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Midland MXT500 wiring assistance

waveform55

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Good morning Bronco fam,

I've inquired on a few threads on this particular forum regarding radio installs and I've settled on my particular setup.

I'm going to be installing the JCR Overhead Molle Panel this weekend to mount my Midland MXT500 to, and I'll be running the wiring for both power and the antenna down the driver side A-pillar. I'll continue the antenna through the grommet in the firewall to the driverside trail sight and mount to the Trailrax trail sight antenna mount.

My question for this particular post is regarding power. After seeing a few threads on this, I'm chewing on a couple of courses of action that I may need to ping ideas for and ask about some technical/electrical help.

I've seen one thread where an internal accessory (I believe it was a forward-facing dash cam) was wired to the fuse box behind the panel directly under the steering column. My first idea would be to run the MXT500 as mentioned and wire it to the fuse box the way that member's dash cam was wired. My electrical wiring knowledge is somewhat limited so is there anything I need to get at an autoshop to prepare for this? This seems like the easiest/most accesible option given the length of the wiring from the radio to the fuse box (if it helps, the wiring for the radio already has an in-line fuse).

Otherwise my next option is to get an extension for the power wire and continue it through the firewall grommet with the antenna cable and wire the radio to the battery (also seemingly simplistic but I'm certain will require additional wiring to extend to the engine compartment -- any pros/cons to this and what should I be looking out for?)

Thanks in advance!
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Figmo

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Word of caution with overhead mounts: keep safety in mind. In event of an accident or rollover, devices hung overhead (fire extinguishers, radios, etc) can become a serious head impact hazard. When you mount it - picture yourself and your passenger weightless with heads flailing around.

Just a heads up

(pun intended)
 

Mattwings

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Do you have aux switches? That makes the wiring process very simple. There are benefits to wiring directly to the battery, first being a reduced likelihood of noise. I would suggest using one of the grounding points under the hood vs. power and ground directly to the battery. Also, make sure you have a fuse near the battery on the positive wire. The downside? If you forget to turn the radio odd, it will draw down your battery.

There are several write ups here and I think a few videos on YouTube of options for tapping switched sources of power at the fuse panel. So far, I have used my aux switches, the radio switched 12V for my fog lights and crossover and wired my amp directly to the battery, utilizing the grommet on the firewall for access to the engine bay.
 
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waveform55

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Do you have aux switches? That makes the wiring process very simple. There are benefits to wiring directly to the battery, first being a reduced likelihood of noise. I would suggest using one of the grounding points under the hood vs. power and ground directly to the battery. Also, make sure you have a fuse near the battery on the positive wire. The downside? If you forget to turn the radio odd, it will draw down your battery.

There are several write ups here and I think a few videos on YouTube of options for tapping switched sources of power at the fuse panel. So far, I have used my aux switches, the radio switched 12V for my fog lights and crossover and wired my amp directly to the battery, utilizing the grommet on the firewall for access to the engine bay.
I do have the aux switches -- I've been on the fence about it, but now that I really think about it...that option has merits.

Currently have Switch 1 for my lightbar, switch 4 for my ditch lights, 5 for my clear fogs and 6 for my amber fogs. I don't have any plans for the other two switches so maybe Switch 3 is a doable option...thanks for that idea!
 

Mattwings

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I do have the aux switches -- I've been on the fence about it, but now that I really think about it...that option has merits.

Currently have Switch 1 for my lightbar, switch 4 for my ditch lights, 5 for my clear fogs and 6 for my amber fogs. I don't have any plans for the other two switches so maybe Switch 3 is a doable option...thanks for that idea!
It’s easy, fused and switched.
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