a bulk battery cable from NAPA with wire sheath - 10'.

Ran the positive line the Power Interrupt Solenoid.

I'm glad @RagnarKon link made a video on installing the Ford performance winch, after seeing the Bronco build Ford mad I wanted to email Ford Performance back and ask why they told me it wouldn't fit. I had done the same modification @RagnarKon had done, also didn't have a die grinder and wish I would have invested in one.

Here is a pic of my vans:

I ran the warn controller line and GMRS antenna though the big grommet under the coolant reservoir. If you do this it is a lot easier with our the reservoir and the KR mount installed.

Onto the interior. I made to inline connections for the controller cable. One under the passage area and one under the middle console[sorry no pic].

--Also I 'modified', cut the mounting bracket to just be a plate on the inside of the center console. Here again is a pic from the inside of the center console. I did bore out the mounting hole just a little to use Bronco bolts.

• GMRS Radio

For the handset port I ran a STP 90° CAT 6 cable, that link is 10'/3M way too much should have tried 6'/2M cable, up the passage A piler to the back of the above middle console. Don't have the member who gave me that idea. But here is the RJ45 Coupler.

Wow, awesome! That was a ton of work. The winch setup looks a lot cleaner moving the controller under the hood too. I like the spot you chose for the air line next to the exhaust. Maybe I missed it, but did you move the compressor switch into the cabin?

 

[5GENIDN]

Your going to tired after this. Here goes:

• Air line:

I know it maybe overkill but I used napa 300psi line - 10' with a thermal sheath in the engine bay and behind beside the exhaust Gates 90° M-F Fitting , Gates bulkhead adaptor, Gates hose coupling, Yoebor 45° M-F Fitting and Black Metal Zip Ties. From the engine mount I ran the line on top of the passage frame/gas tank to a flat black painted Aluminum L bracket.

• AIr Power

I unwrapped the electrical tape from the wire loom and removed all the wires I didn't need. Then moved the relay connection and inline fuse re wrapped the wires with the pressure switch line terminating at the aux wiring looms. Sorry the pic may not show the loom I tried to hide it behind the loom above the firewall.

Power Lead & Pressure Switch:

Relay:

Wire Loom:

For the connectors I followed @rtaylor idea.


Battery:

• Winch

For the Controller mount, I followed @mds5917 idea also here is his video.

The Positive line follows the front sub frame. Again used a bulk battery cable from NAPA with wire sheath - 10'.

Ran the positive line the Power Interrupt Solenoid.

I'm glad @RagnarKon link made a video on installing the Ford performance winch, after seeing the Bronco build Ford mad I wanted to email Ford Performance back and ask why they told me it wouldn't fit. I had done the same modification @RagnarKon had done, also didn't have a die grinder and wish I would have invested in one.

Here is a pic of my vans:

I ran the warn controller line and GMRS antenna though the big grommet under the coolant reservoir. If you do this it is a lot easier with our the reservoir and the KR mount installed.

Onto the interior. I made to inline connections for the controller cable. One under the passage area and one under the middle console[sorry no pic].

--Also I 'modified', cut the mounting bracket to just be a plate on the inside of the center console. Here again is a pic from the inside of the center console. I did bore out the mounting hole just a little to use Bronco bolts.

• GMRS Radio

For the handset port I ran a STP 90° CAT 6 cable, that link is 10'/3M way too much should have tried 6'/2M cable, up the passage A piler to the back of the above middle console. Don't have the member who gave me that idea. But here is the RJ45 Coupler.

That is what I am talking about! Clean, very professional, well thought out... even uses small details like the "Bronco bolts" where they are visible... Nice! I absolutely love the attention to detail. and well written up....

 

[oneryan]

My build week has remained steady at 1/15 now for a few weeks so I'm starting to believe it. When dates get pushed back is there typically any pattern to it? Like, if you've made to 3 days before, you're good or somesuch? Or they usually push back X days/weeks ahead of time....

closest i ever got before the last debacle was 2 weeks.. i'm rooting for you

 

[oneryan]

Your going to tired after this. Here goes:

• Air line:

I know it maybe overkill but I used napa 300psi line - 10' with a thermal sheath in the engine bay and behind beside the exhaust Gates 90° M-F Fitting , Gates bulkhead adaptor, Gates hose coupling, Yoebor 45° M-F Fitting and Black Metal Zip Ties. From the engine mount I ran the line on top of the passage frame/gas tank to a flat black painted Aluminum L bracket.

• AIr Power

I unwrapped the electrical tape from the wire loom and removed all the wires I didn't need. Then moved the relay connection and inline fuse re wrapped the wires with the pressure switch line terminating at the aux wiring looms. Sorry the pic may not show the loom I tried to hide it behind the loom above the firewall.

Power Lead & Pressure Switch:

Relay:

Wire Loom:

For the connectors I followed @rtaylor idea.


Battery:

• Winch

For the Controller mount, I followed @mds5917 idea also here is his video.

The Positive line follows the front sub frame. Again used a bulk battery cable from NAPA with wire sheath - 10'.

Ran the positive line the Power Interrupt Solenoid.

I'm glad @RagnarKon link made a video on installing the Ford performance winch, after seeing the Bronco build Ford mad I wanted to email Ford Performance back and ask why they told me it wouldn't fit. I had done the same modification @RagnarKon had done, also didn't have a die grinder and wish I would have invested in one.

Here is a pic of my vans:

I ran the warn controller line and GMRS antenna though the big grommet under the coolant reservoir. If you do this it is a lot easier with our the reservoir and the KR mount installed.

Onto the interior. I made to inline connections for the controller cable. One under the passage area and one under the middle console[sorry no pic].

--Also I 'modified', cut the mounting bracket to just be a plate on the inside of the center console. Here again is a pic from the inside of the center console. I did bore out the mounting hole just a little to use Bronco bolts.

• GMRS Radio

For the handset port I ran a STP 90° CAT 6 cable, that link is 10'/3M way too much should have tried 6'/2M cable, up the passage A piler to the back of the above middle console. Don't have the member who gave me that idea. But here is the RJ45 Coupler.

what are you running with the compressor? that's the same one i have on my land rover to drive the lockers.

 

[RedWagon]

Wow, awesome! That was a ton of work. The winch setup looks a lot cleaner moving the controller under the hood too. I like the spot you chose for the air line next to the exhaust. Maybe I missed it, but did you move the compressor switch into the cabin?

I ran the pressure switch to aux 3.

 

[RedWagon]

what are you running with the compressor? that's the same one i have on my land rover to drive the lockers.

Just the line to the back of the wagon.

 

[mjcutri]

Here is the STL file for the window bolt washer for anyone that wants to print their own.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6415557

 

[C6ZZGT]

So I got the two Rockworkx thumbscrew bolts to use on the rear windows because on the 2DR, the bolts are kinda annoying to get to since they are right behind the rollbar. The thumbscrews are just a little too big to fit into the "dimple" on the window, so I 3D printed new "washers" that mimic the original bolt's profile.
Works perfect and now it will be a 2 min job to remove the windows.

The shadow makes it look like the thumbscrew sticks out further that it really does. It is just about flush with the window.

I have my boy printing that as I type,Thanks. Which bolt did you use ? When I ordered bolts I decided NOT to use the 2 up top on the front of the top and just left the originals there.

 

[mjcutri]

I have my boy printing that as I type,Thanks. Which bolt did you use ? When I ordered bolts I decided NOT to use the 2 up top on the front of the top and just left the originals there.

I used the bolts for up top, I just ordered the two
https://www.rockworkx.com/collectio...x-thumb-screw-2-pc-set?variant=41980754100420

I haven't gotten the bolts for the hardtop because with the MOD, I get enough of the open air with just the panels and windows removed, so I don't think I will pull the whole thing off frequently enough to justify the bolts. I still might end up getting them, but it would be more for aesthetics.

 

[C6ZZGT]

I used the bolts for up top, I just ordered the two
https://www.rockworkx.com/collectio...x-thumb-screw-2-pc-set?variant=41980754100420

I haven't gotten the bolts for the hardtop because with the MOD, I get enough of the open air with just the panels and windows removed, so I don't think I will pull the whole thing off frequently enough to justify the bolts. I still might end up getting them, but it would be more for aesthetics.

Thanks ,then we should be good to try it out tomorrow if it dries out around here.

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