Upgrading Trailing arms… WHY? And which is best?

[Texasgrillchef]

what advantages are there to upgrading the trailing arms?

I have seen trailing arms for $500 and some for $2500. what do the $2500 versions do that $500 doesn’t other then looking cooler?

which ones give you the best bang for the buck?

I currently have a 2023 Badlands, loaded with Sasquatch package. I do have a JCR winch mount on the front with winch. i Also have a rear roof rack with a roam box full of winch gear. i Also have the rock slider powersteps. Other then that no additional external upgrades other then lights.

Sponsored

 

[KermitBronco]

I can't speak to the $2,500 but I do have the $1,900 ones from Camburg. They offer 5% more strength and 10% less weight but 2,000% more cool factor for 90% more money compared to even their own $1,000 TA. YMMV. You can't truly justify them except to say "why not".

If you're not drooping in back too bad, this is probably not a priority upgrade and this is coming form someone who just completed an extensive suspension upgrade journey (posted in Builds). Tie-rod reinforcement or upgraded tie-rods would definitely be my #1 reco followed by some more skidplates and maybe the RCI diff-cover

. Hope this helps.

 

[Bmadda]

I have the Core4x4 ones on mine. They are middle of the road price wise, and use Johnny joints, which can withstand northern weather, and are greasable. They also make a version w/heims but I won't use heims in the climate I live in (they don't hold up if exposed to road salt). The reason I upgraded is to improve rear articulation/flex, which isn't very good on factory bushings. The Core4x4 arms are also VERY beefy, and I have hung them up/bashed them on rocks w/no damage whatsoever. Some of the super expensive ones are alloy/aluminum, which I think is more show than anything, I wouldn't try to save weight in such a critical area!

Agree w/above...probably not a high priority mod!

 

[popo_patty]

Only needed if you’re doing any kind of lift AND are outside of your alignment specs. Having compared CTI scores before and after rear arms on a lifted Bronco (approx 2.5” lift over Sasquatch). The rear arms did not add articulation. Your shocks are the limiting factor. They do allow for “smoother” articulation in a way. They are also stronger but the OEM ones are fairly strong as well. My friend ran OEM arms for awhile. Did the rubicon a few times too, drug em on rocks, no issues.

The only truly noticeable benefit is for relocating the axle after lift. If you’re not lifted or still in spec on pinion angle and alignment after lift you don’t need em. They are cool factor though. Avoid all the overpriced bling. Get something adjustable and made of DOM and call it a day. Metalcloak, core 4x4 and rock jock are the way to go.

 

[popo_patty]

Only needed if you’re doing any kind of lift AND are outside of your alignment specs. Having compared CTI scores before and after rear arms on a lifted Bronco (approx 2.5” lift over Sasquatch). The rear arms did not add articulation. Your shocks are the limiting factor. They do allow for “smoother” articulation in a way. They are also stronger but the OEM ones are fairly strong as well. My friend ran OEM arms for awhile. Did the rubicon a few times too, drug em on rocks, no issues.

The only truly noticeable benefit is for relocating the axle after lift. If you’re not lifted or still in spec on pinion angle and alignment after lift you don’t need em. They are cool factor though. Avoid all the overpriced bling. Get something adjustable and made of DOM and call it a day. Metalcloak, core 4x4 and rock jock are the way to go.

Cool factor engaged. So much gold. Track-bar is more important then rear arms after lift. Center that axle and restore a flat plane!

 

[Texasgrillchef]

I can't speak to the $2,500 but I do have the $1,900 ones from Camburg. They offer 5% more strength and 10% less weight but 2,000% more cool factor for 90% more money compared to even their own $1,000 TA. YMMV. You can't truly justify them except to say "why not".

If you're not drooping in back too bad, this is probably not a priority upgrade and this is coming form someone who just completed an extensive suspension upgrade journey (posted in Builds). Tie-rod reinforcement or upgraded tie-rods would definitely be my #1 reco followed by some more skidplates and maybe the RCI diff-cover

. Hope this helps.

I am planning on upgrading with portals for my lift. They claim I can leave the suspension as is factory. Even with an upgrade to 37’s

with that in mind. Your saying a track bar before trailing arms? Why not both?

 

[swooshdave]

I am planning on upgrading with portals for my lift. They claim I can leave the suspension as is factory. Even with an upgrade to 37’s

with that in mind. Your saying a track bar before trailing arms? Why not both?

If you can afford portals you better add the bling.

 

[KermitBronco]

I am planning on upgrading with portals for my lift. They claim I can leave the suspension as is factory. Even with an upgrade to 37’s

with that in mind. Your saying a track bar before trailing arms? Why not both?

Portals add 6" width minimum which cannot be ignored. My build is pretty much "money no object" and everything was considered - a Raptor, APG PreRunner and portal from either 76weld or Broncbuster. So, I'd start there first! And, FWIW, there's a lot of spray about 76weld but the Tibus portals via Broncbuster have serious credentials.

I purposely rejected them all and went with "stock" Bronco for a multitude of width-dependent variables. But, I'm a super fan of portals for those wanting a wide-stance, high speed Pre-Runner vehicle.

So, what you have written is 100% correct UNLESS you are adding weight up top which may or may not include AND, you don't care about high-speed runs (aka Baja Raptor Runs). But then it also raises questions on why you'd invest in portals.

If investing in portals with "stock" suspension, I'd question about added weights from:
1. Skid-plates.
2. 37" or greater including a spare.
3. Replacing crappy plastic rear bumper with something with a little steel.
4. Roof rack or interior upgrades that add weight.

Frankly, I can't imagine spending $20k+ on portals without upgrading at a minimum to Fox 3.0 shocks. It does not compute.

Hope this helps! I've recently posted about Kermit on the "build" forum if I can further assist.

 

[kpark_67]

If you aren't lifting by suspension more than a few inches, there is no real need for upper or lower arms in the rear. The main need for upgrading those is adjustability that stock doesn't have to re-center the wheel in the arch and adjust caster. If you are going portals for lift, I don't see a need. If you feel like setting fire to some money for no reason, I would gladly take some off your hands.

 

[SierraBronco]

I am planning on upgrading with portals for my lift. They claim I can leave the suspension as is factory. Even with an upgrade to 37’s

with that in mind. Your saying a track bar before trailing arms? Why not both?

Delete the trackbar and triangulate the rear-my opinion.

Sponsored