Oil temp gauge not water temp up to 234 degrees?

[Ducati1098]

I am answering this not to continue to banter, but more for those who may stumble on this thread want a better understanding. I agree with you that it is totally ok to follow Ford's recommendation(s), though I would love to see where they say >250°F oil temperatures are normal.

For your questions:

Why was your viscosity so low already with only 1000 miles? Good question and it could be the oil type, it could be the engine break-in that was happening, maybe it was filled with the wrong oil from the factory, and we may never the root cause. With that said, it DID happen and without testing the oil I would have never known. Had I done what nearly everyone else does, I would have left the oil in the engine until the iOLM said to change it thereby stacking 5,000 miles or so on oil that does not meet the minimum viscosity requirements thereby increasing wear during the beginning of the engine's life.

Was it because of the 2.5% fuel dilution? Why did you have 2.5% dilution at 1000 miles already? Another great question. Likely due to the rings not being fully seated, but all DI engines have fuel dilution and the 2.7L is no different even with the introduction of MPI for low-speed use. Again, this was 1,000 highway miles where dilution should be the least. Had I not tested the oil, I would have never known.

Maybe if your oil temperatures actually reached correct operating temperature, you wouldn’t have 2.5% dilution in 1000 miles. How could it not have reached correct operating temperature? It was a road trip from the dealership in Dallas where I bought it to Cheyenne, WY and back to Colorado Springs. It was definitely at operating temperature (though I never saw any temperature above 220°F) for hours without stopping.

Not to argue, but sustained oil temperatures of 250°F or higher are not normal. Temperatures can spike that high under a load, but they will almost always drop down very quickly when the load or condition that caused it is removed. If an engine is frequently running oil temperatures at 250°F or higher, then there is a mechanical problem that should be investigated and resolved.

In all of the vehicles I have owned in my life and it has been dozens, I have never owned one that had oil temperatures even come close to 250°F for any length of time. Perhaps I have been lucky enough to own the unicorn of each model. Who knows...

All good points, all of which are plausible. And to be honest, I really think we both see it the same way.

I just think there is a large disconnect between our understanding of what “operating temperature” means and you seem to be stuck on this sustained value so I just wanted to clear this up..

I never once said that sustained oil temperatures above 250 are normal.

All I stated was that operating oil temperature specifications is 230-260. Operating temperature is a maximum allowable temperature range that it should operate at. This doesn’t mean the vehicle should drive around constantly at these higher temperatures. Temperatures will obviously fluctuate. Like you said, temperatures will spike and then come back down depending on driving conditions.

For example: the 10R60 operating temperature specification is 206-215. That doesn’t mean that it will get that high, or should stay that high. I drive 40 miles one way to work everyday going 80 down the highway and it rarely gets to 185. Same with my engine oil temperatures, they likely don't reach 230-260, nor would I want them to when just driving down a highway.

My original comment to this thread, when the OP asked if getting up to 234 was okay. Me saying 230-260 didn’t imply that it should stay that high, it was just to inform him that being that high temporarily was unlikely to harm anything. It’s highly unlikely that it stayed that high for a long duration as it doesn’t sound like he was just driving down the road.

Maybe I should’ve worded my original statement a little better as not everyone understands what I meant by “operating temperature”

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[GreyZ]

Its funny the guys that never see high oil temps. It means you've never taken your bronco off road.

Everytime I have been on anything other than pavement, the oil temps sit around the 235 range. Running the AC can help since it forces the fans to run and keep it in the 215 range. This has been discussed. With modern synthetic or synthetic blend oils 250 is fine.

The first oil change should be done quickly, thats a different discussion, but hitting 250 oil temp off road is totally fine.

You also shouldn't run a different thickness oil just because you feel like it. 5w30 has been the go to oil viscosity for nearly 30 years now and is that the system is designed for. Maybe don't run toyota 0w-16, but 5W-30 motorcraft oil is going to be totally fine for every Bronco out there.

The bronco's at the off roadeo with the ac off were all sitting in the 240 range with the crawl/stop/crawl/stop pattern and we talked to the guys there and they said thats where these sit all day long and they stopped worrying about it years ago.

 

[Dorf2point0]

But, did you try to run a synthetic 10W40? Oh that’s right, damn Ford didn’t provide a oil pressure screen.. Just try it before your next high heat journey.. After of course you check all the other items we have pointed out.. Turning your AC on to cool the engine, something not right with that.. But, maybe that’s this new Ford design

 

[GreyZ]

But, did you try to run a synthetic 10W40? Oh that’s right, damn Ford didn’t provide a oil pressure screen.. Just try it before your next high heat journey.. After of course you check all the other items we have pointed out.. Turning your AC on to cool the engine, something not right with that.. But, maybe that’s this new Ford design

Ford didn't provide an oil pressure gauge because people would freak out when oil P was 20psi cruising down the highway.

It is a variable pressure pump, so the pressure is controlled by the load on the engine rather than RPM. If you add thicker oil it will just decrease the pressure from the pump to maintain the target oilP. You can hook up a scanner to monitor it, but its regularly in the 20s on the highway.

Jeep 2.0s have the same issue becuase Jeep actually did include a oil P gauge and those motors will regularly cruise at 80mph with 17psi of oil pressure. You should see the forum discussions on that.

Gauges are omitted becuase the general population worries too much when values are outside of "conventional" windows from 50 years ago. Modern materials and fluids are so far advanced from yesteryear.

 

[B22-2023]

I live in Arizona and off-road during summer and have experienced those temps. I did install an oil cooler, and that helped with higher temps.

I’m curious about your oil cooler setup. Mishimoto at one point told me they didn’t have an adapter for the 2.7L but clearly there is. 1) Do you know the Misimoto part number you have and 2) what did you run the cooler lines to, a passive cooler or fan with plates? Thanks!

 

[One more upgrade]

I’m curious about your oil cooler setup. Mishimoto at one point told me they didn’t have an adapter for the 2.7L but clearly there is. 1) Do you know the Misimoto part number you have and 2) what did you run the cooler lines to, a passive cooler or fan with plates? Thanks!

https://www.baxterperformanceusa.co...t-fs-101-bk-cartridge-to-spin-on-adapter.html

The cartridge oil filter was converted to a spin on the regular Mishimoto thermo sandwich, and I believe I went with a 16-row cooler. I now have the high-mount intercooler, so there is more room now, and I may add a fan. I will be having the new Mishimoto radiator installed next week and can let you know how that does when Summer hits. I will see if I can login and pull my original order.

 

[B22-2023]

https://www.baxterperformanceusa.co...t-fs-101-bk-cartridge-to-spin-on-adapter.html

The cartridge oil filter was converted to a spin on the regular Mishimoto thermo sandwich, and I believe I went with a 16-row cooler. I now have the high-mount intercooler, so there is more room now, and I may add a fan. I will be having the new Mishimoto radiator installed next week and can let you know how that does when Summer hits. I will see if I can login and pull my original order.

Thanks this is cool, I can talk to Mishimoto especially now that Baxter was mentioned; I realized a few months ago that combining the two was a solution but was waiting for an all in one package. I’ll just do what you did, awesome. Not ready for the radiator yet but it’s on my list down the line. Thanks and keep rollIng hot! Not too hot.

 

[One more upgrade]

Thanks this is cool, I can talk to Mishimoto especially now that Baxter was mentioned; I realized a few months ago that combining the two was a solution but was waiting for an all in one package. I’ll just do what you did, awesome. Not ready for the radiator yet but it’s on my list down the line. Thanks and keep rollIng hot! Not too hot.

My pleasure. This is exactly what the form is for in my opinion. When its 110 out in the desert. I can run my vehicle pretty hard and keep oil temps of 225 ish.

 

[B22-2023]

I live in Arizona and off-road during summer and have experienced those temps. I did install an oil cooler, and that helped with higher temps.

I asked @Mishimoto to tell us a suggested part number, I’ll post it when I get it. I’ll do the same upgrade (I had high temps grinding in winter CO, will be higher in summer TX/UT).

I think cooling the oil, whether it can take higher peak temps or not, will help reduce temps in that packed engine bay so the combo of plastic, steel, rubber, and aluminum fittings can be less heat stressed = fewer problems/longer life.

 

[Dorf2point0]

I asked @Mishimoto to tell us a suggested part number, I’ll post it when I get it. I’ll do the same upgrade (I had high temps grinding in winter CO, will be higher in summer TX/UT).

I think cooling the oil, whether it can take higher peak temps or not, will help reduce temps in that packed engine bay so the combo of plastic, steel, rubber, and aluminum fittings can be less heat stressed = fewer problems/longer life.

Good idea.. Colorado is “high” condition.. Engine works harder.. High - Heat is worst condition.. We have to do what we can to take care of our Broncos..

 

[dgorsett]

Ford didn't provide an oil pressure gauge because people would freak out when oil P was 20psi cruising down the highway.

It is a variable pressure pump, so the pressure is controlled by the load on the engine rather than RPM. If you add thicker oil it will just decrease the pressure from the pump to maintain the target oilP. You can hook up a scanner to monitor it, but its regularly in the 20s on the highway.

Jeep 2.0s have the same issue becuase Jeep actually did include a oil P gauge and those motors will regularly cruise at 80mph with 17psi of oil pressure. You should see the forum discussions on that.

Gauges are omitted becuase the general population worries too much when values are outside of "conventional" windows from 50 years ago. Modern materials and fluids are so far advanced from yesteryear.

...and op would drop to zero at every ASS causing more angst

 

[Mishimoto]

I asked @Mishimoto to tell us a suggested part number, I’ll post it when I get it. I’ll do the same upgrade (I had high temps grinding in winter CO, will be higher in summer TX/UT).

I think cooling the oil, whether it can take higher peak temps or not, will help reduce temps in that packed engine bay so the combo of plastic, steel, rubber, and aluminum fittings can be less heat stressed = fewer problems/longer life.

Hey @B22-2023 - The part numbers for what you're looking for are MMOP-SPTM22 for our M22 Thermostatic Oil Sandwich Plate and MMSPA-M22 for our Stainless Steel Sandwich Plate Adapter, M22. Hope this helps!

-Josh

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