Thank you! That looks great and is very helpful since I also went for the upgraded wheels and race red. Thinking of going with the Toyo A/T 3’s.
Sponsored
Sponsored
34"s the perfect size?
- Thread starter NorthShoreBronco
- Start date
- Watchers 19
I ordered the Toyo AT3 285/75/r17 on KMC Summit wheels with a +18 offset. I also ordered the Zone Offroad 2 inch lift/level. Does anyone know if I'll need to buy a spacer kit too to be able to fit these on a stock Black Diamond? Hopefully both the wheels/tires and the Bronco will be delivered next week; so I just want to make sure I have everything I need.
I figured I'd try and bring this thread back to life before starting a new one
I figured I'd try and bring this thread back to life before starting a new one
Based on the research that I’ve done on here, you shouldn’t even need the 2” lift, let alone the spacers for anything smaller than a 35”.I ordered the Toyo AT3 285/75/r17 on KMC Summit wheels with a +18 offset. I also ordered the Zone Offroad 2 inch lift/level. Does anyone know if I'll need to buy a spacer kit too to be able to fit these on a stock Black Diamond? Hopefully both the wheels/tires and the Bronco will be delivered next week; so I just want to make sure I have everything I need.
I figured I'd try and bring this thread back to life before starting a new one
I ordered the Toyo AT3 285/75/r17 on KMC Summit wheels with a +18 offset. I also ordered the Zone Offroad 2 inch lift/level. Does anyone know if I'll need to buy a spacer kit too to be able to fit these on a stock Black Diamond? Hopefully both the wheels/tires and the Bronco will be delivered next week; so I just want to make sure I have everything I need.
I figured I'd try and bring this thread back to life before starting a new one
You don't even need a lift for 35's on a Base ... if all the parts are chosen properly.
I have 17 x 8.5 +35mm Methods.
35 x 11.5 - 17 Toyo AT3's ... load range C
NO LIFT on my base Base.
NO RUB in any street driving or any huge speed bumps or other flex I could find.
The 285/75 was my first choice, but the back order was forever ... the 35's became available with no warning, I had to jump. I figure I'd deal with the extra .6" of height.
The 11.5 is about .3" wider than a 285 ... a 1/4 or a 1/3 inch ...
Looks great! Did you need to do any cutting to make them fit without rubbing? I also imagine you needed to have the crash bar removed?You don't even need a lift for 35's on a Base ... if all the parts are chosen properly.
I have 17 x 8.5 +35mm Methods.
35 x 11.5 - 17 Toyo AT3's ... load range C
NO LIFT on my base Base.
NO RUB in any street driving or any huge speed bumps or other flex I could find.
The 285/75 was my first choice, but the back order was forever ... the 35's became available with no warning, I had to jump. I figure I'd deal with the extra .6" of height.
The 11.5 is about .3" wider than a 285 ... a 1/4 or a 1/3 inch ...
Sponsored
No cutting. These things were built for 35s.
Crash bars have to be removed with over 33" tires, as I understand it. So yes, they are removed. Two bolts per and they slide right out. The bolts were tight as hell though and not enough room to get my big impact in there. Out came the 1/2" drive sockets long bar.
I have the MOD bumper, so the ends needed to come off to gain room for the front two to slide out. If you have the regular front bumper, it needs to be loosened up enough to get out of the way, then re-installed.
Now, if I were to offroad it and tried to get a tire fully stuffed into the wheel well, there will be rubbing , probably in the wheel well.
As far as wheels, folks have put 35 x 12.5's on factory +55 wheels and there was just a tiny amount of rub on the sway bar at full lock.
My does not rub just sitting. I think I have pics of going lock to lock.
Sway bar visible at the back of the tire in this shot. Full extension...
At ride height:
If I were to lift it, I'd probably go with the ICON 3" lift and level spacer type lift. They did their homework and figured out what is needed to get a no rub, full stuff install.
... or I'd go new coil overs kit. Ford is supposed to have a Fox kit coming.
Great thread here.... I love this pic and how they planned it.
Crash bars have to be removed with over 33" tires, as I understand it. So yes, they are removed. Two bolts per and they slide right out. The bolts were tight as hell though and not enough room to get my big impact in there. Out came the 1/2" drive sockets long bar.
I have the MOD bumper, so the ends needed to come off to gain room for the front two to slide out. If you have the regular front bumper, it needs to be loosened up enough to get out of the way, then re-installed.
Now, if I were to offroad it and tried to get a tire fully stuffed into the wheel well, there will be rubbing , probably in the wheel well.
As far as wheels, folks have put 35 x 12.5's on factory +55 wheels and there was just a tiny amount of rub on the sway bar at full lock.
My does not rub just sitting. I think I have pics of going lock to lock.
Sway bar visible at the back of the tire in this shot. Full extension...
At ride height:
If I were to lift it, I'd probably go with the ICON 3" lift and level spacer type lift. They did their homework and figured out what is needed to get a no rub, full stuff install.
... or I'd go new coil overs kit. Ford is supposed to have a Fox kit coming.
Great thread here.... I love this pic and how they planned it.
Photo below shows the kit installed on a 2-door Base Bronco, non-Sasquatch, at full suspension compression (the coil springs were removed from the struts to allow full compression while checking clearance). The Bronco in the photo was equipped with 35x12.50-17LT Nitto Trail Grapplers mounted on ICON Alloys 17X8.5 Rebound wheels with 25mm offset. With this combination the tires tuck cleanly into the non-Sasquatch flares at full compression, with no rubbing and full steering range.
Last edited:
Thanks for all of the information! I'm waiting on the Ford Performance 2 inch lift; but got the zone 2 inch spacers for now. Last question: did you need a brake light extender or anything like that for the spare tire?No cutting. These things were built for 35s.
Crash bars have to be removed with over 33" tires, as I understand it. So yes, they are removed. Two bolts per and they slide right out. The bolts were tight as hell though and not enough room to get my big impact in there. Out came the 1/2" drive sockets long bar.
I have the MOD bumper, so the ends needed to come off to gain room for the front two to slide out. If you have the regular front bumper, it needs to be loosened up enough to get out of the way, then re-installed.
Now, if I were to offroad it and tried to get a tire fully stuffed into the wheel well, there will be rubbing , probably in the wheel well.
As far as wheels, folks have put 35 x 12.5's on factory +55 wheels and there was just a tiny amount of rub on the sway bar at full lock.
My does not rub just sitting. I think I have pics of going lock to lock.
Sway bar visible at the back of the tire in this shot. Full extension...
At ride height:
If I were to lift it, I'd probably go with the ICON 3" lift and level spacer type lift. They did their homework and figured out what is needed to get a no rub, full stuff install.
... or I'd go new coil overs kit. Ford is supposed to have a Fox kit coming.
Great thread here.... I love this pic and how they planned it.
I do need one mainly because the brake light is probably mostly blocked (shadowed) by the new 35.... but the 35 JUST barely kissed the brake light when I put it on the mount.
I need to get a better pic, you're not the first to ask. What may be key is that, due to the offset and tire width, the inner sidewall is within 4/100ths of the factory 255, 30" tire. It a bunch taller though.
Sponsored
