Bass blockers in dash really needed?

[SoCalG]

It is on the dash speakers themselves. The stock speaker has a simple RC circuit that I believe acts as a high-pass filter (although admittedly I never measured the capacitor value)—you can see the capacitor attached to the speaker once you pull them out.

There be some filtering on the kick panel as well—not sure.

I dissected my old dash speakers after swapping them out. They each contain a 400mhz bass blocker. the pods in the back use the same speaker part number (same bass blockers built in) but are also filtered by the head unit.

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[fitterhappier]

With the key 200.4 you definitely need blockers in front. I installed ones for 6.5” speakers so as not to block beyond 300 hz

+1. The Key amp will give the dash speakers enough power that they will be driven into distortion if you drive them hard enough - the stock unit will also distort the speakers at high volumes, but that's more amp clipping than anything else. The only time you wouldn't need bass blockers with the Key amp is if you were running bi-amp mode, and then the amp applies some pretty aggressive high-pass filtering to the dash speakers to prevent any bass coming through.

For front dash, I would always recommend bass blockers just to keep things clean up top. Especially if you go aftermarket.

 

[22OBX]

Hey all, I just replaced my rear pod speakers with Polks and had wired in bass blockers from PAC (even though Ford’s software isn’t currently allowing full range to the rear anyway). They sounded like an AM radio and then I realized the PACs are cut off at 1200 hz for 4 ohm speakers (they are advertised as being specific to 4” speakers). So into the trash those bass blockers went. Rear sounds better now (though still not great). Now I’m wondering if I should even use bass blockers in the front. I know most people are blocking at 300 hz, and I will definitely be returning the 1200 hz blockers I have. So no dash install today. Unless…I don’t really need them in the front at all. I’m keeping the factory 6.5 (for now), which I assume have a built-in crossover. Which, if true, would make the bass blockers up front unnecessary, no? If not possibly detrimental?

I posted recently my base system build that could be modified to fit your need. You could use the rear line level feeds that are factory crossed at 300 hz to go into amp 1 on the Key. You can then use that channel to feed all four 4 inch. The Key handles all 4 on 2 channels no problem. Second step would be to feed the full range line level signal from the front to amp2 and power just the kick panel 6.5’s from this and set the crossover to 80hz. You will need to be comfortable with cutting and splicing factory wires.

Turn EQ on, Fader Off, Time Delay On, Noise Compression On and run DSP and you will have good clean distortion free sound, albeit no real bass until you add a sub for <80hz.

 

[Kyukidoeric]

I ran my Skars for a few months before the bass blockers. My opinion is with them, you can turn up the volume more... still sucks, but better sucks than worse sucks. I say either way, but it helps. I got the same as Budget Bronco suggested on his speaker install video on YT.

Hey all, I just replaced my rear pod speakers with Polks and had wired in bass blockers from PAC (even though Ford’s software isn’t currently allowing full range to the rear anyway). They sounded like an AM radio and then I realized the PACs are cut off at 1200 hz for 4 ohm speakers (they are advertised as being specific to 4” speakers). So into the trash those bass blockers went. Rear sounds better now (though still not great). Now I’m wondering if I should even use bass blockers in the front. I know most people are blocking at 300 hz, and I will definitely be returning the 1200 hz blockers I have. So no dash install today. Unless…I don’t really need them in the front at all. I’m keeping the factory 6.5 (for now), which I assume have a built-in crossover. Which, if true, would make the bass blockers up front unnecessary, no? If not possibly detrimental?

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