Best way to remove front shocks?

[Stevdug]

Getting ready to put non sas bilsteins on my base. I have watched several videos showing how to's, and the least popular, but seemingly easiest is to remove the sway bar and lower arm from the subframe and the shock comes right out. Is there any real downside to this vs. removing axle from the hub, disconnect upper control arm and prying like crazy.

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[climb2descend]

I did it be removing the lower arm and swaybar, 2 hrs total for me to swap badlands Bilsteins in the front for me using this method. I've done the other way on my f150 and it was way more time consuming.

 

[dgorsett]

I removed sway bar mounts not links, easy. Mark alignment cams on lowers, loosen from nut side not bolt side. Pretty easy, no hammering.

 

[Bikeric]

I did it the easy way by MARKING all 4 lower control arm alignment washers (on each side) with the frame, and dropping the LCA’s via 2 bolts on each side. Just keep track of bolt and washer position (with relation to the frame) and you will have a great driving Bronco when you’re done.

 

[dgorsett]

I did it the easy way by MARKING all 4 lower control arm alignment washers (on each side) with the frame, and dropping the LCA’s via 2 bolts on each side. Just keep track of bolt and washer position (with relation to the frame) and you will have a great driving Bronco when you’re done.

Exactly

 

[chtucker]

[

I did it the easy way by MARKING all 4 lower control arm alignment washers (on each side) with the frame, and dropping the LCA’s via 2 bolts on each side. Just keep track of bolt and washer position (with relation to the frame) and you will have a great driving Bronco when you’re done.

Adding lift with changes your suspension geometry, you should get an alignment after swapping stock for SAS. It's close I am sure but not perfect. Under $80 here and in/out in less than an hour

 

[Tricky Dick]

I separate the tie rods and UCAs from the knuckles and let them drop. That's it. No need to touch the CVs or LCAs.

 

[kodiakisland]

Why would you say least popular? That’s the recommended way.

 

[Stevdug]

Thank.you for all the replies, I'm definitely going with the lower control arm bolts.
I asked because most of the videos i found went witth uca separation and popping the axle out from the hub to let the assembly droop and then prying the crap out of the shock assembly. I did my f150 and titan this way and it was a bitch getting the strut out. I think i found two showing the removal of the lca from subframe and thought ok wow that looks MUCH easier, but whats the catch.

 

[Bikeric]

The “catch” is Ford decided to put vertical bolts into the lower control arms. This doubles the replacement time compared to a comparable Toyota front IFS shock. Ford fixed that with the BRaptor, but the majority of us got the shaft.

 

[TNcoupe]

I'm about to tackle the same process and install my 6112s on my Badlands.

 

[PWillette]

I separate the tie rods and UCAs from the knuckles and let them drop. That's it. No need to touch the CVs or LCAs.

So you don't have to separate the drive shaft from the knuckle? Was curious if this was possible but never seen it done.

 

[Rspayde]

I will be under taking this at some point in the next month. Did the prying method when I put Fox's on the ranger. Really helped to have a full sized five foot pry bar and a 300 pound man at my disposal.

 

[Evolkidbell]

I removed the lower arm frame pivot bolts, the swaybar endlinks, and the UCA. The rear pivot bolt didn't come out, as I would have had to pull the swarbar, but it moved enough to make it work. I did not disconnect the CV but was mindful of not over stressing the joints.
If I had an air-chisel, I would have knocked the studs out of the lower mount on the strut. Would have made it way easier to remove. Could have likely gotten it out without disconnecting the lower arm bolts.

 

[Tricky Dick]

So you don't have to separate the drive shaft from the knuckle? Was curious if this was possible but never seen it done.

I didn't. There was just enough room.

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