Where did you get this magnetic piece?I used the Pro Clip and the magnetic mic. For the cable end, I ran an Ethernet extension and connector so it plugs in below and to the side of the passenger temp control.
Sponsored
Sponsored
Very Clean Midland MXT575 GMRS Radio Install with Mountains2Metal Bracket and 67 Designs Mic Mount
- First Name
- Dan
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2021
- Threads
- 6
- Messages
- 97
- Reaction score
- 210
- Location
- California
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 Mercedes GLE, 2021 Badlands
- Your Bronco Model
- Badlands
Amazon.
I just got both the magnetic mic mount and the ProClip. Did you need to drill the holes into your ProClip so that the magnetic mic mounts to it properly? I see that the ProClip has two little holes in the middle, but they don't align perfectly with the magnetic mic.I used the Pro Clip and the magnetic mic. For the cable end, I ran an Ethernet extension and connector so it plugs in below and to the side of the passenger temp control.
- First Name
- Dan
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2021
- Threads
- 6
- Messages
- 97
- Reaction score
- 210
- Location
- California
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 Mercedes GLE, 2021 Badlands
- Your Bronco Model
- Badlands
Yes, I had to drill out a hole in the proclip. I used small bolts and nuts from my parts bin to attach them together.
- Banned
- #65
Hi Brandon...This is a great write up. The folks from M2M sent me the link. I have the same 575 radio that you do. Have you had any issues since April with this mount? Has in come loose, problems with the radio, any rattles, etc? Is there anything you would do different? I was going to mount my antenna in the back, but it looks like the front mount is cleaner. I have the Midland whip and it will mount on the driver side. Thanks, DaveI’m pretty particular (ok, anal) about installing items in my vehicle and want as much of a factory look as possible. Because of that, I spent a lot of time (admittedly too much!) redoing this install so I could get to a point that required minimal modifications. Standard install with the M2M bracket requires notching the back of the glove box, which I didn’t want to do and looked for a cleaner way. After a lot of trial and error, I was finally able to get the radio installed with only the relocation of one wire connector. The steps and pictures below outline what I did to get it installed. Sorry, no video. Several steps have been covered by others so I kind of glossed over those (like removing the center console and running the antenna wire). If there is a step that you have a question on or would like more information, please let me know.
First, I’ll start with the links for all the components I used. Some would be optional (mic holder items) and you could do a different way.
Midland
- MXT575 2-Way Radio: https://midlandusa.com/products/mxt575-micromobile®two-way-radio
- MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable: https://midlandusa.com/products/micromobile-mxta24-low-profile-antenna-cable
- MXTA25 3dB Antenna: https://midlandusa.com/collections/...cts/micromobile-mxta25-3db-gain-ghost-antenna
Mountains2Metal
- Radio Bracket: https://mountains2metal.com/under-dash-mount-for-amp-radio-fits-2021-ford-bronco/
- Antenna Bracket: https://mountains2metal.com/BR6LAPAM/
Archetype Racing
- BAM Accessory Mount: https://archetyperacing.com/products/ar-slap-bpm
67 Designs
- Bronco Ball: https://www.67d.com/collections/ford-bronco/products/broncoball-20mm
- Medium Carbon Fiber Arm: https://www.67d.com/products/arm-builder-for-20mm-20mm-ball-sizes
- Magnetic Mic Holder: https://www.67d.com/products/magnet-mic-holder
Innovative Products
Penglin
Home Depot
- 3’ RJ45 Patch Cable: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerc...-CAT6-Ethernet-Cable-White-587528-3/204302080
- ½” Nut: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-13-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Nut-2-Pack-800081/204675171
Ok, on to the install!
Stock M2M Radio bracket. The standard install has the radio attached to the bracket with the front of the radio pointed towards the passenger seat. The radio is long and this causes it to be very difficult to attach the mic extension to the front jack as it is right up against the inside of the dash. The back of the radio hangs down which requires notching the glove box to get it to fit. I found that if you mount the radio sideways, you can just get it too fit between the dash rails above the glove box. To do this required some tweaks to the M2M bracket to get the radio in sideways. Here are the tweaks that are needed.
Tweaks I made to the M2M bracket. These changes allowed me to get the radio installed sideways and ports above the rails so mic and antenna can easily be attached.
Attachment of the radio mount to the M2M Bracket. I did drill and add the 2 screws on the sides. With just the 2 screws in the middle, the bracket had a tendency to bend in the middle where the slots are. With the four screws, it was a very solid mount.
Radio snapped into bracket. The bend in the center of the M2M bracket was to get the radio high enough so the antenna cable and Mic cables to clear the top of the metal dash brackets above the glove box. Turning the radio sideways gives good access to the front and back of the radio for connecting the antenna and Mic cables.
The one connector (yellow) that needs to be moved. I just pried it off the metal bracket and zip tied it up to the left. Hard to see in below picture but, the rounded metal edge at the bottom where the yellow connector was attached, has a very tight clearance with the radio when installed. I put some double sided foam tape along here to prevent rattling.
Getting the radio up inside was the most difficult part. It is a tight fit but, with a little patience it will just slide in place on top of the rails. I had the best luck by pushing it up and towards the passenger fender and then sliding back towards center on top of the other rail. I used the mounting screws from M2M but found when I started to tighten them, the U shaped dash rail started to flatten. I just grabbed some ½” nuts and placed them in the channel of the rail. They were the perfect height for a standoff and placed the bracket just above the ‘U’ rail with the mounting screw passing through the center of them.
I utilized Upfitter switch 2 for power (On BRaptor this is a 15 AMP circuit). I connected Upfitter switch 2 to the White/Orange wire that went into the passenger cabin by glove box and connected it to the power feed on the Radio. I connected the radio ground to the bolt on the firewall in passenger footwell as shown above. For the Antenna, I did like others and ran the cable over to the drivers side, through the firewall grommet and back over to the passenger side. The excess antenna cable I coiled up behind the passenger kick panel. I used the M2M Antenna bracket installed on the passenger mirror mount for the Midland MXTA25 antenna.
For the remote mic connection, I wanted the jack in the center console but wanted a dust cover on it (to protect when unplugged) along with the ability to unplug the cable from the back of the console if/when I have to remove the center console again. I used a Benglin RJ45 panel mount along with a 3’ Cat6 patch cable to the radio.
It was an easy install with just a 15/16" hole needing to be drilled.
For the mic mount, I utilized parts from Archetype Racing, 67 Designs and Magnetic Mic. This setup worked really well at putting the mic in a good position and not blocking buttons or vents.
Since installing, I’ve been on several trail rides with no issues of rattling or mic falling. Very easy to use while on the trail. Thanks to Mountains2Metal and 67 Designs for some great products that made this install very clean and straightforward to do. The BAM from AR gives 3 mount points instead of the 1 from the factory. Easy to install and now I can mount the mic and have my dash cam (or phone) mounted as well. Please let me know if you have any questions on the install or would like to see additional pictures.
Sponsored
OP
OP
- First Name
- Brandon
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2023
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 42
- Reaction score
- 126
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
- Vehicle(s)
- 53 Ford Tractor, 76 Bronco, 03 Ranger, 20 F250
- Your Bronco Model
- Raptor
- Thread starter
- #66
Hi Dave! I've been very happy with this install and have had no issues with the radio or things coming loose. I've owned several Midland radios over the years and they've always been very solid performers. I've been on numerous trail rides with this setup (some pretty rough) and been very pleased with the performance and usability. After my first trail ride there was a very slight rattle from the radio. I reached up inside and slightly bent the M2M bracket a little bit higher and added a longer piece of the foam tape on the bracket (in the Bronco) that is next to the radio. (Didn't want to stick it to the radio). Have had no rattles or squeaks since.
As far as what I'd do differently (besides a bigger piece of foam tape), I don't think there is anything. The Midland Ghost antenna on the front cowl (I did passenger side with the M2M bracket) works very well. I also installed the Rigid ditch lights on the mirrors and they worked well with the M2M antenna bracket.
The mic mount using the 67 Designs arms and mounts have also worked well. Easy to reach and use and holds very steady in the roughest of terrain. I've since added a 67 Designs phone mount as well to do trail recordings with the Bronco Trail App.
Actually, might be one thing I'd do differently. Where I passed the radio antenna through the firewall, I used the grommet for where the clutch rod would go through. I drilled a hole in it and passed the wire through but, it doesn't seal up very well. Do it again, I'd use the grommet above the main wire harness for passing cables through.
Since installing the radio, I've installed the ford brake controller in the recommended spot above the glovebox. Was able to do that with no issues, the radio and bracket are not in the way. I'm also currently in the middle of a (lengthy) install of an onboard air compressor in the back. I was able to run the 6 AWG power cable through the firewall along with the antenna wire and have had no interference. I was a little worried about that.
Looks like you are getting ready to install. Let me know if you have any further questions or need additional pictures.
Last edited:
This is a really nice write up!
Just wanted to throw this out in case someone reading this thread might find it helpful.
Something that’s worked out well for me over the years is to use a leather punch tool to punch the hole in the rubber grommet.
Select the punch size slightly smaller than the diameter of the cable going through it and it’ll seal up perfectly.
If you’re using a cable that’s already got the connector on it, just cut a short vertical slit from the punched hole that allows the connector to pass through it. Once everything is in place it should seal up nicely.
OP
OP
- First Name
- Brandon
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2023
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 42
- Reaction score
- 126
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
- Vehicle(s)
- 53 Ford Tractor, 76 Bronco, 03 Ranger, 20 F250
- Your Bronco Model
- Raptor
- Thread starter
- #68
Great suggestion! Thank you! That would have been a much better way to go then using a drill bit as I did. Looks much nicer and sealed up. Will have to go find a set of the leather punch tools.This is a really nice write up!
Just wanted to throw this out in case someone reading this thread might find it helpful.
Something that’s worked out well for me over the years is to use a leather punch tool to punch the hole in the rubber grommet.
Select the punch size slightly smaller than the diameter of the cable going through it and it’ll seal up perfectly.
If you’re using a cable that’s already got the connector on it, just cut a short vertical slit from the punched hole that allows the connector to pass through it. Once everything is in place it should seal up nicely.
I use one like this. You can find them at any local hardware or craft store.
Another tip is to smear a dab of dielectric grease on the hole after you punch it. Makes feeding the coax, etc… much easier.
- Banned
- #70
hi Brandon,I’m pretty particular (ok, anal) about installing items in my vehicle and want as much of a factory look as possible. Because of that, I spent a lot of time (admittedly too much!) redoing this install so I could get to a point that required minimal modifications. Standard install with the M2M bracket requires notching the back of the glove box, which I didn’t want to do and looked for a cleaner way. After a lot of trial and error, I was finally able to get the radio installed with only the relocation of one wire connector. The steps and pictures below outline what I did to get it installed. Sorry, no video. Several steps have been covered by others so I kind of glossed over those (like removing the center console and running the antenna wire). If there is a step that you have a question on or would like more information, please let me know.
First, I’ll start with the links for all the components I used. Some would be optional (mic holder items) and you could do a different way.
Midland
- MXT575 2-Way Radio: https://midlandusa.com/products/mxt575-micromobile®two-way-radio
- MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable: https://midlandusa.com/products/micromobile-mxta24-low-profile-antenna-cable
- MXTA25 3dB Antenna: https://midlandusa.com/collections/...cts/micromobile-mxta25-3db-gain-ghost-antenna
Mountains2Metal
- Radio Bracket: https://mountains2metal.com/under-dash-mount-for-amp-radio-fits-2021-ford-bronco/
- Antenna Bracket: https://mountains2metal.com/BR6LAPAM/
Archetype Racing
- BAM Accessory Mount: https://archetyperacing.com/products/ar-slap-bpm
67 Designs
- Bronco Ball: https://www.67d.com/collections/ford-bronco/products/broncoball-20mm
- Medium Carbon Fiber Arm: https://www.67d.com/products/arm-builder-for-20mm-20mm-ball-sizes
- Magnetic Mic Holder: https://www.67d.com/products/magnet-mic-holder
Innovative Products
Penglin
Home Depot
- 3’ RJ45 Patch Cable: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerc...-CAT6-Ethernet-Cable-White-587528-3/204302080
- ½” Nut: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-13-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Nut-2-Pack-800081/204675171
Ok, on to the install!
Stock M2M Radio bracket. The standard install has the radio attached to the bracket with the front of the radio pointed towards the passenger seat. The radio is long and this causes it to be very difficult to attach the mic extension to the front jack as it is right up against the inside of the dash. The back of the radio hangs down which requires notching the glove box to get it to fit. I found that if you mount the radio sideways, you can just get it too fit between the dash rails above the glove box. To do this required some tweaks to the M2M bracket to get the radio in sideways. Here are the tweaks that are needed.
Tweaks I made to the M2M bracket. These changes allowed me to get the radio installed sideways and ports above the rails so mic and antenna can easily be attached.
Attachment of the radio mount to the M2M Bracket. I did drill and add the 2 screws on the sides. With just the 2 screws in the middle, the bracket had a tendency to bend in the middle where the slots are. With the four screws, it was a very solid mount.
Radio snapped into bracket. The bend in the center of the M2M bracket was to get the radio high enough so the antenna cable and Mic cables to clear the top of the metal dash brackets above the glove box. Turning the radio sideways gives good access to the front and back of the radio for connecting the antenna and Mic cables.
The one connector (yellow) that needs to be moved. I just pried it off the metal bracket and zip tied it up to the left. Hard to see in below picture but, the rounded metal edge at the bottom where the yellow connector was attached, has a very tight clearance with the radio when installed. I put some double sided foam tape along here to prevent rattling.
Getting the radio up inside was the most difficult part. It is a tight fit but, with a little patience it will just slide in place on top of the rails. I had the best luck by pushing it up and towards the passenger fender and then sliding back towards center on top of the other rail. I used the mounting screws from M2M but found when I started to tighten them, the U shaped dash rail started to flatten. I just grabbed some ½” nuts and placed them in the channel of the rail. They were the perfect height for a standoff and placed the bracket just above the ‘U’ rail with the mounting screw passing through the center of them.
I utilized Upfitter switch 2 for power (On BRaptor this is a 15 AMP circuit). I connected Upfitter switch 2 to the White/Orange wire that went into the passenger cabin by glove box and connected it to the power feed on the Radio. I connected the radio ground to the bolt on the firewall in passenger footwell as shown above. For the Antenna, I did like others and ran the cable over to the drivers side, through the firewall grommet and back over to the passenger side. The excess antenna cable I coiled up behind the passenger kick panel. I used the M2M Antenna bracket installed on the passenger mirror mount for the Midland MXTA25 antenna.
For the remote mic connection, I wanted the jack in the center console but wanted a dust cover on it (to protect when unplugged) along with the ability to unplug the cable from the back of the console if/when I have to remove the center console again. I used a Benglin RJ45 panel mount along with a 3’ Cat6 patch cable to the radio.
It was an easy install with just a 15/16" hole needing to be drilled.
For the mic mount, I utilized parts from Archetype Racing, 67 Designs and Magnetic Mic. This setup worked really well at putting the mic in a good position and not blocking buttons or vents.
Since installing, I’ve been on several trail rides with no issues of rattling or mic falling. Very easy to use while on the trail. Thanks to Mountains2Metal and 67 Designs for some great products that made this install very clean and straightforward to do. The BAM from AR gives 3 mount points instead of the 1 from the factory. Easy to install and now I can mount the mic and have my dash cam (or phone) mounted as well. Please let me know if you have any questions on the install or would like to see additional pictures.
Hi Brandon,I’m pretty particular (ok, anal) about installing items in my vehicle and want as much of a factory look as possible. Because of that, I spent a lot of time (admittedly too much!) redoing this install so I could get to a point that required minimal modifications. Standard install with the M2M bracket requires notching the back of the glove box, which I didn’t want to do and looked for a cleaner way. After a lot of trial and error, I was finally able to get the radio installed with only the relocation of one wire connector. The steps and pictures below outline what I did to get it installed. Sorry, no video. Several steps have been covered by others so I kind of glossed over those (like removing the center console and running the antenna wire). If there is a step that you have a question on or would like more information, please let me know.
First, I’ll start with the links for all the components I used. Some would be optional (mic holder items) and you could do a different way.
Midland
- MXT575 2-Way Radio: https://midlandusa.com/products/mxt575-micromobile®two-way-radio
- MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable: https://midlandusa.com/products/micromobile-mxta24-low-profile-antenna-cable
- MXTA25 3dB Antenna: https://midlandusa.com/collections/...cts/micromobile-mxta25-3db-gain-ghost-antenna
Mountains2Metal
- Radio Bracket: https://mountains2metal.com/under-dash-mount-for-amp-radio-fits-2021-ford-bronco/
- Antenna Bracket: https://mountains2metal.com/BR6LAPAM/
Archetype Racing
- BAM Accessory Mount: https://archetyperacing.com/products/ar-slap-bpm
67 Designs
- Bronco Ball: https://www.67d.com/collections/ford-bronco/products/broncoball-20mm
- Medium Carbon Fiber Arm: https://www.67d.com/products/arm-builder-for-20mm-20mm-ball-sizes
- Magnetic Mic Holder: https://www.67d.com/products/magnet-mic-holder
Innovative Products
Penglin
Home Depot
- 3’ RJ45 Patch Cable: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerc...-CAT6-Ethernet-Cable-White-587528-3/204302080
- ½” Nut: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-13-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Nut-2-Pack-800081/204675171
Ok, on to the install!
Stock M2M Radio bracket. The standard install has the radio attached to the bracket with the front of the radio pointed towards the passenger seat. The radio is long and this causes it to be very difficult to attach the mic extension to the front jack as it is right up against the inside of the dash. The back of the radio hangs down which requires notching the glove box to get it to fit. I found that if you mount the radio sideways, you can just get it too fit between the dash rails above the glove box. To do this required some tweaks to the M2M bracket to get the radio in sideways. Here are the tweaks that are needed.
Tweaks I made to the M2M bracket. These changes allowed me to get the radio installed sideways and ports above the rails so mic and antenna can easily be attached.
Attachment of the radio mount to the M2M Bracket. I did drill and add the 2 screws on the sides. With just the 2 screws in the middle, the bracket had a tendency to bend in the middle where the slots are. With the four screws, it was a very solid mount.
Radio snapped into bracket. The bend in the center of the M2M bracket was to get the radio high enough so the antenna cable and Mic cables to clear the top of the metal dash brackets above the glove box. Turning the radio sideways gives good access to the front and back of the radio for connecting the antenna and Mic cables.
The one connector (yellow) that needs to be moved. I just pried it off the metal bracket and zip tied it up to the left. Hard to see in below picture but, the rounded metal edge at the bottom where the yellow connector was attached, has a very tight clearance with the radio when installed. I put some double sided foam tape along here to prevent rattling.
Getting the radio up inside was the most difficult part. It is a tight fit but, with a little patience it will just slide in place on top of the rails. I had the best luck by pushing it up and towards the passenger fender and then sliding back towards center on top of the other rail. I used the mounting screws from M2M but found when I started to tighten them, the U shaped dash rail started to flatten. I just grabbed some ½” nuts and placed them in the channel of the rail. They were the perfect height for a standoff and placed the bracket just above the ‘U’ rail with the mounting screw passing through the center of them.
I utilized Upfitter switch 2 for power (On BRaptor this is a 15 AMP circuit). I connected Upfitter switch 2 to the White/Orange wire that went into the passenger cabin by glove box and connected it to the power feed on the Radio. I connected the radio ground to the bolt on the firewall in passenger footwell as shown above. For the Antenna, I did like others and ran the cable over to the drivers side, through the firewall grommet and back over to the passenger side. The excess antenna cable I coiled up behind the passenger kick panel. I used the M2M Antenna bracket installed on the passenger mirror mount for the Midland MXTA25 antenna.
For the remote mic connection, I wanted the jack in the center console but wanted a dust cover on it (to protect when unplugged) along with the ability to unplug the cable from the back of the console if/when I have to remove the center console again. I used a Benglin RJ45 panel mount along with a 3’ Cat6 patch cable to the radio.
It was an easy install with just a 15/16" hole needing to be drilled.
For the mic mount, I utilized parts from Archetype Racing, 67 Designs and Magnetic Mic. This setup worked really well at putting the mic in a good position and not blocking buttons or vents.
Since installing, I’ve been on several trail rides with no issues of rattling or mic falling. Very easy to use while on the trail. Thanks to Mountains2Metal and 67 Designs for some great products that made this install very clean and straightforward to do. The BAM from AR gives 3 mount points instead of the 1 from the factory. Easy to install and now I can mount the mic and have my dash cam (or phone) mounted as well. Please let me know if you have any questions on the install or would like to see additional pictures.
Couple more questions. Does the speaker in the Mic work well, or does the radio need an external speaker? How difficult is it to get the console apart to mount the pass through for the mic? Can you stretch the mic cord enough that this is not needed? I had the HVAC section out to install the start/stop eliminator, is there much more to remove after that? Thanks again Dave
Sponsored
OP
OP
- First Name
- Brandon
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2023
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 42
- Reaction score
- 126
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
- Vehicle(s)
- 53 Ford Tractor, 76 Bronco, 03 Ranger, 20 F250
- Your Bronco Model
- Raptor
- Thread starter
- #71
I programmed the MTX575 so that both the Mic speaker and speaker in the radio are enabled. This provides plenty of volume to hear conversations over the radio. I also have the Mic mounted high on the top of the dash which I'm sure helps as well. I'd thought about adding an external speaker before I installed but after using it on several rides, there is no need for an external speaker.
The radio is mounted high enough above the glove box that stretching the mic cable down and to the center console is not really an option. If you want to do that, you can get on amazon a 3' CAT6 extension cable. Plug this into the radio and let the the other end hang out below glove box and connect mic to it.
If you had the HVAC section out, I think that is harder than removing the center console. Center console is pretty easy. (Well, now that I've done it a few times ;-). There is a little trim piece at the bottom of the HVAC controls (right above the front of the center console) that you have to pop off first. Then set the emergency brake and put the selector in neutral (assume you have an automatic). You then have to pry up the leather wrap around the gear selector. Using the trim tool, you pry the base of the leather up at the top and bottom of each side. (So each corner on left and right side). Once pried up, twist it 90 degrees and pull up around the top of selector. (The need for this will be apparent soon)
Then starting at the back of the center console (just in front of center storage container), using a trim tool start prying up the center console. Once the back snaps up, you can then go down the sides and pop the rest of it out. Lift the back up a little ways and you'll see to wires connected. Reach in and unplug these wires. (GOAT knob and gear shift). Slowly lift it up and let the gear selector and leather base slip through the hole. Then you can turn the center console sideways and unplug the USB ports from the front. Then you can remove the center console from the car.
Easy to remove and put the CAT6 jack in. Although, others have just removed the little trim piece under the HVAC controls (the piece first removed for the center console) and installed the jack into this piece. Have to be very careful and put in right spot so that it will clear when reinstalled. Pros, much easier install by removing one piece, also hidden and can't see with it under the HVAC controls. CONS, a bugger to get under and find the jack to plug the mic into! (I did that location before the center console.)
Have fun with your install and let me know if you have any further questions!
The MT doesn’t have it? That’s a bummer. What did you do? Just drill a hole?If you're like me with a MT, no luck, there isn't.But your raptor should be fine.
OP
OP
- First Name
- Brandon
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2023
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 42
- Reaction score
- 126
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
- Vehicle(s)
- 53 Ford Tractor, 76 Bronco, 03 Ranger, 20 F250
- Your Bronco Model
- Raptor
- Thread starter
- #73
Actually, just to the left of the grommet for the clutch is the main harness that goes through the firewall. At the top of that grommet is another hole in the grommet for you to pass your own wires through. You can get the antenna wire and a couple others through it.
I have the 575, did external cat 5 cable on passenger side center console. Mic tackform clip attached to grab handle via ram mount. The 575 is mounted in the center console. I ran the usb power cable from the 575 up to the top of my dash to power my go pro. I mounted a power switch next to the light switches, powered off, no light, powered on, lighted. I ran an extension to the external speaker to the glove box where my external speaker is connected, still trying to figure out if and where I want to mount it. I have a Laird no ground plane gmrs antenna mounted in the rear of my hammer built tail gate reenforcement.
Sponsored
