2” Spacers or springs lift kit?

[BroncoVegas19]

My badlands comes in next week (none sasquatch manual). I will tell you what i'm doing and also recommend what I would do in priority of cost

I would absolutely not use strut spacer which will over extend the OEM shock length into a region that will stress the CV shafts and steering geometry

In all cases below you will need your wheels to have a more agressive offset than your stock badlands wheels. I am going with zero offset. You will need wheel spacers or new wheels with the below lift options to run 35 tires. When you lift the wheel will "suck" in a bit. I don't like them tucked way inside the fender (I will has sasquatch fenders). If your keeping the OEM none sasquatch fenders you don't need as much offset

I'm keeping the stock suspension and swapping out the springs to eibach springs (should level and provide about 1/2" lift height over a stock sasquatch). Using OEM goodyear sasquatch tires (315). Icon rebound pro wheels zero offset. sasquatch fender flares. rokblokz mud flaps on day one protect sides. Self labor cost about $450

Other options in a general cost priority:
1) No lift. Add wheel spacers/new wheels as others have said. Some combinations may result in slight rub at extreme compression. Sasquatch set up has a bumpstop that is about 0.4" more to limit travel over the badlands none Sas

2) Add preload collar to your badlands bilstien to level out and create lift about 2 inches total in front. I would use a top hat spacer instead of preload in the back. Everything operates inside of original geometry. Self labor cost under $400

3) Sell your OEM take offs. Go Eibach stage 2 adjustable coil over. Will not need to replace upper control arm and you will have a height adjustable system. Self labor cost about $1500

4) Bilstien 5100 or 6100 shocks. Reuse your springs and top hats. I would prefer the 6100 because they hold alot more fluid and will deal with alot of abuse and is an ugrade in performance. (recover no cost for stock components). Do not need to replace upper control arms. Have height adjustable system. Self labor cost about $2000

5) Jump to next level with remote reservoir. Many options. You talk to King and they will confirm that their coilover will provide about up to 2 inch lift and not require upper control arm replacement. Designed to work with the full range of motion that Ford provides in the control arms. (now your in the self labor $4500 price range)

5) Price goes up from there

I was wondering how the ride/performance has been with the Eibach springs you mentioned that you were installing ?
Pro
Cons ?

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[Area51BS]

Non-SAS BL 1.5" wheel spacers, stock wheels (+55) no lift. 315/70/17 Wildpeak AT3

Perfect

 

[BroncoEnvy]

I'm gonna throw a monkey wrench in this thread.
315's on stock BL wheels, no spacers.
Just noticed a bit of rub in the right front, after upper control arm install. I think the tire is contacting the sway bar at full lock.
1.5" spacer lift all around.
The spacers do push the axles and tie rods down. The angles are kinda steep at full droop. Heading to Moab next month. Stay tuned.

What 1.5" spacer lift did you end up going with on all 4 corners? Also how did your trip to Moab go? Any issues?

 

[Sitruc_btb]

What 1.5" spacer lift did you end up going with on all 4 corners? Also how did your trip to Moab go? Any issues?

The Broncbuster 1.5" spacer kit. Moab was great! I've wheeled there before in my Dad in Law's TJ, but first time in the Bronco. It did awesome. No issues at all. It's mostly slow crawling, but a couple trails had some higher speed areas like the top of Poison Spider, and some whoops too. I bucked around a bit, but it never felt harsh. If I wasnt able to make an obstacle the first time, Id reverse, try a different line, maybe turn on a locker, and give it a go. Im not gonna hop around the rocks like a Rock Bouncer. Haha.
We stuck to 6 rated and lower trails, as it was my first time in thr Bronco, and my buddy's first time in his JLUR, so we didnt want to beat them up, and we had to drive home afterwards.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/spent-the-week-in-moab-5-22-5-28.74511/

 

[BroncoVegas19]

Since you have factory bilsteins, it is not a terrible option. The bump stop spacer component will reduce the maximum wheel travel capability. The preload spacer will unbalance the up-travel to down-travel ratio (and ESVC). The strut spacer component will increase the max droop, max CV angle, and max tie rod angle. It's a compromise between lift, some reduced performance, and some increased drivetrain risk.

The 5100's and similar are a downgrade for badlands or sasquatch (but a significant upgrade for base models). They have an adjustable preload collar, but an important note is that they are designed to work best at stock sasquatch ride height (proper up-travel to down-travel ratio). Down-travel will suck if you set preload for 2" lift above BL, but it would be fine for street use.

I’m now moving towards the
Eibach Coilovers stage 2.
Should i consider a new control arm ?
or would I be ok with the stick C. Arm?

 

[BroncoVegas19]

There’s nothing inherently “junk” about a spacer lift but it does have major down sides depending on how you’re using it. The benefit of a spacer lift is it keeps your exact ride quality/strut performance as you remain right in the middle of the window where the shock was designed to perform. The significant downside is it doesn’t limit downtravel so at full droop you’re now significantly more extended than you would have been otherwise and it puts major stress on your CV’s and Tie rods (which is where folks are having issues when they add spacer lifts and don’t know how to offroad properly). If you simply jam a 2-3” spacer up there and do any real off-roading expect to have issues at some point with tie rods/rack and CV’s. With a front wheel off the ground and severely over-extended and it comes down and makes contact w/ traction when you’re on the gas in 4wd the rest is history. Especially on an IFS vehicle as you don’t have the articulation of a solid axle and you’ll get a wheel off the ground a little easier.
Using lift springs on your factory struts has it’s advantages in some regards as it doesn’t add further down travel and stress on factory components but that’s where the benefits likely stop. What it does do though is cause the strut to ride in its “extended” range and you have basically zero down travel because it’s already there. Ride quality will suffer and off-road performance too. It would likely be fine if you’re just trying to achieve a look and for street use.
Another option are perch collars which basically do something similar to lift coils except they just add pre-load to the spring on the factory strut.
The zone 2” lift takes some of both of these techniques which maximizes the benefits and minimizes the downside. It’s a combo small perch collar lift + small spacer lift. It doesn’t add too much down travel which mitigates damage risk and it doesn’t pre-load the spring to the point of riding so high in the extended zone your ride goes to junk. It’s a solid approach if you already have factory Bilstein’s are are not looking to Replace those with a full coilover setup and don’t want more than 2” lifT over SAS. Lots of folks like to look down their nose at non-coilover lifts but they mostly don’t understand the various types and how they work and the upside/downside of each.

Your thoughts if I went with the Eibach Coilovers 2.0 ?
Would i need an upgraded control arm ?

 

[BroncoVegas19]

My badlands comes in next week (none sasquatch manual). I will tell you what i'm doing and also recommend what I would do in priority of cost

I would absolutely not use strut spacer which will over extend the OEM shock length into a region that will stress the CV shafts and steering geometry

In all cases below you will need your wheels to have a more agressive offset than your stock badlands wheels. I am going with zero offset. You will need wheel spacers or new wheels with the below lift options to run 35 tires. When you lift the wheel will "suck" in a bit. I don't like them tucked way inside the fender (I will has sasquatch fenders). If your keeping the OEM none sasquatch fenders you don't need as much offset

I'm keeping the stock suspension and swapping out the springs to eibach springs (should level and provide about 1/2" lift height over a stock sasquatch). Using OEM goodyear sasquatch tires (315). Icon rebound pro wheels zero offset. sasquatch fender flares. rokblokz mud flaps on day one protect sides. Self labor cost about $450

Other options in a general cost priority:
1) No lift. Add wheel spacers/new wheels as others have said. Some combinations may result in slight rub at extreme compression. Sasquatch set up has a bumpstop that is about 0.4" more to limit travel over the badlands none Sas

2) Add preload collar to your badlands bilstien to level out and create lift about 2 inches total in front. I would use a top hat spacer instead of preload in the back. Everything operates inside of original geometry. Self labor cost under $400

3) Sell your OEM take offs. Go Eibach stage 2 adjustable coil over. Will not need to replace upper control arm and you will have a height adjustable system. Self labor cost about $1500

4) Bilstien 5100 or 6100 shocks. Reuse your springs and top hats. I would prefer the 6100 because they hold alot more fluid and will deal with alot of abuse and is an ugrade in performance. (recover no cost for stock components). Do not need to replace upper control arms. Have height adjustable system. Self labor cost about $2000

5) Jump to next level with remote reservoir. Many options. You talk to King and they will confirm that their coilover will provide about up to 2 inch lift and not require upper control arm replacement. Designed to work with the full range of motion that Ford provides in the control arms. (now your in the self labor $4500 price range)

5) Price goes up from there

I like option 3…

But a salesman at local shop told me that I should get an upgrade control Arm.
Not sure if he’s just trying to up-sale me orI really need it.
Thoughts ?

 

[V1Rotate]

Your thoughts if I went with the Eibach Coilovers 2.0 ?
Would i need an upgraded control arm ?

Most folks are fine with the stock UCA up to around 2” of lift then beyond that it becomes difficult to get a proper alignment as you run out of camber adjustment.

 

[Black Wildtrak Bandit]

Your thoughts if I went with the Eibach Coilovers 2.0 ?
Would i need an upgraded control arm ?

I went with a new UCA and Eibach coilovers which added ~3” of lift all around. It retained the rake, as I use my rig for camping with a RTT and lots of gear in the back. I see no difference in ride quality vs the stock yellow Bilsteins, in fact, it seems to corner even better. I added 37” MT Legend EXPs on 20x10 ICON wheels (-24 offset). After removing the plastic insert on the back of the front wheel wells, I have no rubbing, even off load.

 

[rtaylor]

I’m now moving towards the
Eibach Coilovers stage 2.
Should i consider a new control arm ?
or would I be ok with the stick C. Arm?

Check the adjustment cams on the lower control arms on your bronco. It they are near the center of the adjustment range, then there is probably enough adjustment range left using the stock UCA. This varies for each bronco. If on the other hand they are closer to outer limit of adjustment range, then you might need aftermarket UCA to be able to align to spec (aftermarket UCA is offset by 1 degree, which is approx correction needed for 3" lift). Be sure to have alignment shop use sasquatch specs, even if your bronco was not originally sasquatch.

 

[BroncoVegas19]

Check the adjustment cams on the lower control arms on your bronco. It they are near the center of the adjustment range, then there is probably enough adjustment range left using the stock UCA. This varies for each bronco. If on the other hand they are closer to outer limit of adjustment range, then you might need aftermarket UCA to be able to align to spec (aftermarket UCA is offset by 1 degree, which is approx correction needed for 3" lift). Be sure to have alignment shop use sasquatch specs, even if your bronco was not originally sasquatch.

Check the adjustment cams on the lower control arms on your bronco. It they are near the center of the adjustment range, then there is probably enough adjustment range left using the stock UCA. This varies for each bronco. If on the other hand they are closer to outer limit of adjustment range, then you might need aftermarket UCA to be able to align to spec (aftermarket UCA is offset by 1 degree, which is approx correction needed for 3" lift). Be sure to have alignment shop use sasquatch specs, even if your bronco was not originally sasquatch.

Thank you for this info, really helps me with getting the right set up for my Bronco.

 

[IwannaGOfast]

​

I was wondering how the ride/ performance has been up until now with the springs ?

pros ?
cons ?

I’m very close to pulling the trigger on them, but now a friend mentioned that it might be a good option to do do the Eibach Coilover instead.

Pros
- Shock travel remains the same (no loss or gain).
- Does not over extend travel, no extra stress on joints
- Rides very nice
- Inexpensive

Cons
- Not adjustable

It's perfect for what I needed. I wanted something temporary until I decide to make a much bigger upgrade. This didn't sacrifice ride quality at all.

IMO it looked good with the stock 33's. However looks better when I added the 315/70/17 KO2's

 

[BroncoVegas19]

​

Pros
- Shock travel remains the same (no loss or gain).
- Does not over extend travel, no extra stress on joints
- Rides very nice
- Inexpensive

Cons
- Not adjustable

It's perfect for what I needed. I wanted something temporary until I decide to make a much bigger upgrade. This didn't sacrifice ride quality at all.

IMO it looked good with the stock 33's. However looks better when I added the 315/70/17 KO2's

Yes, definitely looks good!
Thank you for the feedback. It’s great to know the springs keep the same ride experience.

The inability to adjust height in the future is what is making me reconsider the Eibach Coilovers.

thank you again for the reply. Exactly what I was looking for

 

[Mike leggiero]

Base no lift and a black diamond no lift green one 35 12.50 17 maxxis razr at and the black diamond is 315 70 17 bfg just crash bars removed

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