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Anybody swap a locking rear axle on a base with 3.73?

joss

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I'm trying to debate if this is even worth it. I have had my bronco for about 10 months now and I really enjoy it. I initially ordered it with the sasquatch package, but later removed it because it was a constraint. After thinking a long time (2 days) I decided I wanted to do a bit of a sasquatch clone. I want to purchase full sasquatch takeoffs (oem wheels, and Bilstein suspension). And what good is a sasquatch if it doesnt have lockers?
So I'm scouring through the internet and see ARB lockers and such but I want to go the whole way through, to upgrade from my M190 to the M210 (or whichever gives me a locker (sasquatch axles are M220 right?) I havent done deep research on the gearing either).
Anyway, I was thinking about sourcing my rear axle from a Big Bend or Black Diamond with 2.7's because I think those are the only 2 you can get with rear lockers without having to get the sasquatch. If I go through that route, will keeping the front drive unit M190 with the 3.73 gears be a death sentence, or do I have to get an install kit with the same gearing as the rear? Do I go for the locking 4.27 off a big bend, or 4.46 from a black diamond? Other than that I'm sure I can get the hero switch off the same place I get the rear axle, and Ford sells an E-locker wiring harness.
Thanks for yalls input.
I do have a black diamond on order scheduled to be built in September with the 2.7 and rear locker, but i really like how cheap my base is, and I dont think the black diamond is $13k better than mine.
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kodiakisland

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Where in TX are you? Interested in a set of 4.46 axles with locking rear off a Black Diamond?
Gears have to be the same front and rear. Wired to a hero switch is an endeavor, much easier on an aux switch. Will need Procal tune when changing gears as well.

If you want the M210 and M220, both with lockers, you can buy them new as a set from Lethal Performance in either 4.70 or 4.46 gears.
 
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joss

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Where in TX are you? Interested in a set of 4.46 axles with locking rear off a Black Diamond?
Gears have to be the same front and rear. Wired to a hero switch is an endeavor, much easier on an aux switch. Will need Procal tune when changing gears as well.

If you want the M210 and M220, both with lockers, you can buy them new as a set from Lethal Performance in either 4.70 or 4.46 gears.
Im in south texas (mcallen area), but this was a bit of a future project. but i honestly will be willing to travel depending on price of the axles
 

kodiakisland

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Im in south texas (mcallen area), but this was a bit of a future project. but i honestly will be willing to travel depending on price of the axles

For a future project, I'd really look at Lethal Performance and get the set of axles with lockers, CVs, and Procal in the gear ratio you want as a package. It's all plug and play with the Procal tune.
 
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joss

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For a future project, I'd really look at Lethal Performance and get the set of axles with lockers, CVs, and Procal in the gear ratio you want as a package. It's all plug and play with the Procal tune.
For a future project, I'd really look at Lethal Performance and get the set of axles with lockers, CVs, and Procal in the gear ratio you want as a package. It's all plug and play with the Procal tune.
Anything that's gonna save my wallet some tears LOL
 

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kodiakisland

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Anything that's gonna save my wallet some tears LOL

Yeah, it is pricey, but you get a stronger font axle plus lockers. It's a good investment if you are going to use them.
 

HoosierDaddy

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Absolutely need a plan.
Plan the work, work the plan.

Pick the tire size.
Gear for that.
It all works together as a system.

Front and rear gear ratios MUST match.

M190 = front diff, non-squatch, open

M210 = front diff, Squatch and all Badlands, locked

M220 = rear axle, all
Some M220 are locked , some are not, depending.

If you just want 35's, your best (cheapest) bet may be just getting somebody's Squatch take offs if they are moving to 37"s+.

Front and rear axle/diffs
Shocks, etc

Wire the lockers to switches directly and you have more control of them than a Squatch, which the computer may unlock them as it sees fit.

Are you actually going to wheel the shit out of it?
Then the Dana aftermarket/heavy duty stuff may be the way to go.
 
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joss

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Absolutely need a plan.
Plan the work, work the plan.

Pick the tire size.
Gear for that.
It all works together as a system.

Front and rear gear ratios MUST match.

M190 = front diff, non-squatch, open

M210 = front diff, Squatch and all Badlands, locked

M220 = rear axle, all
Some M220 are locked , some are not, depending.

If you just want 35's, your best (cheapest) bet may be just getting somebody's Squatch take offs if they are moving to 37"s+.

Front and rear axle/diffs
Shocks, etc

Wire the lockers to switches directly and you have more control of them than a Squatch, which the computer may unlock them as it sees fit.

Are you actually going to wheel the shit out of it?
Then the Dana aftermarket/heavy duty stuff may be the way to go.
i was thinking of starting off with 33's. i have no plans of going over 35's, and no hardcore wheeling. just occasional rock shelves, which is why i was looking for rear locker only
 

HoosierDaddy

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which is why i was looking for rear locker only
Except ... it sounds like you have 3.73 gears right now?
Gear ratios must match. There really is no debate on this.

There are no factory locked rear axles with 3.73 that I am aware of.

So, either regear a factory locked rear axle to 3.73 ... which would be silly if you intend on running larger tires offroad.... or swap out both diffs with units that have lower matching ratios.

I'd run the 4.70 with either tire, 33's or 35's.
The 4.7/33/autotrans combo would work REALLY well at highway and crawl speeds and everything in between.

My Badlands Non-Squatch Auto has 4.46 and 33's from the factory. I feel , on the highway , this is still overgeared since the trans is CONSTANTLY looking to get into a high gear, which makes it struggle or gear hunt in hill country.
(JUST finished 2k miles all over Blue Ridge/Appalachia/ region, that high gear hunting tranny was driving me insane)

My Base/Manual/4.46/2.3 has 35's on it now. The gears are too tall for decent take off (launch) and I have to use 5th on the highways as 6th is now absolutely worthless and DESTROYS fuel economy.
33's would have been a much wiser choice for the 4.46's I have.

I urge you to learn from my expensive mistakes.
 

87-Z28

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Totally agree. Can’t go to wrong with the 4.7 gear ratio with auto trans. Great for 33-35s and probably fine for 37s. I also wanted the SAS but couldn’t get it. I will also do this upgrade, m210 front and m220 rear in 4.7. Leathal performance has a kit. If you can do the work yourself not much more expensive than getting SAS from factory, minus wheels and tires off course.

I think this is a “real” upgrade. Many upgrades are mostly just bling but this one has value. You get proper gearing along with both front and rear lockers. Money well spent.

if you are going to do this go with the 4.7 gearing, you will be happier and have more tire size options. I don’t think it is worth the time and cost to do this for the 4.46 gearing.
 
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joss

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Totally agree. Can’t go to wrong with the 4.7 gear ratio with auto trans. Great for 33-35s and probably fine for 37s. I also wanted the SAS but couldn’t get it. I will also do this upgrade, m210 front and m220 rear in 4.7. Leathal performance has a kit. If you can do the work yourself not much more expensive than getting SAS from factory, minus wheels and tires off course.

I think this is a “real” upgrade. Many upgrades are mostly just bling but this one has value. You get proper gearing along with both front and rear lockers. Money well spent.

if you are going to do this go with the 4.7 gearing, you will be happier and have more tire size options. I don’t think it is worth the time and cost to do this for the 4.46 gearing.
i might wnd up going this route. i am a bit mechanically inclined, and love a good challenge
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