Pretty Sure the Dealer Stole my Warranty Money

[CyberOrangeBadlands]

If you went through Granger in would have cost you about half that for the same plan.

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[Grumpy]

When you call Ford FMPP department, ask for that dept email so you can send them a copy of your signed agreement. That might help them going forward with actual proof. Yes after reading the terms and conditions on your agreement don't wait 30 days as you won't be able to cancel. Also keep a date/time and person spoke to record of your communication efforts for a possible dispute claim if it does go past 30 days without resolve.

 

[TangoHunter]

This is why I’ll never pay in full for an extended warranty. Pay the minimum and let them send a bill each month. Keeps the dealer honest that way, at least initially. After a bill or two, pay in full.

 

[cbrenthus]

You are correct. Unfortunately I wasnt aware until after the fact. That was my plan, but I dont want to be out $3200 on this “fake” esp and then out $2400 for the real esp at granger.

I understand, but they are 2 different issues - lets say that the 3200 is complete BS and you'll never get it back and it was stolen, do you still want the ESP? If so, you're best choice is what you noted above. If I were in your position, I would secure the discounted ESP from the provider you mentioned, and see how long it is good for, then I would try to get my money back from the sellling dealer. Once that is complete, I would then buy the ESP from the dealer that cares

FYI, a couple years ago my dad bought a civic and spent 2K on an ESP, about 10%. When he asked me about it I said "it's a honda, you don't need an ESP!!!" and he went and got the ESP money back the next day

 

[omi205]

This is why I’ll never pay in full for an extended warranty. Pay the minimum and let them send a bill each month. Keeps the dealer honest that way, at least initially. After a bill or two, pay in full.

It was looped into the finance.

 

[Buckaroo]

This shouldn’t be a real issue. Your dealer didn’t process it correctly but I’d bet dollars to donuts they’re just sloppy and not dishonest.

 

[760 bronco]

Worst comes to worst you can go down directly and get a full refund. I just did that with another ford vehicle

honestly, I would recommend this, you can find ford dealerships that will sell you ESP at cost. It’s like $2200 bucks if I’m not mistaken. I can look for the links if you need help with it

 

[sklnbnzaz]

Just a couple thoughts....

I noticed that the document you uploaded does not have the dealer signature on it. (Finance person, in my experience, usually signs their part at the same time you do)....

Additionally, on the 5 foot long (sarcasm) sales document, I have always seen any extended warranty, service plans, maintenance plans, trade in, tax, license, down payment etc... itemized on that final document that ultimately ends up representing what was financed. I am voting for a sloppy finance manager more than outright and intentional fraud being committed. (but there are bad apples out there too)... not sure I have the answer you're looking for, but with the paperwork you have in hand and if it is properly itemized, I would think that you have all the ammo you need to get it cleared up. Dealers call customers back in to re-sign paperwork all the time for one reason or another (Something missed, different lender, credit issues etc...) no reason you can't go back in and request the same.

Now... veering off topic a little bit...

I've always slowed down the finance person as they're throwing all these sales pitches, brochures and documents to sign in front of me. They know that by the time you get to them you are likely to be both excited about your purchase, maybe a little sick to your stomach and also just ready to get in your new car and drive it away. This makes it easy for you to miss something and sign away (or buy) something you didn't intend to. I believe strongly that a much higher percentage of people are NOT thinking with their business mind by the time they get called back to finance. Make sure anything that says Dealer Signature has that on it as well when you sign it. If I am not mistaken; in most cases, documents need to be executed by BOTH parties to be valid.

I am sure many of us have had the sales pitch on a warranty or other BS add on that sounds like this.... "If you opt for this extended warranty, service plan etc... I can shave a xx% off your interest and take your 60 month loan to a 63 month loan and your payment will only go up $20 per month. Isn't it worth $20 per month if you have a major issue outside of your 3yr 36000 warranty?"

Good luck and sorry I wandered off topic.

 

[Neps]

If I read your contract correctly you can cancel within 30 days of your signature date (you signed it on 10 Feb) with no penalty, that date is approaching fast.

Send a certified letter / return receipt required to the dealer and the provider listed in the contract stating that you are cancelling the coverage. Send an additional copy of the letter to yourself (keep your copy unopened if needed).

Call the providers listed on your ESP contract and explain that you need to cancel because your dealer has failed to file the warranty paperwork and refused to reply to repeated communications.

The dealer can't just keep your money and the State Attorney's' office and Federal Trade Commision can help to make sure they don't, but you need to cancel before the 30 day period ends unless you're willing to pay a penalty (even if you do pay a penalty you can still obtain the coverage elsewhere and save around $900.00).

"If" you do travel to Chula you can bring a copy of the letter you sent (not your mailed copy). Calmly explain to them that you sent a copy to both parties via certified mail and you are there to make sure it happens since you have not received a return call from them after repeated attempts. Explain that you'd like to resolve this prior to filing complaints with the State of California, The Federal Trade Commission, Local Agencies- and involving your lawyer.

Request that they provide a written confirmation of cancellation and written confirmation of how the refund will be credited prior to leaving the dealer.

If you're looking for a good place for lunch/dinner PM me and I can provide several locations that are enroute. Hey if you gotta make the drive might as well do something enjoyable

Government Site for Complaint Information

California Department of Consumer Complaints

Edit, it appears that CV Ford doesn't care to deal with BBB Complaints BBB Record of CV Ford

 

[omi205]

Just a couple thoughts....

I noticed that the document you uploaded does not have the dealer signature on it. (Finance person, in my experience, usually signs their part at the same time you do)....

Additionally, on the 5 foot long (sarcasm) sales document, I have always seen any extended warranty, service plans, maintenance plans, trade in, tax, license, down payment etc... itemized on that final document that ultimately ends up representing what was financed. I am voting for a sloppy finance manager more than outright and intentional fraud being committed. (but there are bad apples out there too)... not sure I have the answer you're looking for, but with the paperwork you have in hand and if it is properly itemized, I would think that you have all the ammo you need to get it cleared up. Dealers call customers back in to re-sign paperwork all the time for one reason or another (Something missed, different lender, credit issues etc...) no reason you can't go back in and request the same.

Now... veering off topic a little bit...

I've always slowed down the finance person as they're throwing all these sales pitches, brochures and documents to sign in front of me. They know that by the time you get to them you are likely to be both excited about your purchase, maybe a little sick to your stomach and also just ready to get in your new car and drive it away. This makes it easy for you to miss something and sign away (or buy) something you didn't intend to. I believe strongly that a much higher percentage of people are NOT thinking with their business mind by the time they get called back to finance. Make sure anything that says Dealer Signature has that on it as well when you sign it. If I am not mistaken; in most cases, documents need to be executed by BOTH parties to be valid.

I am sure many of us have had the sales pitch on a warranty or other BS add on that sounds like this.... "If you opt for this extended warranty, service plan etc... I can shave a xx% off your interest and take your 60 month loan to a 63 month loan and your payment will only go up $20 per month. Isn't it worth $20 per month if you have a major issue outside of your 3yr 36000 warranty?"

Good luck and sorry I wandered off topic.

Yup...the ESP is on the car finance paperwork. Its one of the additional items...I had a similar situation happen with my Jeep. They canceled it without issue.

 

[omi205]

If I read your contract correctly you can cancel within 30 days of your signature date (you signed it on 10 Feb) with no penalty, that date is approaching fast.

Send a certified letter / return receipt required to the dealer and the provider listed in the contract stating that you are cancelling the coverage. Send an additional copy of the letter to yourself (keep your copy unopened if needed).

Call the providers listed on your ESP contract and explain that you need to cancel because your dealer has failed to file the warranty paperwork and refused to reply to repeated communications.

The dealer can't just keep your money and the State Attorney's' office and Federal Trade Commision can help to make sure they don't, but you need to cancel before the 30 day period ends unless you're willing to pay a penalty (even if you do pay a penalty you can still obtain the coverage elsewhere and save around $900.00).

"If" you do travel to Chula you can bring a copy of the letter you sent (not your mailed copy). Calmly explain to them that you sent a copy to both parties via certified mail and you are there to make sure it happens since you have not received a return call from them after repeated attempts. Explain that you'd like to resolve this prior to filing complaints with the State of California, The Federal Trade Commission, Local Agencies- and involving your lawyer.

Request that they provide a written confirmation of cancellation and written confirmation of how the refund will be credited prior to leaving the dealer.

If you're looking for a good place for lunch/dinner PM me and I can provide several locations that are enroute. Hey if you gotta make the drive might as well do something enjoyable

Government Site for Complaint Information

California Department of Consumer Complaints

Edit, it appears that CV Ford doesn't care to deal with BBB Complaints BBB Record of CV Ford

I will be driving down first thing Saturday. I have a feeling they are going to be difficult about the situation. Primarily because of how they have handled the situation in completely avoiding my calls.

 

[bhb]

IMO ... take a deep breath. You're right to be concerned, but I dont think they stole your money.

Since this is CA, and since CA is the most regulated auto state in the country, and since its on the contract, they would be hard pressed not to process it.

Edit - as a side note, looks like you bought GAP - how much did you put down?

 

[Figmo]

Granger told me “30 days” before I’d see it. Hasn’t been 30 days yet. I’ll be patient. But verify. The warranty is useless now anyway so no rush.

 

[omi205]

IMO ... take a deep breath. You're right to be concerned, but I dont think they stole your money.

Since this is CA, and since CA is the most regulated auto state in the country, and since its on the contract, they would be hard pressed not to process it.

Edit - as a side note, looks like you bought GAP - how much did you put down?

I didnt put much down. $5k. I normally put zero or little down. Ill pay the rest off in larger increments (so overpaying the monthly) before the expiration of the finance. Thats how I normally do it. Why

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