Rusting Bracket Under Dash

[Rydfree]

I have torn into the dash of every brand auto over 20 years and they all can have rust like that , lol.

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[flip]

MB3Z-58045J76-A

Yea, that's going to happen especially for anyone in a humid climate or hot and running A/C for most of the year. No idea why they don't do some sort of lacquer/dip after stamping. Not asking for a zinc, cad, phosphate coating, that would be too expensive, just a simple clean and dip would be nice on stuff that could be visible or would shed if the oxidation got bad enough.

 

[Mikey D]

MB3Z-58045J76-A

Yea, that's going to happen especially for anyone in a humid climate or hot and running A/C for most of the year. No idea why they don't do some sort of lacquer/dip after stamping. Not asking for a zinc, cad, phosphate coating, that would be too expensive, just a simple clean and dip would be nice on stuff that could be visible or would shed if the oxidation got bad enough.

Thanks, Flip for the part number. I'll check it out. I may handle myself. Would like to seal it up prior to attaching amp so I won't have to deal with it in 5 years or so.

 

[flip]

Thanks, Flip for the part number. I'll check it out. I may handle myself. Would like to seal it up prior to attaching amp so I won't have to deal with it in 5 years or so.

If you replace it with new, degrease with lacquer thinner, let dry well then hit with some rattle can paint or clear lacquer. We've seen new vehicles come in with some surface rust and others that are 5 years old that look new. Don't know if the rust is more from a problem in the manufacturing process, supplier, steel or just normal environmental oxidation.

 

[1986Bronco]

There is one guy on the assembly line with " the rusty touch".

Rusty Touch? - The Home Shop Machinist & Machinist's Workshop Magazine's BBS


I'm not weird. Well, kind of. Decades ago I noticed some of the tools that were "borrowed" from my unlocked roller at work were rusting and I was trying to track down the issue for preventative maintenance reasons and came across this. Looked a little deeper and narrowed it down to one guy at work with "the rusty touch". Didn't matter that I coated all my tools a couple of times a year, the ones that were borrowed by this guy started rusting. Replaced the tools in my "borrow from me without asking" cart with some low-brow stuff and fixed both problems (nobody bothered to borrow those tools anymore and the rust).

 

[RHeinz]

I believe all metals oxidize and in many cases this oxide coating forms a protective barrier. This occurs on Aluminum and Stainless Steels. On carbon steel this coating is named rust. Some grades of steel are made to oxidize (rust) which then protects the base metal. You may see this on highway structures.

As a retired mechanical engineer, I would do nothing. The part will no doubt out live all of us. However, I do appreciate your need to take some action. Get some muratic acid (pool supply store or Lowes, Home Depot pool section). Brush it over the rust and it will be gone nearly instantly. Muratic Acid is very dangerous however, but with proper precautions it is a great rust remover on steel. Do not pour it on concrete, always wear face and hand protection, avoid the fumes, and have a running water source handy when using it. Once you have the rust off you will need to paint the part immediately as it will begin oxidizing and be rusty again within an hour.

 

[Mlarv]

Eh, no biggie. Mine was a little rusty too. I just removed the rust and hit it with some paint. I have an MX575 mounted to that bracket.

Got a picture of how you mounted your MXT 575 to it. I have been looking at a better place then behind the glove box.

 

[Mlarv]

I believe all metals oxidize and in many cases this oxide coating forms a protective barrier. This occurs on Aluminum and Stainless Steels. On carbon steel this coating is named rust. Some grades of steel are made to oxidize (rust) which then protects the base metal. You may see this on highway structures.

As a retired mechanical engineer, I would do nothing. The part will no doubt out live all of us. However, I do appreciate your need to take some action. Get some muratic acid (pool supply store or Lowes, Home Depot pool section). Brush it over the rust and it will be gone nearly instantly. Muratic Acid is very dangerous however, but with proper precautions it is a great rust remover on steel. Do not pour it on concrete, always wear face and hand protection, avoid the fumes, and have a running water source handy when using it. Once you have the rust off you will need to paint the part immediately as it will begin oxidizing and be rusty again within an hour.

I would not use Muratic Acid unless you are outside and no other metal is around you. I used this on my garage floor to clean it and do an acid wash before I put down epoxy. Any metal that was left in my garage rusted because of the fumes. Use Corrseal, you brush it on it turns the rust black and allows for paint to be put right over it or just let it stay black.

 

[Mikey D]

There is one guy on the assembly line with " the rusty touch".

Rusty Touch? - The Home Shop Machinist & Machinist's Workshop Magazine's BBS


I'm not weird. Well, kind of. Decades ago I noticed some of the tools that were "borrowed" from my unlocked roller at work were rusting and I was trying to track down the issue for preventative maintenance reasons and came across this. Looked a little deeper and narrowed it down to one guy at work with "the rusty touch". Didn't matter that I coated all my tools a couple of times a year, the ones that were borrowed by this guy started rusting. Replaced the tools in my "borrow from me without asking" cart with some low-brow stuff and fixed both problems (nobody bothered to borrow those tools anymore and the rust).

Not touched enough.

 

[Mikey D]

I believe all metals oxidize and in many cases this oxide coating forms a protective barrier. This occurs on Aluminum and Stainless Steels. On carbon steel this coating is named rust. Some grades of steel are made to oxidize (rust) which then protects the base metal. You may see this on highway structures.

As a retired mechanical engineer, I would do nothing. The part will no doubt out live all of us. However, I do appreciate your need to take some action. Get some muratic acid (pool supply store or Lowes, Home Depot pool section). Brush it over the rust and it will be gone nearly instantly. Muratic Acid is very dangerous however, but with proper precautions it is a great rust remover on steel. Do not pour it on concrete, always wear face and hand protection, avoid the fumes, and have a running water source handy when using it. Once you have the rust off you will need to paint the part immediately as it will begin oxidizing and be rusty again within an hour.

$15 = new one. Would like to save my fingerprints.

 

[BlueWaffle]

$15 = new one. Would like to save my fingerprints.

Whatre you gonna do about all the other unpainted rusty bits up under the dash that would require complete dash removal to replace?

 

[Freebird32]

I used Rustoleum rust converter on a lot of parts after i got my Bronco, followed by black paint. You haven’t looked under your chassis yet? I painted driveshafts, axles, bolts, anything i could see that wasn’t painted and already rusting. On the aluminum castings i used Heavy Duty CorrosionX will also use that on seams and other areas prone to rust. If it makes it last a little longer, great. My 97 F150 still looks good without any rust through. I believe they only warranty rust through, not surface rust, so you are left to your own measures.

 

[Mikey D]

Whatre you gonna do about all the other unpainted rusty bits up under the dash that would require complete dash removal to replace?

Lol. This thread is getting a little wonky.

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