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On Demand vs Full Time Auto 4x4 - what difference ?

desert_rat

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BDSQACH

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Looking for clarification on this system. Does it provide more of a front & rear locker experience or AWD experience? Or good compromise?

I was wanting to get the Manual Black Diamond without sasquatching it to get the front locker. Since there is no direct front locker option this looks like the best case scenario...

I was trying to save money for new front & rear bumper. (See ARB Bronco bumper for ideas...) And 33... Possibly 35" tires.

Since the Manual Sasquatch is not available on build and price I'm not sure when, if ever, it would be available... Since they are still "testing it". I don't mind waiting; but don't want to wait then be told it's a no go.

I would prefer the larger front axle and was hoping to be able to option it without sasquatching the build. But that looks like a no go.

Yes the Badlands has all that already... But for 6K more and orange accents? Also Black Diamond Sasquatch would run close to 6K more. Just trying to not throw money at to to make it "better".

So... Love to hear what people know about this system. How it works in slow speed crawl type scenarios and higher speed snow/mud type scenarios.

And the build conundrums you are having ?!

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dgorsett

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4A is more an on road intermittent slick spot mode and in no way simulates a locking axle.
 

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Gpscharron

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When I did my BD build (2.7/Auto) there was a $795 difference between Part Time 4X4 and the Advanced Auto TC. The reason I was looking close is I need to flat tow and it looks like only the Part-time can do that, which SUCKS!!
UPDATED: I was right. Read the image to the right. You can use the Advanced!!! Thank God!!

I do not think that is correct. Where did you see that ? That should not make any difference when you flat tow.. Please correct me if I am wrong. I also need to flat tow and plan on getting a BL

Ford Bronco On Demand vs Full Time Auto 4x4 - what difference ? EEEB46CE-F5BC-432D-9101-5775FA18B5AD
 

JesseS

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I do not think that is correct. Where did you see that ? That should not make any difference when you flat tow.. Please correct me if I am wrong. I also need to flat tow and plan on getting a BL
*Corrected* There was no scroll indicator on my screen and I didn't see the last line on the advance which stated it was towable, all good :)
 

Bronco4lyfe85

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So in the most basic layman’s terms it’s standard 4X4 (2H,2L,4L,4H) with an added auto mode that will act similar to traction control but on all 4 tires?
 

ZackDanger

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So in the most basic layman’s terms it’s standard 4X4 (2H,2L,4L,4H) with an added auto mode that will act similar to traction control but on all 4 tires?
2H,4H,4L

4A is basically 2H and then when loss of traction is detected, a clutch plate can engage and disengage 4H incredibly quickly (And allow for a certain amount of slippage, and not be fully locked/engaged into 4H).
 

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Bronco4lyfe85

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2H,4H,4L

4A is basically 2H and then when loss of traction is detected, a clutch plate can engage and disengage 4H incredibly quickly (And allow for a certain amount of slippage, and not be fully locked/engaged into 4H).
Got it, thanks. 3 mode and 4 mode. Might be nice in winter when you don’t want to engage 4X4 when roads are slick but want a little extra backup.
 

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FWIW, I don't see any real benefit of Auto 4WD that switches between 2H and 4H.

4H with a center diff is the the best way. 4H with no center diff is the second best option, but then you get drivetrain bind (but that's not such a terrible thing like some would have you think).

I would love a drivetrain option with a full time 4WD with a 40-60 split that can take go up to 20-80 if need be.

The old full time 6MT 4WD FJ Cruiser had the best drivetrain of the Prado/GX/FJC/4Runner family and it'd be cool if an upcoming Bronco could be optioned as such.
 

da_jokker

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The difference is simple

Part time should never be enabled unless your surface is guaranteed to allow for slippage 100% of the time or you can damage the running gear.

Full time (advanced) allows you to potentially be in 4H the instant you need it, but otherwise not. So it can be used under all possible traction situations.



This is not addressing the gear ratio difference which is another plus.
 

Hkak45

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FWIW, I don't see any real benefit of Auto 4WD that switches between 2H and 4H.

4H with a center diff is the the best way. 4H with no center diff is the second best option, but then you get drivetrain bind (but that's not such a terrible thing like some would have you think).
I agree. Even my truck with no center diff is fine just switching to 4H when it gets slick out. Just need to remember to switch it back to 2H if the road gets better or that binding will give you a mini heart attack lol.
I think of 4A as a tool for people who don’t want to have to remember when it needs to go into 4H or 2H. Just set and forget will be useful for many people here it seems that don’t want to think about what they need to be in.

I will give my .02 cents and say on most normal roads you will not need to be in 4H during the winters depending on where you live. Please please remember that if you are in 4H you are not invincible as ice will still get you no matter how many wheels are pushing. You should not be in 4H above around 55mph. If this is your first 4x4 please educate yourself and review everything. I’ve had to pull out several people from ditches each year and a majority of them were 4x4 suv who thought they could go as fast as they wanted. I have not personally found a time that I needed 4H on during winters driving on normal roads. I have 35’s and a rear locker and that always got me through just fine.
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