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Bronco Build for Overlanding

DaveH

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In having the same debate honestly, but it's between the BD and the BL, neither of them squatched. When i get up to the BL, i just don't think i need the sway disco or heavier front diff and i like the interior of the BD much better. In trying to keep it lighter for efficiency asbwell. If i know i can add 33s to the BD and be ok for some overlanding, im stopping there, but at this point i have no idea. It's killing me.
Are there any differences in BD and BL interior besides seat color and accent color (blue vs orange)?
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Just get a Badlands. It has everything you're asking for and more for not much more money.
 

DaveH

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I don't THINK there's a difference other than 10mm of extra lift from either stiffer or longer springs.
I SUSPECT you are correct. :) In which case, I'll likely go BL non-Squatch.
 

5280Bronco

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Are there any differences in BD and BL interior besides seat color and accent color (blue vs orange)?
No... not that I'm aware of. Since I'm sitting in it all the time, i would prefer the two tone seats and the blue accents, but that may change.
 

Efthreeoh

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The issue with any tire is the noise signature changes over time as the rubber heat cycles (increased hardness), the tread depth reduces, and the tread blocks deform due to alignment wear. It's why they make car radios...
 

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It wasn't that long ago that the only things you needed for truck camping (the original name for 'overlanding') were a cooler of beer and a sleeping bag (#2 was optional).

Now folks think they need lockers, sway bar disconnect, 35" tires, a winch, a 2" lift, and a 75:1 crawl ratio to sleep in their truck.
 

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It wasn't that long ago that the only things you needed for truck camping (the original name for 'overlanding') were a cooler of beer and a sleeping bag (#2 was optional).

Now folks think they need lockers, sway bar disconnect, 35" tires, a winch, a 2" lift, and a 75:1 crawl ratio to sleep in their truck.
It wasn't that long ago that the only things you needed for a house was a few branches and leaves.

Now folks think they need doors, windows, and central air to live in their home
 

Silver-Bolt

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My Raptor is on factory 35's. It is far and above the best driving and riding road trip vehicle I have owned. The tall sidewall on the tire soften the ride and quiet the road noise. The negative to 35's is they will hurt fuel economy.
 

AcesandEights

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I really cannot decide to Sasquatch or not my big bend build for using the Bronco as a daily driver + overlanding (long distance road trips in Utah, Colorado, NV, CA, OR, WA... that include driving 10 hours on road then off road).
...

What do you think?
The difference between 33" and 35" tires isn't going to get you over a "road". It might get you over a Hammer trail (probably not going to make a difference there neither), but not anywhere you're really going overlanding. If you're overlanding, you're heavy and your center-of-gravity is askew, which is more of a hindrance than your tire size.

You might check out https://www.softroadingthewest.com/ He takes his Subaru Legacy, without a two-speed t-case or locker more places than most people with real 4-wheel drive.

If you're honest about where you're going and they are "road" trips, you don't need Sasquatch.
 

Ramble_Offroad

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Having been there and done that I’d say you’d be fine with 33’s and a rear locker. Unless you are, or plan to become an advanced offroad enthusiast then you’ll be fine with 33’s.

My suggestion is to buy the truck based on your future needs, and how you plan to drive it. If 90% of your daily activity is pavement & long road trips with some forest service roads mixed in you will be fine with 33’s.

If you planning to replace all the armor, get proper sliders, curious about aftermarket control arms and suspension lifts, then maybe the 35’s would be better.

Also, given what we know about the 4D’s roof weight limits and overall GVWR the Bronco may not be an ideal candidate most RTT’s.

Then there is the “because you want it” factor which will influence us all! Follow your heart! Before we know it life will have slipped by us all and we will be old dayum old to care anymore!!

PEACE.
 

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RBF 1401

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It wasn't that long ago that the only things you needed for truck camping (the original name for 'overlanding') were a cooler of beer and a sleeping bag (#2 was optional).

Now folks think they need lockers, sway bar disconnect, 35" tires, a winch, a 2" lift, and a 75:1 crawl ratio to sleep in their truck.
I can't speak for anyone else, but the forest is getting more and more crowded and I have to go deeper into the woods than I used to if I want to get away from people. You only have to get "almost stuck" and "almost stranded" one time before you start refusing to go too far into the backcountry without a rear locker.
 

DaveH

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No... not that I'm aware of. Since I'm sitting in it all the time, i would prefer the two tone seats and the blue accents, but that may change.
I prefer the BD colors as well, but it isn’t a deciding factor for me.
 
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The move from a Squatch Big Bend to Badlands should be less than $2k. You'd get the much more road friendly 33s and a rig that will take you anywhere you want to go. I'm Badlands 2.7L and definitely no Squatch. People get used to 35s and will tell you're they're fine, but there's no debating that 33s on the road will be a lot better..
For my 2 exact same builds, the BL is $3.5K more than BB + Squatch. So I am paying more money for smaller tires and things I do not need (sway bar disco / front and rear steel bumper that increase vehicle weight).
You say 33s will ride the road a lot better, in which way?


Are you going with the 2.3 or 2.7?
2.3 I think.

Auto.

Also, given what we know about the 4D’s roof weight limits and overall GVWR the Bronco may not be an ideal candidate most RTT’s.

PEACE.
I am getting an ultra light 80 LBS RTT. No problems there.



A lot of people recommend to go BL non squatch, but if I compare a 2.3 Auto with mid package, the BB Squatched is $3.5K less than the BL. Also I am not a fan of the steel everywhere because they add a lot of weight and I am hauling lots of stuff when overlanding.

My ideal build is a BB with 33s and Squatch suspensions + the 4.27 ratio with rear locker + the 4A gear shift but this is not an option on BB. This build does not exist and I don’t like the idea of modifying the vehicle not from the factory.
Removing the 35s from a squatch is also not cool because 4.7 ratio with 33 is not ideal.

Anybody tried back to back the same vehicle with the same tires but one in 33 and one in 35?
 
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Ramble_Offroad

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For my 2 exact same builds, the BL is $3.5K more than BD + Squatch. So I am paying more money for smaller tires and things I do not need (sway bar disco / front and rear steel bumper that increase vehicle weight).
You say 33s will ride the road a lot better, in which way?




2.3 I think.



Auto.


I am getting an ultra light 80 LBS RTT. No problems there.



A lot of people recommend to go BL non squatch, but if I compare a 2.3 Auto with mid package, the BD Squatched is $3.5K less than the BL. Also I am not a fan of the steel everywhere because they add a lot of weight and I am hauling lots of stuff when overlanding.

My ideal build is a BB with 33s and Squatch suspensions + the 4.27 ratio with rear locker + the 4A gear shift but this is not an option on BB. This build does not exist and I don’t like the idea of modifying the vehicle not from the factory.
Removing the 35s from a squatch is also not cool because 4.7 ratio with 33 is not ideal.

Anybody tried back to back the same vehicle with the same tires but one in 33 and one in 35?
If your question is “Do 35’s help roll over rough trails?” I’ll say yes, but not w/o consequence. That said, I plan to Sasquatch my 2D, add proper 35’s & a suspension lift when available. ?
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