Midland Radio Clean Install

[Big Pony]

When you say:



Thanks again for the reply. I should buy you a beer.

I did some additional research and learned how I can tap into a fuse. Looks pretty straightforward.

I will look into 32 and 33. Also bought a multimeter to check it as you mentioned.

Midland did ship their wiring, although I'll need to find a matching one since the one they sent needs to be cut and stripped as I'm planning to run it through the vehicle into the glovebox.

You also mentioned you don't have the 360 camera system, so I assume that fuse is empty. Do you use a single fuse tap since it's empty? All of the fuse taps I've seen on Amazon and in YouTube videos have two slots. One for the existing fuse, the other for the new one. Curious if a single fuse tap exists. Although... then you would have to figure out the amperage for that fuse right? For the regular fuse taps, it looks like you need to match the new fuse amperage to the original fuse amperage and you're good to go.

Sorry for all the questions and thinking out loud. I'm really enjoying learning all of this stuff.

@privateer35 - this might help you understand the add-a-fuse concept. It sure helped me with one of my installs. Check it out:




And as far as running the wire through the lid on the engine compartment fuse box, approximate the location of the fuse you’re trying to tap into and drill a small hole on the lid, big enough to use a rubber wire grommet that you can then run the wire through and retain a tight seal. I used this method and have been wheeling and washing my engine bay without problems of water, dust, or dirt intrusion into the fuse box and it looks neat and cleanly installed. I used these grommets from Amazon:

https://a.co/d/0dvSkDs

You can search on the internet about wiring grommets to learn more, but these suggestions should help. Have fun with the install!

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[privateer35]

@privateer35 - this might help you understand the add-a-fuse concept. It sure helped me with one of my installs. Check it out:




And as far as running the wire through the lid on the engine compartment fuse box, approximate the location of the fuse you’re trying to tap into and drill a small hole on the lid, big enough to use a rubber wire grommet that you can then run the wire through and retain a tight seal. I used this method and have been wheeling and washing my engine bay without problems of water, dust, or dirt intrusion into the fuse box and it looks neat and cleanly installed. I used these grommets from Amazon:

https://a.co/d/0dvSkDs

You can search on the internet about wiring grommets to learn more, but these suggestions should help. Have fun with the install!

I appreciate the tip!

I think I've modified my plan a bit after doing research. I think I want to tap into the fusebox located under the steering wheel as it's already exposed and requires no modification of any kind.

 

[vrtical]

Will add here.

Finished installing the Midland MXT275 using the Mountains2Metal above glove box bracket. Currently I have the unit powered on one of the unused fuses under the dash. The unit powers on/off by the handheld, I was hoping to use an accessory on fuse location to at least turn it off but haven't found the right one yet, but I will. I have a bunch of cat5 cable laying around so just ran an extension down to a plug in the cubby hole area, completely hidden. The handheld mount is from Proclip and is removable. External Midland antenna is a 6db.

 

[privateer35]

Will add here.

Finished installing the Midland MXT275 using the Mountains2Metal above glove box bracket. Currently I have the unit powered on one of the unused fuses under the dash. The unit powers on/off by the handheld, I was hoping to use an accessory on fuse location to at least turn it off but haven't found the right one yet, but I will. I have a bunch of cat5 cable laying around so just ran an extension down to a plug in the cubby hole area, completely hidden. The handheld mount is from Proclip and is removable. External Midland antenna is a 6db.

Love it! Awesome stuff.

I took a similar approach. Used an unused fuse under the driver dash and ran the cables to the radio base in the glovebox, held on by velcro.

Waiting on my ProClip mounting bracket for the same exact spot.

I got a similar set of mounting brackets by JCR and they work great.

I'm curious though. I too have DD ditch lights. What did you use to secure them to the underside of the mounting brackets? What I did was took an M6 screw, two washers, and a wing nut to tighten everything down since the screw is no longer in the accessory holes on the cowl. The light is secured to the bracket, however, I can rotate the metal base for the light with a little force. Not a huge deal, but does bug me.

Also, while your radio and ditch lights are on, does your radio generate a crazy amount of static? Mine does, but only when those lights are on. I've read it's the lights giving off electromagnetic frequencies that interfere with the antenna. I've seen you can use ferrite rods to help, but don't know which cables those go on, and they look like they can weigh down the cables themselves.

Will come back here to show my setup!

 

[vrtical]

Love it! Awesome stuff.

I'm curious though. I too have DD ditch lights. What did you use to secure them to the underside of the mounting brackets? What I did was took an M6 screw, two washers, and a wing nut to tighten everything down since the screw is no longer in the accessory holes on the cowl. The light is secured to the bracket, however, I can rotate the metal base for the light with a little force. Not a huge deal, but does bug me.

Also, while your radio and ditch lights are on, does your radio generate a crazy amount of static? Mine does, but only when those lights are on. I've read it's the lights giving off electromagnetic frequencies that interfere with the antenna. I've seen you can use ferrite rods to help, but don't know which cables those go on, and they look like they can weigh down the cables themselves.

Will come back here to show my setup!

These ditch lights came with the bracket and I had them mounted directedly to the cowl. When I added the RCI Off Road brackets which are slotted so the original bracket kit with the lights had a bolt / nut for them. I will have to do some testing if I get any interference, I just latterly finished this. If I run into interference I may be able to take the light cases apart and add aluminum foil to the inner side.

 

[privateer35]

These ditch lights came with the bracket and I had them mounted directedly to the cowl. When I added the RCI Off Road brackets which are slotted so the original bracket kit with the lights had a bolt / nut for them. I will have to do some testing if I get any interference, I just latterly finished this. If I run into interference I may be able to take the light cases apart and add aluminum foil to the inner side.

I will have to double-check my kit too. What did you use to tighten the nut?

Interesting about the aluminum. I will need to research how to negate the static when they're on. Although, probably quite rare when I'll need both at the same time.

 

[vrtical]

I will have to double-check my kit too. What did you use to tighten the nut?

Interesting about the aluminum. I will need to research how to negate the static when they're on. Although, probably quite rare when I'll need both at the same time.

you can put the brackets together first then the light fixture once its bolted down

 

[privateer35]

you can put the brackets together first then the light fixture once its bolted down

Welp. I guess that's true. Thanks!

 

[swooshdave]

I haven't seen anyone use this yet.

https://a.co/d/ejMM7Eu

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