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Making the Pinch-Weld ‘disappear’

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Wildtrak
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I'll also be putting on propper rock sliders soon, this is just an aesthetic choice for me. I also don't think you can get the Wurth to chip if you tried, it's pretty gnarly stuff. It's no bedliner.
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Spin’s2022

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Bought some spray-in Bedliner and some blue painter’s tape. The results are fabulous (IMO). The truck looks higher because the painted body isn’t as low. I also coated that big control arm bolt, which will otherwise be a rusty eyesore in a year.

The matte & rough surface of the truck bed liner makes the pinch weld visually disappear under there:

I didn’t want to add weight and cost of rock rails or steps. I’m a not the typical Bronco owner:

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Any concern with moisture being trapped and later causing rust? I’ve read so many conflicting stories of painting or not painting….
 
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SupremoSombrero

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Any concern with moisture being trapped and later causing rust? I’ve read so many conflicting stories of painting or not painting….
You’re only painting one vertical surface. Bedliner issues had to do with water pooling under a horizontal ‘bathtub’ shape.

The matte/textured surface of the bedliner is how the surface visually ‘disappears’.
 

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EL Señor Bronco

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Im looking at doing this myself. Will this work? Part number is WRTH-88909071U

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MnLakeBum

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Im looking at doing this myself. Will this work? Part number is WRTH-88909071U

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Yes. I would do 2-3 coats with whatever dry time they recommend in between coats. Just mask off, solvent wash, and use a maroon or grey scotchbrite on the pinch weld area.
 

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Yes. I would do 2-3 coats with whatever dry time they recommend in between coats. Just mask off, solvent wash, and use a maroon or grey scotchbrite on the pinch weld area.
I did one coat. It's very thick. It's not a coverage advantage.
 

MnLakeBum

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I did one coat. It's very thick. It's not a coverage advantage.
FYI, Almost all rocker guard and undercoating products are solvent based and recommended procedure is to apply light coats and build to desired thickness so you don't get solvent pop.
 

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FYI, Almost all rocker guard and undercoating products are solvent based and recommended procedure is to apply light coats and build to desired thickness so you don't get solvent pop.
Yes, I have spray experience. My experience is with this product in this specific application, after masking the area, is that the first coat bonds too well to the mask material. It must be removed quickly, or it becomes a part of the car now, or it rips off the Wurth. One coat was plenty for me. This isn't covering raw metal. It's already painted. And it's just to hide the look. I'm not worried about it protecting anything. One coat of cheap Krylon probably enough too.
 

Greenie

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Wurth makes good products but aren’t always easy to find. 3M is the most widely used undercoating in professional body shops and their aerosol can version is easy to find., part # 3584 or 8883. It’s recommended to lightly Scotchbrite the area and use a wax and grease remover before application.
Was able to find this locally: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071589/

Would this work?
 

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Black_Stallion13

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I went with the factory rocker panel/pinch weld covers - a little pricey for what they are but very happy with the fit and finish. They match the fender flares and actually connect directly to the plastic cladding in the wheel wells so it looks like they are all kind of one continuous piece when you look up close. These also cover all the way up to just below the bottom of the doors for extra paint protection. The way they are designed seems that water/drainage was taken into consideration and also the simple fact they are plastic is going to be better in the long run vs. the metal pinch covers, IMO.
Ford Bronco Making the Pinch-Weld ‘disappear’ PXL_20221007_205238011

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