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graham5david

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I'm not an audio guy but I have the kicker 12" downfire box with the passive radiator and the box you put 2 - 12" speakers in looks tiny in comparison. Are you moving enough air to get decent base out of that setup?
I went with the same setup as you. The down fire kicker is very nice
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Draughon

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One of my favorite tracks to test bass output is "Valley of Lost Souls" on Poison's album Flesh and Blood. It has a bass drop at the end that is unbelievably good! I did have the boost much over half and it made my wife's long move a lot. More than enough output. Remember you have to really push these speakers in an sealed box. I'm used to having ported enclosures. Kick drums on rock songs are awesome with this setup. I'm very glad I ran across this option for two 12's.

This is actually a good subthread (I'm sure there's one already) - I like testing the bass on any number of Black Keys tracks or my personal fave, Killing in the Name by Rage Against the Machine.
 
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Baddieland73

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This is actually a good subthread (I'm sure there's one already) - I like testing the bass on any number of Black Keys tracks or my personal fave, Killing in the Name by Rage Against the Machine.
Hahaha! I will try that track! It's funny.... whenever i upgrade my stereo it seems I forget all my favorite track to test the nuances of my setup. I played Purple Rain this morning and it really shows the 120hz decision is not for all music. AC/DC, for example, sounds amazing as it is. Great highs, excellent drum kick, awesome bass guitar prevent in that song. Purple Rain shows the bleed through of the higher frequency through the subs and i do not approve. Will try to decide on what frequency filter to put on the dash speakers and reset my crossovers to 80hz as that appears to be my sweet spot.

Side note, your mentioning Rage made me remember my favorite from them Wake Up. Will definitely check that one out also. Thanks for the reply! Got my brain working..... šŸ¤¦šŸ»ā€ā™‚ļøšŸ˜‚
 

Draughon

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Three more to try:

AwolNation: Sail
Black Keys: It Ainā€™t Over
Pepper: Butthole Surfers
 
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Ft. Worth Rob

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Damn, that sub setup is like bringing a machine gun to a knife fight with that Key 200.4!
 

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The Kicker Key 200.4 hits hard for such a little amp.
 

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Super cool build! I have been racking my brain trying to decide which speakers to put in ours but get so muddied up with amps what to do, what not to do and like all forums the more I read the more confused I get. I have been looking at the Polks too but don't want to put anything on my tailgate and don't want to lose any (what little) cargo space there is. The speaker pods are a must though for sure IMO. Great build!
You can always give me a call directly and I can explain all your options to you
 

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Anyone with the 12ā€ comprt have ability to do an RTA? I use a cheap Dayton Audio calibrated mic with audiocontrolā€™s mobile tools app, but I think it can work with the built in phone mic too. I built a custom downfiring sealed enclosure for my single 12ā€ comprt with about 0.9 cu ft air space. I had a big spike from 40-60hz and drop off between 80-100hz. About a 10db difference. I ended up adjusting 50hz and 63hz down 7db through my dsp to compensate. Iā€™m assuming it was largely cabin gain, but would love feedback from someone that has the loaded version, or the OPs enclosure thatā€™s relatively smaller per driver.
 

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Big Ferd

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Hi everyone! First post, but I've been here a while. I appreciate all of information here thanks to all of the posts shared by you all. I thought I would share this in hopes I help someone else for a change.

I ordered my '23 Hot Pepper Red High package 4 door Badlands hardtop back on that glorious day in March. I received it in early July. From reading here, I knew my stereo would be less than I good, especially coming from the Hardan Karman in my '20 Ram Rebel that I traded in. (Best stock system I've ever had)

Anyways, I decided on the following setup. (I wanted quality, without breaking the bank)

Highs:

1) Kicker Key 200.4
1b) Hoel PnP harness including speaker level rca extension harness for sub amp, and separate power wire for the Kicker Key
2) Polk DB402 4" for Dash
3) Polk DB652 6.5" for kick panels and new speaker pods
4) Mabett 6.5" speaker pods
5) Metra 72-7302 two sets

Installed the speakers per the multitude of videos on YouTube and used the metra adapters. I also installed the Kicker under the steering wheel location seen on YouTube also, RagnarKon's videos are excellent!!! I set the Kicker Key crossover at 120hz high pass because 80 was a little hard on the dash speakers and I wanted to avoid adding high pass filters to them. I performed the dsp setup provided by the key then dialed up the sensitivity to around "4-5".
the highs are loud, clear, and for the money sound very good!

Lows:

1) Rockford Fosgate ("RF") F2-1200x1 sub amp
2) Two Kicker 12" Comp Shallow 2 ohm subs #48CWRT124
3) T-Spec 3 farad capacitor #1203DDC
4) Tailgate box from EBay vendor "jeepboxpro" They custom made their box to my specs for no additional charge.
5) RF amp wiring kit #575RFK4X
6) T-Spec fuse holder #120VMANL
7) Kicker 200 amp AFS fuse #206AFS200
8) Polyfill for box
9) MTI Acoustics Ford Bronco Amp Rack
10) Rockford Fosgate RFiF2SW bare wire to female rca adapter

I ran the Hoel speaker level sub extension from the harness down the passenger side back to the stock sun location where I installed the MTI Amp Rack holding the capacitor and RF sub amp. I ran the 4 gauge power wire under the rear seats trim that separates them from the cargo area and then down the driver's side through the grommet under the dash to the battery. I used the high pass wire harness that came with the R2-1200x1 and connected it to the RFiF2SW bare wire to rca adapter. This plugged into the Hoel extension I ran down the passenger side earlier. It come with male rca ends.

The power wire from the battery is fused using the t-spec and the kicker 200amp fuse since the Rockford fuse holder was insufficient and maxed at 100amp. I connected the other end to the capacitor (after charging it) and ran another power wire directly from the capacitor to the RF sub amp. I ran separate grounds from the amp and capacitor to nearby bolts with bare metal underneath in that same area.

Ran wire from amp to subs in parallel to give 1ohm load and maximum output from the RF amp. I wound up setting the amp crossover at 120hz low pass, subsonic filter @25, and amp sensitivity to @5-6.

I stuffed some polyfill in the subs box before I loaded it to "trick" the subs into thinking the box was a little larger.

I forgot to mention I ran the included RF bass boost controller cable up the passenger side also and under the dashto install the boost on driver side console for my convenience. It's 18db of adjustment so you can really tune in how much bass you want in any song.

Other than the box on the tailgate, my install looks stock. It does not sound stock though. šŸ˜³šŸ˜‚

Anyways, I hope this helped someone on their journey to a better stereo experience in their beloved Bronco. I will try to answer any questions my ramblings may have brought about. Cheers!

0784591__6e94f562-0d1a-42b5-90d8-8ac148c38fcc-jpeg.jpg
Hi everyone! First post, but I've been here a while. I appreciate all of information here thanks to all of the posts shared by you all. I thought I would share this in hopes I help someone else for a change.

I ordered my '23 Hot Pepper Red High package 4 door Badlands hardtop back on that glorious day in March. I received it in early July. From reading here, I knew my stereo would be less than I good, especially coming from the Hardan Karman in my '20 Ram Rebel that I traded in. (Best stock system I've ever had)

Anyways, I decided on the following setup. (I wanted quality, without breaking the bank)

Highs:

1) Kicker Key 200.4
1b) Hoel PnP harness including speaker level rca extension harness for sub amp, and separate power wire for the Kicker Key
2) Polk DB402 4" for Dash
3) Polk DB652 6.5" for kick panels and new speaker pods
4) Mabett 6.5" speaker pods
5) Metra 72-7302 two sets

Installed the speakers per the multitude of videos on YouTube and used the metra adapters. I also installed the Kicker under the steering wheel location seen on YouTube also, RagnarKon's videos are excellent!!! I set the Kicker Key crossover at 120hz high pass because 80 was a little hard on the dash speakers and I wanted to avoid adding high pass filters to them. I performed the dsp setup provided by the key then dialed up the sensitivity to around "4-5".
the highs are loud, clear, and for the money sound very good!

Lows:

1) Rockford Fosgate ("RF") F2-1200x1 sub amp
2) Two Kicker 12" Comp Shallow 2 ohm subs #48CWRT124
3) T-Spec 3 farad capacitor #1203DDC
4) Tailgate box from EBay vendor "jeepboxpro" They custom made their box to my specs for no additional charge.
5) RF amp wiring kit #575RFK4X
6) T-Spec fuse holder #120VMANL
7) Kicker 200 amp AFS fuse #206AFS200
8) Polyfill for box
9) MTI Acoustics Ford Bronco Amp Rack
10) Rockford Fosgate RFiF2SW bare wire to female rca adapter

I ran the Hoel speaker level sub extension from the harness down the passenger side back to the stock sun location where I installed the MTI Amp Rack holding the capacitor and RF sub amp. I ran the 4 gauge power wire under the rear seats trim that separates them from the cargo area and then down the driver's side through the grommet under the dash to the battery. I used the high pass wire harness that came with the R2-1200x1 and connected it to the RFiF2SW bare wire to rca adapter. This plugged into the Hoel extension I ran down the passenger side earlier. It come with male rca ends.

The power wire from the battery is fused using the t-spec and the kicker 200amp fuse since the Rockford fuse holder was insufficient and maxed at 100amp. I connected the other end to the capacitor (after charging it) and ran another power wire directly from the capacitor to the RF sub amp. I ran separate grounds from the amp and capacitor to nearby bolts with bare metal underneath in that same area.

Ran wire from amp to subs in parallel to give 1ohm load and maximum output from the RF amp. I wound up setting the amp crossover at 120hz low pass, subsonic filter @25, and amp sensitivity to @5-6.

I stuffed some polyfill in the subs box before I loaded it to "trick" the subs into thinking the box was a little larger.

I forgot to mention I ran the included RF bass boost controller cable up the passenger side also and under the dashto install the boost on driver side console for my convenience. It's 18db of adjustment so you can really tune in how much bass you want in any song.

Other than the box on the tailgate, my install looks stock. It does not sound stock though. šŸ˜³šŸ˜‚

Anyways, I hope this helped someone on their journey to a better stereo experience in their beloved Bronco. I will try to answer any questions my ramblings may have brought about. Cheers!

0784591__6e94f562-0d1a-42b5-90d8-8ac148c38fcc-jpeg.jpg
Nice job! But a quick question. I just upgraded my system using the PAC harness. After the install, I noticed that when I reverse my parking sensors don't beep and the ones in the front beep but lower than normal. Did you have anything like that happen or any suggestions on what I should do to fix?
 
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Baddieland73

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Nice job! But a quick question. I just upgraded my system using the PAC harness. After the install, I noticed that when I reverse my parking sensors don't beep and the ones in the front beep but lower than normal. Did you have anything like that happen or any suggestions on what I should do to fix?
I don't have any experience with that harness. I got the version from Hoel that was just plug and play. Maybe someone else can chime in and give you some aid. All of my chimes are as they always were. Hoel definitely made the wiring part super easy. I only had to run power wiring/ground for the amps on my own.
 
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Baddieland73

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Anyone with the 12ā€ comprt have ability to do an RTA? I use a cheap Dayton Audio calibrated mic with audiocontrolā€™s mobile tools app, but I think it can work with the built in phone mic too. I built a custom downfiring sealed enclosure for my single 12ā€ comprt with about 0.9 cu ft air space. I had a big spike from 40-60hz and drop off between 80-100hz. About a 10db difference. I ended up adjusting 50hz and 63hz down 7db through my dsp to compensate. Iā€™m assuming it was largely cabin gain, but would love feedback from someone that has the loaded version, or the OPs enclosure thatā€™s relatively smaller per driver.
I only have dsp that came with the Kicker Key and it did auto setup. My sub is straight amp and it's response is straight forward based on boost knob settings.
 
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Baddieland73

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Another tidbit regarding the sub enclosure I got from eBay. So far speaker performance has been good. My only issue has been with tweaking things and taking sub out a couple of times, the wood screws I used have not held well. The wood seems really soft and I had to bail to the 3-prong nuts with machine screws to hold subs securely. That has worked very well. The size for this box I chose was #10x24 by 5/16 with #10x24 machine screws 1.5inches long.
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