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Robchavous

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Are bass blockers needed if replacing front dash speakers?

I'm planning to install Kicker KS 4" speakers in the dash / rear pods and put a CompRT 6.75" in the factory sub box with a Fusion amp. Obviously doing the Forscan changes to get power back to the rear.

I've seen some conflicting info on the usefullness of bass blockers in the dash. Just trying to get a consensus on if they are needed with my planned setup.
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Karl_in_Chicago

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Are bass blockers needed if replacing front dash speakers?

I'm planning to install Kicker KS 4" speakers in the dash / rear pods and put a CompRT 6.75" in the factory sub box with a Fusion amp. Obviously doing the Forscan changes to get power back to the rear.

I've seen some conflicting info on the usefullness of bass blockers in the dash. Just trying to get a consensus on if they are needed with my planned setup.
The real question should be what is the range of the speakers and what frequencies are being sent to them? If there's a significant mismatch (in this case typically more low freq than speakers can reproduce) then it may be advisable to address that. In the absence of any type of DSP to adjust the freq's then putting a capacitor (bass blocker) in that circuit may be desirable. Those decisions should flow from the answer to the first question, though.
 

gaaangs

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The real question should be what is the range of the speakers and what frequencies are being sent to them? If there's a significant mismatch (in this case typically more low freq than speakers can reproduce) then it may be advisable to address that. In the absence of any type of DSP to adjust the freq's then putting a capacitor (bass blocker) in that circuit may be desirable. Those decisions should flow from the answer to the first question, though.
I stripped the Ford EQ in forescan and put bass blockers on all of the 4 inch speakers...then I ran the kicker key DSP.

This brings up a good point, should I take the bass blockers off then run the DSP with them off? Will that give me better results than running the DSP with the bass blockers on? Am I overthinking this and just leave it as is?
 

gaaangs

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Are bass blockers needed if replacing front dash speakers?

I'm planning to install Kicker KS 4" speakers in the dash / rear pods and put a CompRT 6.75" in the factory sub box with a Fusion amp. Obviously doing the Forscan changes to get power back to the rear.

I've seen some conflicting info on the usefullness of bass blockers in the dash. Just trying to get a consensus on if they are needed with my planned setup.
You def need either high pass filter on an amp to filter out the low range frequencies or bass blockers.

I've ruined a couple 4 inch Kicker KS speakers bu turning up the volume too louad without them. You're just going to get too much distortion and movement from the surround at higher power levels.
 

Karl_in_Chicago

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I stripped the Ford EQ in forescan and put bass blockers on all of the 4 inch speakers...then I ran the kicker key DSP.

This brings up a good point, should I take the bass blockers off then run the DSP with them off? Will that give me better results than running the DSP with the bass blockers on? Am I overthinking this and just leave it as is?
Yes, you are overthinking it. ;) You should run your listening/correction setup with the speakers as you intend to run them which, in your case, means with the BB's in. HTH.
 

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The factory 4ā€ have capacitors on them. Iā€™m pretty sure the full range gets sent to both the kick panel and the dash without a crossover like in a component setup. I put 300hz bass blockers on the dash speakers.

I plan to run a key 200.4 if it ever comes back in stock. Without running in biamp, itā€™ll group the dash and kick panels together. With the flat forscan change, the kick panels arenā€™t getting enough. I assume (hope) the key 200.4 will EQ the mid bass and give the kick panels some life. I donā€™t want that amped lower signal being played through the dash very much. If I were to run the key in bi-amp mode, Iā€™d hope/expect the key would realize the dash speakers canā€™t play lows well and filter that out on its own, but Iā€™m not certain it does
 
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BroncoHI

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Are bass blockers needed if replacing front dash speakers?

I'm planning to install Kicker KS 4" speakers in the dash / rear pods and put a CompRT 6.75" in the factory sub box with a Fusion amp. Obviously doing the Forscan changes to get power back to the rear.

I've seen some conflicting info on the usefullness of bass blockers in the dash. Just trying to get a consensus on if they are needed with my planned setup.
I've actually done this exact set up except I also put 6 1/2 KS speakers in the kick panels. I didn't use bass blockers or forscan and my stereo sounds plenty good.
 

Karl_in_Chicago

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The factory 4ā€ have capacitors on them. Iā€™m pretty sure the full range gets sent to both the kick panel and the dash without a crossover like in a component setup. I put 300hz bass blockers on the dash speakers.

I plan to run a key 200.4 if it ever comes back in stock. Without running in biamp, itā€™ll group the dash and kick panels together. With the flat forscan change, the kick panels arenā€™t getting enough. I assume (hope) the key 200.4 will EQ the mid bass and give the kick panels some life. I donā€™t want that amped lower signal being played through the dash very much. If I were to run the key in bi-amp mode, Iā€™d hope/expect the key would realize the dash speakers canā€™t play lows well and filter that out on its own, but Iā€™m not certain it does
While it has been confirmed that the factory 4" *dash* speakers have the capacitors this is the first I've heard that the rears do as well. I thought that part of the underwhelming sound delivery to the rear's was the frequency cutoff/shaping done within the head unit (stock, I don't know about the B&O) - which is/was done for a number of reasons but also why those speakers (I thought) did not have the cap's (since they wouldn't have anything to "block").

I'm always willing to learn, though!
 

kevin.gt

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While it has been confirmed that the factory 4" *dash* speakers have the capacitors this is the first I've heard that the rears do as well. I thought that part of the underwhelming sound delivery to the rear's was the frequency cutoff/shaping done within the head unit (stock, I don't know about the B&O) - which is/was done for a number of reasons but also why those speakers (I thought) did not have the cap's (since they wouldn't have anything to "block").

I'm always willing to learn, though!
Honestly I donā€™t know if the rears have caps. I was thinking of the fronts. Iā€™ll see if I can find my factory rears and take a look
 

mC.242

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The factory 4ā€ have capacitors on them. Iā€™m pretty sure the full range gets sent to both the kick panel and the dash without a crossover like in a component setup. I put 300hz bass blockers on the dash speakers.

I plan to run a key 200.4 if it ever comes back in stock. Without running in biamp, itā€™ll group the dash and kick panels together. With the flat forscan change, the kick panels arenā€™t getting enough. I assume (hope) the key 200.4 will EQ the mid bass and give the kick panels some life. I donā€™t want that amped lower signal being played through the dash very much. If I were to run the key in bi-amp mode, Iā€™d hope/expect the key would realize the dash speakers canā€™t play lows well and filter that out on its own, but Iā€™m not certain it does
Is that 300hz at 4 or 8 Ohms?
 

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Running bass to any small driver is not a good thing. Especially since that speaker is producing vocals as well as instruments. Bass blockers(high pass filter)are a good thing. Instead of just a capacitor which provides 6dB of roll off . Try and find some that do a 12dB roll off. You can select one with a little lower frequency so the dash speakers play male vocals well but not deep bass sounds. Also put some low pass filters on the kick panel speakers so they are not adding poor vocals from down under the dash. If you can do the high and low pass with an aftermarket amp with built in crossover or external crossover even better. Then the selected amp channels wonā€™t be wasting power on frequencies you are not wanting drivers to reproduce.
 

Nabor19

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I installed these when I out Kicker DS series speakers in all 6 locations. I installed them just in the front two dash locations. The chart I followed shows 600hz for 4ā€ low powered.

I also installed the Kicker sub and Fusion amp in the factory sub box. I did the Forscan changes to show the rears as Speakers/Tweeters and Sub since the DS has a tweeter built in.

I think it sounds good now, knowing that the amp install etc would be nicer, but much more work.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-M6DDyITJfOB/p_007BB600/Crutchfield-Bass-Blockers-600-Hz-cut-off.html
 

kevin.gt

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Honestly I donā€™t know if the rears have caps. I was thinking of the fronts. Iā€™ll see if I can find my factory rears and take a look
@Karl_in_Chicago front dash and rear pods on my ā€˜22 are the same part number (M2DT-18808-AB) and both have capacitors
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Are bass blockers needed if replacing front dash speakers?

I'm planning to install Kicker KS 4" speakers in the dash / rear pods and put a CompRT 6.75" in the factory sub box with a Fusion amp. Obviously doing the Forscan changes to get power back to the rear.

I've seen some conflicting info on the usefullness of bass blockers in the dash. Just trying to get a consensus on if they are needed with my planned setup.
my stereo sucked 2021 mid sas bd 4dr
co axle alpine deck and pods alpines in kickers and mti tail gate sub
5 channel amp and equalizer yes bass blockers where needed
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