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All things Kicker Amps and Audio Electronic and Impacting Sound Quality

ILoveToDrive

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There's a ton of content throughout the various threads, but they tend to "drift" between a lot of topics. I am creating this thread specifically dedicated to the tuning of the Kicker amps. Installations, panel removal, placement, etc...there's already plenty of written and video content. This thread will be dedicated to the variables around tuning the amp...hi-pass filter, gain adjustment, using the DSP tuning, the relationship to Forscan settings, effects with different speakers, etc.
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Thanks because I have a question regarding the Key 500.1 amp. I installed this with a Kicker sub. I ran the remote bass control to the dash but it doesn’t seem to be adjusting the bass. Am I supposed to plug it in to the amp before or after tuning the amp? Any good way to test if the remote is working?
 
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I'm about to replace the kick panel speakers with Focal 6 1/2 ACX 165's. I'm running Kicker 200.4, Polk audio 4" dash, Polk Audio 6 1/2" pods, 6 3/4 4ohm sub with Fusion amp, EQ at 0, Sp/Sp all the way around.

I am going to run the DSP programming. Do I need to use Forscan to turn the EQ back on before doing that? Also, do I need to turn the sub off with Forscan, or can I simply pull the fuse for the sub.

I didn't have good results with the tuned settings before, but the new speakers might change that.
Does using Forscan to go between 00 and 01 for EQ impact the Kicker influence, or just the head unit?
I’ve never been clear on the operational relationship/impact between the head unit, the Kicker, and Forscan.
Also, now that I’ve got a higher quality 2-way speaker going in, what’s the guidance on SP vs SP/TW?
A lot to think about and I’d like to avoid constant tweaking.

@RagnarKon @mpeugeot ...please jump in with any wisdom you can shed on this topic.
 
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FreddieLee

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You guys really need to stop installing coaxial speakers in the kick panels.

The ACM sends low range frequency signals (primarily bass) to the kick panels, which is why the vocals are so muffled, and completely inaudible when you install coaxial speakers there.

Instead, install midbass drivers.

There's some wisdom for ya.
 

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You guys really need to stop installing coaxial speakers in the kick panels.

The ACM sends low range frequency signals (primarily bass) to the kick panels, which is why the vocals are so muffled, and completely inaudible when you install coaxial speakers there.

Instead, install midbass drivers.

There's some wisdom for ya.
That may be true for B&O - not sure

But on standard system the kicks and dash are wired in parallel - the system can’t differentiate between the two. Same signal goes to both.
 

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ILoveToDrive

ILoveToDrive

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You guys really need to stop installing coaxial speakers in the kick panels.

The ACM sends low range frequency signals (primarily bass) to the kick panels, which is why the vocals are so muffled, and completely inaudible when you install coaxial speakers there.

Instead, install midbass drivers.

There's some wisdom for ya.
Thanks. First time I’m hearing this. Any speaker recommendations?
 

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Thanks. First time I’m hearing this. Any speaker recommendations?
Not sure it’s true, I have coax’s in mine and they sound fine - but I don’t have a B&O either.

Now, putting in midwoofers anyway isn’t bad advice - depends on what you think sounds good.
 
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ILoveToDrive

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This is where I get twisted up on how the Sp and TW settings in Forscan play into this. With my current setup, Sp all the way around with EQ at 0, was significantly better in terms of a more balanced sound across the frequency range. Now, with both sets of speakers in the front being 2-way, might Sp/Tw be better? Of course I’m going to test it and report back, but I’m curious what the group wisdom comes up with.

I have yet to find a good explanation of what that setting actually does.
 
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ILoveToDrive

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As per ChatGPT…
The "So or Sp/Tw" setting in Forscan's 727-01-01 configuration specifically controls the audio output through a code that is interpreted by the vehicle's Audio Control Module (ACM). Here's a breakdown of how it works:

1. **Code Interpretation**: Each digit in the Forscan setting corresponds to a specific output configuration. For example, in the setting "727-01-01", specific digits are designated to control whether the speaker, the tweeter, or both are active for the kick panel/dash speakers on each side of the vehicle.

2. **Module Communication**: When you change a setting in Forscan, it communicates with the ACM by rewriting a specific part of the vehicle's firmware or configuration memory. This modification tells the ACM how to route audio signals to the speakers.

3. **Signal Routing**: Based on the configuration, the ACM routes audio signals accordingly:
- If the setting specifies "Speaker", the ACM sends the full-range audio signal to the speaker.
- If it specifies "Tweeter", it sends a high-frequency signal to the tweeter.
- If "Speaker/Tweeter" is chosen, it sends appropriate signals to both, ensuring full-range sound that combines both the low and high frequencies.
- Selecting "No Speaker" cuts the signal to that specific speaker, effectively muting it.

4. **Physical Control**: The ACM uses built-in crossovers or dedicated circuits to separate the audio frequencies for the tweeters and speakers. Tweeters generally handle high frequencies, while the speakers manage the mid to low ranges. The settings ensure that each audio component receives only the frequencies it is designed to handle, which can prevent damage and optimize sound quality.

Essentially, by modifying the 727-01-01 setting in Forscan, you are instructing the ACM to apply these configurations in real-time, tailoring the audio system to your preferences without needing physical modifications to the wiring or outputs. This software control is a powerful tool for customizing vehicle features safely and effectively.

The Forscan settings, when adjusted, influence the factory Audio Control Module (ACM) behavior in Ford vehicles. This includes how audio signals are routed to the speakers, whether certain speakers are enabled or disabled, and possibly the signal’s characteristics (such as which frequencies are emphasized). When using an aftermarket amplifier like the Kicker Key 200.4, which is designed to provide enhanced power and processing to the speakers, the interaction with Forscan settings can be crucial.

Integration with Kicker Key 200.4

The Kicker Key 200.4 is an intelligent amplifier that not only boosts audio power but also features automatic sound processing capabilities like EQ, crossover adjustments, and time alignment. Here’s how Forscan settings might impact the performance of such an amp:

1. Speaker Configuration: If Forscan settings disable certain speakers (like setting “No Speaker”), the Kicker amp won’t receive a signal for these outputs. This means that any speaker not enabled via Forscan won’t benefit from the amplification or sound processing of the Kicker Key 200.4.
2. Signal Quality: Forscan settings that determine the output (such as “Speaker/Tweeter”) can affect the type of signal (full range, high-pass, etc.) sent to the Kicker amp. Since the Kicker Key 200.4 has advanced signal processing, it works best with a full-range input to properly apply its built-in DSP (Digital Signal Processing). Restricting the input signal to only high frequencies (tweeters only) or low frequencies might limit the effectiveness of these processing features.
3. System Balance: By configuring which components are active (speaker, tweeter, both, or none), you influence the overall sound balance and staging in your vehicle. The Kicker amp will then amplify and process whatever signal it receives, but the initial configuration significantly shapes the final output. If the settings in Forscan lead to an unbalanced setup (e.g., tweeters only on one side), the amplifier will still enhance this setup, potentially leading to a skewed audio stage.

Best Practices

To maximize the effectiveness of the Kicker Key 200.4 when integrated with factory systems configured through Forscan, consider the following:

• Ensure Full-Range Signals: Set Forscan to output both speaker and tweeter signals (if applicable) to take full advantage of the Kicker amp’s DSP capabilities.
• Maintain Speaker Activation: Avoid disabling speakers through Forscan that you intend to drive with the Kicker amp. Ensure all intended speakers are active to leverage the full power and processing of the amplifier.
• Consistent Settings: Align the Forscan settings on both sides of the vehicle to maintain a symmetrical and balanced audio output, allowing the Kicker amp to perform optimally across all channels.

By carefully setting up both Forscan and the aftermarket amplifier, you can achieve a high-quality audio experience that takes full advantage of advanced hardware and software adjustments.
 

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FreddieLee

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I'm about to replace the kick panel speakers with Focal 6 1/2 ACX 165's. I'm running Kicker 200.4, Polk audio 4" dash, Polk Audio 6 1/2" pods, 6 3/4 4ohm sub with Fusion amp, EQ at 0, Sp/Sp all the way around.

I am going to run the DSP programming. Do I need to use Forscan to turn the EQ back on before doing that? Also, do I need to turn the sub off with Forscan, or can I simply pull the fuse for the sub.

I didn't have good results with the tuned settings before, but the new speakers might change that.
Does using Forscan to go between 00 and 01 for EQ impact the Kicker influence, or just the head unit?
I’ve never been clear on the operational relationship/impact between the head unit, the Kicker, and Forscan.
Also, now that I’ve got a higher quality 2-way speaker going in, what’s the guidance on SP vs SP/TW?
A lot to think about and I’d like to avoid constant tweaking.

@RagnarKon @mpeugeot ...please jump in with any wisdom you can shed on this topic.
No, do not turn the EQ back on, ever. Leave it at 00. As far as the Forscan tweeter / speaker settings, there's no tangible or audible difference between them. It's a rabbits hole from which there is no return.

For best auto-tune results:

1. Set the factory EQ settings flat.

2. Play pink noise at volume level 25 from a USB thumb drive (super important), not from a phone.

Since the hi-pass filter option cannot be applied independently to the front or rear channels, do not use the hi-pass filter. Since the rear channel is shared with the subwoofer, applying a hi-pass filter will remove bass from the factory subwoofer. For instance, if you applied a 60Hz filter, it will block frequencies below that, and I'm fairly certain that the factory subwoofer can play down to 25Hz.

Once auto-tune is done, the only thing left to do is set the gain levels. Amp 1 is the front channels, and Amp 2 is the rear channels.

1. Play pink noise at volume level 25 from a USB thumb drive.

With 600Hz bass blockers, which is basically transforming your coaxial speaker into a tweeter, you should be able to set the front gain fairly high. Long time, but if memory serves, I was set just beyond the halfway point before clipping was detected.

With 300Hz bass blockers, gain will be lower. With 150Hz, lower, and so on.

Think of gain as how dynamic your speakers can sound as opposed to how loud. Folks tend to overlook the importance of gain matching.

Side note, neutering a 4" coaxial with a bass blocker is one of the reasons why I recommend a 2-way (tweeter, midbass, passive crossover) set-up. The other reason is the ability to use the dash output to power the rear speakers. You lose fader, but you get a rich, full signal to the rear speakers.

No one listens, though. Hard to compete with thousands of posts suggesting to install coaxial speakers everywhere to achieve less than stellar results.
 
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ILoveToDrive

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I found this really interesting so I’m sharing. It’s long but worth the read. I have a multimeter but have no clue what I’m doing. Sometimes you just gotta say “WTF.”(Trivia…what movie is that from?)…


Using a multimeter to set the gain on an amplifier ensures that you are providing the right voltage to the amplifier from your head unit, reducing the risk of distortion. Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to use a multimeter for setting the gain on your car audio amplifier:

Tools Needed

• Digital Multimeter (DMM): Ensure it can read AC voltage.
• Test Tone CD or Audio File: Typically, a 0 dB or -10 dB sine wave tone at 50 Hz or 1 kHz, depending on your speakers (subwoofers or full-range speakers).

Steps to Set the Gain with a Multimeter

1. Configure the Multimeter:
• Set your digital multimeter to measure AC voltage.
• Connect the multimeter probes to the speaker output terminals of the amplifier (red probe to positive, black probe to negative).
2. Play the Test Tone:
• Play the test tone through your audio system at a constant volume. It’s ideal to use the same volume level that you used during the DSP setup (about 75% of maximum volume).
3. Measure Voltage:
• Read the voltage output on the multimeter while the test tone is playing. The voltage you see should ideally not exceed the recommended input voltage for your speakers or the output voltage capacity of your amplifier.
4. Calculate Desired Voltage:
• You can calculate the desired voltage by using the formula: V = \sqrt{P \times R}
• Where V is voltage, P is the power rating of the amplifier in watts, and R is the resistance of the speakers in ohms.
• For example, if your amplifier is 50 watts RMS per channel and is driving a 4-ohm speaker, then V = \sqrt{50 \times 4} = \sqrt{200} = 14.14 volts.
5. Adjust the Gain:
• While the test tone is playing and your multimeter is connected, adjust the gain controls on your amplifier until the multimeter reads the voltage you calculated.
• Adjust slowly to ensure you don’t accidentally send too high a voltage, which could damage the speakers.
6. Recheck Levels:
• After setting the gain, recheck at various volumes to ensure there is no distortion. Adjust as necessary, being cautious not to exceed the calculated voltage.

Additional Tips

• Avoid Max Volume on Head Unit: Do not set the head unit to its maximum volume as this can often lead to signal distortion which the amplifier will then amplify.
• Consider Speaker Sensitivity: The sensitivity of the speakers also plays a role in how loud they will get with given power. Take this into account if your setup seems quieter or louder than expected at the calculated voltage.
• Safety Precautions: Be careful while handling electrical equipment to avoid shorts or damage. Ensure everything is properly insulated.

Using a multimeter for setting gains is an accurate method to ensure that your car audio system performs optimally without distorting, preserving your audio quality and equipment health.

My question to GPT…
What numbers would I use in the bronco with the Kicker key 200.4 , the speakers are 4ohm. The front has 2speakers on the left channel and 2 speakers on the right wired in parallel . The rear speakers are 1 on each channel.

Answer…
To correctly set the gains for your Bronco with the Kicker Key 200.4 amp using a multimeter, we need to first calculate the correct output voltage for each channel based on the amp's power and the speaker configuration. Since the Kicker Key 200.4 typically delivers around 50 watts RMS per channel at 4 ohms, we'll use this for our calculation. However, wiring and speaker configuration will affect these calculations, especially with the front speakers being wired in parallel.

In the scenario you’ve described for your Bronco with a Kicker Key 200.4 amplifier, where the front speakers are wired in parallel and the rear speakers are a standard setup, the calculation for the desired voltage to set your gains will differ between the front and rear channels due to the difference in impedance.

Calculating for Parallel Front Speakers

When speakers are wired in parallel, the total impedance is reduced. For two 4-ohm speakers in parallel, the effective impedance for each front channel is:

R_{\text{total}} = \frac{R_1 \times R_2}{R_1 + R_2} = \frac{4 \times 4}{4 + 4} = 2 \text{ ohms}

Calculating for Rear Speakers

The rear speakers are straightforward as each is 4 ohms, with one speaker per channel.

Voltage Calculations

The Kicker Key 200.4 amplifier provides up to 50 watts RMS per channel. Here’s how you would calculate the voltage for each setup:

Front Channels (2 ohms)

Using the formula V = \sqrt{P \times R} :
V_{\text{front}} = \sqrt{50 \times 2} = \sqrt{100} = 10 \text{ volts}

Rear Channels (4 ohms)

V_{\text{rear}} = \sqrt{50 \times 4} = \sqrt{200} = 14.14 \text{ volts}

Steps to Set the Gain with a Multimeter

1. Configure your multimeter to measure AC voltage.
2. Connect your multimeter to the speaker outputs for one of the front channels.
3. Play a test tone appropriate for setting gains (typically a 50 Hz or 1 kHz sine wave at 0 dB).
4. Adjust the front channel gain on your amplifier until your multimeter reads around 10 volts.
5. Repeat the process for the rear channels, adjusting until the multimeter reads about 14.14 volts.
6. Ensure all connections are secure, and there is no distortion at high volumes.

Additional Considerations

• Be cautious with volume levels during this process to avoid damaging your speakers.
• Ensure consistent test tones are used across all channels for accuracy.
• Recheck the sound quality and adjust slightly if necessary, especially if you notice any distortion.

By correctly setting the gains using these calculated voltage values, you ensure that the amplifier outputs are optimized for the connected speaker configuration, providing clear and powerful sound without risking damage to the speakers from over-driving.
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