2” Spacers or springs lift kit?

[jh3113]

Just add the Bilstein 5100 kit - its about $450 and install would be around $900+/-
you dont need new springs
spacers are sketch

Where do you see them for $450? Are these what you installed? If so, how do you like them?

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[Lak34ers]

Where do you see them for $450? Are these what you installed? If so, how do you like them?

I have 5100 front side 5160 on rear of my f150 and they are awesome. Ride so nice. Upgrading to 6100s on my Bronco with heavy bumper and winch. I order from here and it shipped next day.

https://jeepandtruckparts.com/produ...-shock-absorber-1?_pos=1&_sid=4ed718720&_ss=r

 

[Bruno]

Thank you for this

this doesnt include the strut only option with adjustable height

 

[Bruno]

Where do you see them for $450? Are these what you installed? If so, how do you like them?

imean....google it? I see them listed for more, and for less....
i have not installed yet, but plan to

 

[Bronccraig]

Just got a RC 2 inch done today ($550 ) install and kit, for my beach riding and some mudding in central fla I just wanted some space and to put on some sas takeoffs people hate lol..looks good now and have some better tires for mud and sand

 

[PWillette]

I was looking to add some aftermarket wheels
Fuel Rebel 6 (17x9)
bf goodrich ko2 35”
From what I read online. In order to not rub, I would have to have a 2” lift
I’m still trying to figure out if this is true or just playing it safe

I can confirm (as can many others) a lift is not required to run 35 x 12.50s on a non-Sas Badlands...just need a wheel with correct offset of +30mm or less and remove the crash bars. Factory suspension on a Squatched Bronco running 35 x 12.50 on +30mm offset wheels is only lifted and additional .375" above non-Sas Badlands.

 

[Alpha1_Silverback]

Non-SAS BL 1.5" wheel spacers, stock wheels (+55) no lift. 315/70/17 Wildpeak AT3

 

[rtazz17]

I’m looking to add a 2” lift to my Badlands Non SAS. 2.7
I want to remove the stock 33”wheel/tires
and add some 35”.

Would I be OK with a
ZONE 2 inch spacer leveling lift kit?

Or do I need to do something like an
EIBACK Pro Lift kit (springs only)

???




besides being my daily driver. I do plan on doing some offroading on the weekends.
I do consider myself a beginner, so I don’t feel like I’ll be doing any major rock crawling trails for now.
but as I gain experience, down the line, I could try some more intermediate / advanced trails.

dont do spacers. junk

 

[rtaylor]

Would I be OK with a
ZONE 2 inch spacer leveling lift kit?

Since you have factory bilsteins, it is not a terrible option. The bump stop spacer component will reduce the maximum wheel travel capability. The preload spacer will unbalance the up-travel to down-travel ratio (and ESVC). The strut spacer component will increase the max droop, max CV angle, and max tie rod angle. It's a compromise between lift, some reduced performance, and some increased drivetrain risk.

The 5100's and similar are a downgrade for badlands or sasquatch (but a significant upgrade for base models). They have an adjustable preload collar, but an important note is that they are designed to work best at stock sasquatch ride height (proper up-travel to down-travel ratio). Down-travel will suck if you set preload for 2" lift above BL, but it would be fine for street use.

 

[BroncoVegas19]

dont do spacers. junk

Can you elaborate a bit more ?
Have you had or seen

Since you have factory bilsteins, it is not a terrible option. The bump stop spacer component will reduce the maximum wheel travel capability. The preload spacer will unbalance the up-travel to down-travel ratio (and ESVC). The strut spacer component will increase the max droop, max CV angle, and max tie rod angle. It's a compromise between lift, some reduced performance, and some increased drivetrain risk.

The 5100's and similar are a downgrade for badlands or sasquatch (but a significant upgrade for base models). They have an adjustable preload collar, but an important note is that they are designed to work best at stock sasquatch ride height (proper up-travel to down-travel ratio). Down-travel will suck if you set preload for 2" lift above BL, but it would be fine for street use.

Thank you. This breakdown really helps me
As I’ve gotten feedback and advice from not only this thread, but also from the service guys at one of the Ford dealerships near my home.
I was told by one of the service guys at Ford to just do a simple 2” spacers lift kit. And that would minimize changing the way all the other suspension components Were designed to function on the Badland.
And I was told it was the most cost effective but safest, being that it was done by a dealership and any issues would fall under the warranty and be fixed promptly.

but then I was told by another dealership service employee, that I should just find some Sasquatch (springs, shocks kit) take off’s and just install them on to my badlands.

Your thoughts?

 

[BroncoVegas19]

dont do spacers. junk

Can you elaborate a bit more ?
Have you had a bad experience in the past?

 

[BroncoVegas19]

I can confirm (as can many others) a lift is not required to run 35 x 12.50s on a non-Sas Badlands...just need a wheel with correct offset of +30mm or less and remove the crash bars. Factory suspension on a Squatched Bronco running 35 x 12.50 on +30mm offset wheels is only lifted and additional .375" above non-Sas Badlands.

Thank you. This info is really helping me with making my final decision.

 

[rtaylor]

I was told by one of the service guys at Ford to just do a simple 2” spacers lift kit. And that would minimize changing the way all the other suspension components Were designed to function on the Badland.
And I was told it was the most cost effective but safest, being that it was done by a dealership and any issues would fall under the warranty and be fixed promptly.

but then I was told by another dealership service employee, that I should just find some Sasquatch (springs, shocks kit) take off’s and just install them on to my badlands.

Your thoughts?

It mostly depends on what ground clearance or look you want.

If a tie rod or CV axle fails, there is no guarantee that factory warranty would cover with 2" lift. It depends on your dealership and where you live. If dealer installs, they are probably more likely to ignore the lift for warranty.

Swapping Badlands to Sasquatch seems like a poor return since the difference is so small (I think 0.4"). You could just add parts from the RC 1" kit (0.25" lower spacer on front, 2x0.1875" upper spacers on rear) to your Badlands coilovers to get the equivalent 0.4" for $60. Or you could buy two sets and do 1" on front and 0.4" on rear. Used sasquatch coilovers are probably still expensive (sold mine for $1K).

 

[IwannaGOfast]

I have the Eibach springs on my non sasquatch badlands. Eibach used my bronco to test fit their springs on a non sasquatch BL. The springs ride really nice. I am extremely happy with the stance. All stock suspension components/geometry with a higher ride height.

I am still running stock 33's. I have 315/70/17 bfg ko2's for it, but have yet to mount them an unfortunately will be a few more weeks until I can do so. Also the bfg ko2's run small compared to other brand 35's so minimal lift is needed to clear them. My original plan was just a zone 1" leveling spacer kit up front. That is until I heard about the Eibach pro lift springs.

 

[V1Rotate]

Can you elaborate a bit more ?
Have you had a bad experience in the past?

There’s nothing inherently “junk” about a spacer lift but it does have major down sides depending on how you’re using it. The benefit of a spacer lift is it keeps your exact ride quality/strut performance as you remain right in the middle of the window where the shock was designed to perform. The significant downside is it doesn’t limit downtravel so at full droop you’re now significantly more extended than you would have been otherwise and it puts major stress on your CV’s and Tie rods (which is where folks are having issues when they add spacer lifts and don’t know how to offroad properly). If you simply jam a 2-3” spacer up there and do any real off-roading expect to have issues at some point with tie rods/rack and CV’s. With a front wheel off the ground and severely over-extended and it comes down and makes contact w/ traction when you’re on the gas in 4wd the rest is history. Especially on an IFS vehicle as you don’t have the articulation of a solid axle and you’ll get a wheel off the ground a little easier.
Using lift springs on your factory struts has it’s advantages in some regards as it doesn’t add further down travel and stress on factory components but that’s where the benefits likely stop. What it does do though is cause the strut to ride in its “extended” range and you have basically zero down travel because it’s already there. Ride quality will suffer and off-road performance too. It would likely be fine if you’re just trying to achieve a look and for street use.
Another option are perch collars which basically do something similar to lift coils except they just add pre-load to the spring on the factory strut.
The zone 2” lift takes some of both of these techniques which maximizes the benefits and minimizes the downside. It’s a combo small perch collar lift + small spacer lift. It doesn’t add too much down travel which mitigates damage risk and it doesn’t pre-load the spring to the point of riding so high in the extended zone your ride goes to junk. It’s a solid approach if you already have factory Bilstein’s are are not looking to Replace those with a full coilover setup and don’t want more than 2” lifT over SAS. Lots of folks like to look down their nose at non-coilover lifts but they mostly don’t understand the various types and how they work and the upside/downside of each.

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