Good enough for me, I'm going to give it a go.I didn't. There was just enough room.
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Good enough for me, I'm going to give it a go.I didn't. There was just enough room.
Just keep in mind if you accidentally separate the inner CV joint, youāll likely have to replace the entire CV axle. If youāre not going to push the axle out, be careful not to pull on the inner CV. I had one separate and even though I was able to get the bearings back in, it never was right after that and I had to replace it. Couldāve been avoided if Iād done a better job of pushing the axle out (an air hammer is a relatively cheap investment if you already have compressed air). Just my 2 cents, donāt want you to end up in the same boat.Good enough for me, I'm going to give it a go.
Thanks for heads up. I know this is a concern, will certainly be paying attention.Just keep in mind if you accidentally separate the inner CV joint, youāll likely have to replace the entire CV axle. If youāre not going to push the axle out, be careful not to pull on the inner CV. I had one separate and even though I was able to get the bearings back in, it never was right after that and I had to replace it. Couldāve been avoided if Iād done a better job of pushing the axle out (an air hammer is a relatively cheap investment if you already have compressed air). Just my 2 cents, donāt want you to end up in the same boat.
Do you mind sharing the videos you found of doing the LCA method? Iāll be doing this tomorrow.Back to my original question. Why would you do it this way IF removing the lower arm bolts from the subframe reduced or eliminates the risk of seperating the CV and you donāt have to break out big bar to pry down on the suspension. IF you are replacing the upper arm I could understand but other than that?
I removed sway bar mounts not links, easy. Mark alignment cams on lowers, loosen from nut side not bolt side. Pretty easy, no hammering.
Both of these. Just remove the sway bar mounts, don't disco from the LCA...no need. You just have to maneuver them a little more, but no biggy.I did it the easy way by MARKING all 4 lower control arm alignment washers (on each side) with the frame, and dropping the LCAās via 2 bolts on each side. Just keep track of bolt and washer position (with relation to the frame) and you will have a great driving Bronco when youāre done.
I have had both of mine off several times and always reuse the oem nut.. Just set to correct torque specsā¦Isn't the nut on the end of the axle a one time use fastener?
I'm curious did you have to drop the swap bar disconnect in order to get the bolts that hold the LCA out? In the videos I've watched using this method the sway bar is removed to allow enough room for the bolts to come out. But all the videos I've seen were on other trims than the badlands and have a traditional sway bar vs the sway bar disconnect mechanism found on the badlands trim. I am looing at adding the RC 1" lift/level to the front and rear of my badlands and I'd prefer to go with removing the lower control route vs taking the knuckle off the UCA and having to worry about pushing the CV axle out of the knuckle and what not. Any tips/feedback would be greatly appreciated.I did it the easy way by MARKING all 4 lower control arm alignment washers (on each side) with the frame, and dropping the LCAās via 2 bolts on each side. Just keep track of bolt and washer position (with relation to the frame) and you will have a great driving Bronco when youāre done.