Doors off gremlins explained, and an inexpensive DIY solution!

[Bmadda]

Warranty law allows for the replacement of OEM parts with similar non-oem parts. I would say he has a good argument that he simply replaced a faulty OEM circuit with a functioning one.

On that note, OP, did I miss it or did you find the problem (bent bar, corrosion, etc?) Perhaps it is a fault that warranty could fix. I had a "bad" sound module that was simply a bent pin in a harness connector... Yours could be something as simple.

Thanks for the info, though! If this becomes a common problem, a dummy plug with a bar or jumper built-in would be super nice fix.

I really couldn't tell you other than the passenger side doesn't ground. Looking at the connector I don't see a problem, but these are tiny pins and I'm getting old. I'm happy atm w/the solution i have now. Please note I'm not suggesting everybody do what I did. YMMV.

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[Erock]

Loved the humor and thanks for the info.

 

[Bmadda]

Loved the humor and thanks for the info.

Thanx! feels good to bring some knowledge of value to the community! So, for anyone interested, I looked into fashioning a "dummy plug". Seems there was alot of interest in doing it that way, and I agree. Ford doesn't sell just the hard shell connector as a service part, so I had to order front door wiring harnesses (for me ONLY door wiring harnesses). Part #'s are :

LH M2DZ-14631-C

RH M2DZ-14631-G

They aren't cheap per se, but not as bad as I anticipated...$122 per side I think he said? and not backordered, so when I get them, and get time, I will try doing a writeup on how to make your own "dummy plugs".

 

[Bmadda]

Thanx! But it helps having the books. Alldata has always been good for me! I'm lost w/out it!

 

[Blaven]

Took my doors off for the first time today. No issues other than the electrical msg about the doors. I didn't have my seat belt on either when I started it up to move it back into the garage.

 

[Razorback]

Thanx! feels good to bring some knowledge of value to the community! So, for anyone interested, I looked into fashioning a "dummy plug". Seems there was alot of interest in doing it that way, and I agree. Ford doesn't sell just the hard shell connector as a service part, so I had to order front door wiring harnesses (for me ONLY door wiring harnesses). Part #'s are :

LH M2DZ-14631-C

RH M2DZ-14631-G

They aren't cheap per se, but not as bad as I anticipated...$122 per side I think he said? and not backordered, so when I get them, and get time, I will try doing a writeup on how to make your own "dummy plugs".

Any word on setting up dummy plugs?

 

[mcinfantry]

I’d be interested in making/buying them

 

[Bmadda]

Any word on setting up dummy plugs?

I have them. Haven't modded them yet. If you order door harness it comes w/the bulkhead connector in the door jamb (which is probably the whole problem). I was going to add a pin to the empty cavity, rather than scavenge one of the other ones, but got distracted by hoss 3.0 rack programming issues! One thing to note: if you were to take it in under warranty for this issue, you may be able to convince you service dept to order the door harnesses just to get the jamb bulkheads, and give you the remaining harness and connectors to make dummy plugs out of.

 

[fallguy]

I've had the problem. Wouldn't shift into drive, I'm assuming because it thought the door was open, when it was off. Kept saying driver's door open on the dash. Turned off, back on and it was fine.

'22, 2 door

 

[mcinfantry]

Thanx! feels good to bring some knowledge of value to the community! So, for anyone interested, I looked into fashioning a "dummy plug". Seems there was alot of interest in doing it that way, and I agree. Ford doesn't sell just the hard shell connector as a service part, so I had to order front door wiring harnesses (for me ONLY door wiring harnesses). Part #'s are :

LH M2DZ-14631-C

RH M2DZ-14631-G

They aren't cheap per se, but not as bad as I anticipated...$122 per side I think he said? and not backordered, so when I get them, and get time, I will try doing a writeup on how to make your own "dummy plugs".

Can you send me a decent photo of the plug that we need to modify? ? I have an idea of where to get one

 

[Bmadda]

Can you send me a decent photo of the plug that we need to modify? ? I have an idea of where to get one

Ok so here's what I did today. 1st off heres the parts you gotta order

Here's the contents. Definitely wana save this stuff in case you ever need a connector or whatever in the future...you never know. Nice it comes w/the bulkhead w/the weather door. I could see breaking that off someday...nice to have spares.

LOL "get unhinged". Jeeps might be great vehicles, but Broncos are more fun at parties! So 1st you gotta take the rear connector cover off. A zip tie holds the door wiring boot to it, and another zip tie holds the wires inside. Cut those off and three tabs around the wiring exit gotta be gently pried to open it up. It's one piece and folds onto the connector. You will want to save this piece cause the weather door locks onto it to hold the connector in. Next remove the white piece from the connector face. Just snaps up

In the pic above you can see the last cavity on the right is labeled #20. In the door jamb the pins are #7 and #8, but on the door connector they are #18 and #19...well there is no 19...why would there be? But worse there is no hole there, so we gotta make one, its a little tedious, but take your time. I used a piece of vacuum hose on a drill bit to go a little at a time.

I tried finding a matching pin to use for this, but got tired of looking, so I just scavenged the one right next to it. Really doesn't matter which one you use, but this will leave us w/an empty cavity to fill.

Then once I finally got that pin into my newly opened cavity #19, I snipped all the other wires flush (thinking its better to leave the pins in so they keep crap out, and clean the jamb pins when plugged/unplugged. You don't have to do it this way), and I used some epoxy to "pot" the cavities. Just leaving my 2 wires #19 and 18 accessible

Then cut those to a reasonable length, strip, solder, and heat shrink.

Reinstall the white connector face lock, and rear connector cover and one is done. It is worth noting that the pin you moved to cavity 19 won't have a tab to lock it in. I used a little of the epoxy to glue it in. But be careful you don't plug the cavity that the pin has to go in. Make sure you let it cure w/the connector FACE UP. I almost wrecked one of them this way...but I saved it!

The rear connector cover can go on either way, but there is a protrusion that the weather door uses to lock it in. Helpful to have the spare ones handy to look at. If they fit right in the spare, they will fit the vehicle. Side doesn't seem to matter. Next check continuity w/an ohmmeter, if you wish, and apply some dielectric to the connector mating face (optional, but a good idea).

Finally plug and test on vehicle. If you did it right you should be able to sit in the driver's seat w/seatbelt buckled and start the vehicle. The ONLY message you should see on your dash is the one above. That tells you that the door modules recognize the doors are removed.

 

[thenotoriousrob]

The easiest solution would be a very simple software update from Ford where you hit "OK" once after you take the doors off, acknowledging that your removed the doors on purpose and it never shows up again.
This and the "put hands on steering wheel" when I'm driving on a straight road with hands on the wheel is driving me crazy.
Next thing you know I'm going to get an alert telling me my fast food choices aren't acceptable while at a drive thru.

 

[Cobrafang]

CALL ME STUPID QUESTION of the day.

If I look at the door jam side of things you see a shunt on the two pins you are trying to build a dummy plug and to short out. So I am not understanding how the dummy plug you worked on acts any different than when the door plug is pulled out. Other than you are shorting out the two pins in the plug versus allowing the door jam side to short it out by itself? Help me see the stupid in my brain.

I have thought about this some more.....in the door part of the equation there is nothing to hook into the pin you are shorting so your dummy plug is creating a connection that only can exist if the door is not connected. So again. I am completely getting myself confused.

I am going to do a test where I just plug the door wiring harness in without making any jumper modification....more to follow.

 

[Bmadda]

CALL ME STUPID QUESTION of the day.

If I look at the door jam side of things you see a shunt on the two pins you are trying to build a dummy plug and to short out. So I am not understanding how the dummy plug you worked on acts any different than when the door plug is pulled out. Other than you are shorting out the two pins in the plug versus allowing the door jam side to short it out by itself? Help me see the stupid in my brain.

I have thought about this some more.....in the door part of the equation there is nothing to hook into the pin you are shorting so your dummy plug is creating a connection that only can exist if the door is not connected. So again. I am completely getting myself confused.

I am going to do a test where I just plug the door wiring harness in without making any jumper modification....more to follow.

Right...just that that shorting bar is pretty unreliable. When the door is disconnected, that little bar is supposed to short the door removed sense wire to ground. When it works it's no problem, but mine doesn't work reliably. I have tried cleaning it w/emery cloth and a little pocket screwdriver...still gives me problems. I have another 22 that seems to work fine (only took the doors off 1 time, but it worked). if you plug an empty plug in it will go ape w/warnings.

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