Adding Stabilizer Bar Disconnect from a Badlands to my Wildtrack

[SPITmadFIRE]

Being an old country mechanic I can’t say for sure. But I’m assuming they are for activation detection. So that the computer can know if the sway bar is connected or disconnected and report the status accordingly with the indicator light on the switch. Also most likely for fault detection - if there is ever a loss of pressure the computer can throw a “SERVICE STABILIZER DISCONNECT SOON” type message.

These pressure sensors are almost certainly for exactly what you say -- determining whether the stabilizer has engaged correctly, or if there are faults. I'd be surprised if they had anything to do with the speed detection, as that's certainly reported over the CAN bus and the module responds by cutting power to the stabilizer as a result.

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[Bikeric]

Great work!! I just looked under my Badlands, but the skid plate doesn’t have a P/N. Here is what it looks like though.

 

[Mobius1]

Everglades snorkel is on the list. I’m saving FordPass points to buy it and estimate I should be there in a month or two.

Then, I can tell everybody I have an “Ever Badtrack” Bronco

But I wouldn’t be the first. There’s already a thread here from somebody else who’s beat me to the Everglades snorkel honor. However - I plan on cutting my own fender and will be sure to do a video diary on that. As I know that is the scariest part of that mod that most folks are worried about (including me). That way, like this disconnect project, others can weigh the costs and difficulty and decide if it’s right for them or not.

Sweet!!!
A WildBadEver. On the to do list also. Keep the posts/videos coming,l.

 

[Figmo]

Great work!! I just looked under my Badlands, but the skid plate doesn’t have a P/N. Here is what it looks like though.

I think I found it: MB3Z5D032A Price is $185 new from Ford. I’ve got one on order and will add to this thread when it arrives.

BTW: looking at your pics - it’s obvious now to me that I REALLY NEED this skid plate!!! I can see where yours has been hit a couple times already.

 

[cbrownabq]

Awsome work man! Seriously thank you!

 

[Strizzo]

do you have the part number for the disconnect?

 

[SWLABRONCO]

You sir are a true shade tree mechanic. Brings back the days under the old pecan tree working with my grandpa on his 77 3/4 ton ford. Loved every minute of it. Thanks for the great post and video.

 

[Figmo]

do you have the part number for the disconnect?

The complete assembly (minus skid plate) is MB3Z5482C

 

[Joeyhansen67]

The complete assembly (minus skid plate) is MB3Z5482C

I have this skid plate, may be spendy to ship to ya
I got the OEM skids off of a badlands, and my big bend doesn't use this one, nore can I mount it without the hydro disconnect

 

[Figmo]

I have this skid plate, may be spendy to ship to ya
I got the OEM skids off of a badlands, and my big bend doesn't use this one, nore can I mount it without the hydro disconnect

Appreciate the offer. I don’t think the disconnect skid would actually be expensive to ship. It’s not that big nor heavy like the front skid. I do a lot of shipping for my job and I’d guess you could ship something like that anywhere in the lower 48 for under $30

However - I have already ordered a new one from Ford. Just waiting for it to get here from Detroit. $185 retail. But with my work discount I got it for $145.

Which seemed like a fair price to me given that all these aftermarket places think a piece of sheet of metal with a couple of bends and a few holes in it is worth $350 - $400.

 

[UTME]

Great job! With the sway disconnected is anything hitting brackets, etc.?

 

[Joeyhansen67]

Appreciate the offer. I don’t think the disconnect skid would actually be expensive to ship. It’s not that big nor heavy like the front skid. I do a lot of shipping for my job and I’d guess you could ship something like that anywhere in the lower 48 for under $30

However - I have already ordered a new one from Ford. Just waiting for it to get here from Detroit. $185 retail. But with my work discount I got it for $145.

Which seemed like a fair price to me given that all these aftermarket places think a piece of sheet of metal with a couple of bends and a few holes in it is worth $350 - $400.

Fair enough. I really liked your video, maybe I'll hold onto it and eventually do the swap too. Where did you end up sourcing a used one?

 

[Figmo]

Great job! With the sway disconnected is anything hitting brackets, etc.?

No interference with anything. I was worried at first about that myself. Maybe something with the HOSS 3.0 that the Badlands didn’t have would be in the way. But doesn’t seem to be an issue.

 

[Figmo]

Fair enough. I really liked your video, maybe I'll hold onto it and eventually do the swap too. Where did you end up sourcing a used one?

Used off eBay. This was the only sub $1K unit on eBay at the time. Everybody else wanted close the cost of a brand new unit. Which I refused to pay (I’d rather spend a couple hundred more and get a new one). I had been periodically checking eBay every couple weeks over the course of about 3 months knowing that I wanted to do this project. Hoping something would surface. So when this one came available - I recognized the value and jumped on it.

 

[sledboy]

Awesome project. Thanks for sharing!!!

I have a Badlands and one of the things that has always bothered me with Ford's implementation of the stabilizer bar disconnect is that it only works in 4-low and 4-high. It does not work in 4-auto or 2-high. I find that an interesting choice by Ford as the Jeep Wrngler Rubicon will allow the sway bar to be disconnected even in 4-auto.

I like the sway bar to be disconnected while travelling on rough dirt roads even when I don't need 4-wheel drive because of the improved ride quality. There is much less side-to-side motion when it is disconnected. Unfortunately, I must always be in 4-wheel drive to disconnect it. It would be nice to be able to disconnect it in 4-auto and even 2-wheel drive.

So my question is this. If I hook my stabilizer bar up the way you did (bypassing the hero switch), will I get constant warnings telling me that I need to service my stabilizer bar? And could it be connected up to the hero button that is already there instead of using an Aux switch?

Thanks for any info!!!

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