What lift and tires are you running? Running any spacers with the stock wheels? Looks very nice!Cause, why not??
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I went with the Readylift 3.5 lift it comes with the rear trackbar bracket. Black Rhino wheels 17"x8.5" with +18 offset. Yokohama Geolander M/T 37"x 12.50" tires.
Thanks for the info, it really does look mean
A year ago I installed the Zone 3” lift and 1.5” wheel spacers. Tires are KM3 37s. Got my inspiration from @TNBadBronc build.
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Any rubbing? what size spacers? 1.25"?
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Because clearance is not as simple as "what's lowest". Lift it to fit bigger tires to bring the lowest stuff up (diff etc) but also to get more travel/flex to keep level and keep more stuff from dragging.
I get what the guide is saying but I think it's more of a jumping off point to think about how you go about your upgrades rather than a "dont bother lifting"
I get what the guide is saying but I think it's more of a jumping off point to think about how you go about your upgrades rather than a "dont bother lifting"
Lifts do look good and can enhance off road capability for sure. If it is a good kit and installed properly, including alignment. It's hard to beat the stock, factory parameters for drivability, handing, steering response, etc. That is why the Sasquatch package was so appealing to me. Slight lift and 35" tires engineered into the vehicle. Most people won't ever need anymore than this- including me for the occasional trail or dirt road I will travel down. But some of you are hard core off roaders and need that extra 2" lift and 37" tires to get deep into that back country.
1-2 inches can make a big difference in propensity to roll over.
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Especially if you don’t go wider.. so when I go up I also go out. That said a stock SAS 6th gen is relatively wide for it’s height already
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There are some things that don't move up very easily (what hangs low on the axles, e.g. rear diff). the guide was talking about clearance underneath the vehicle, which is the lowest height underneath before you hit something. I think he may have said some things don't move up; I hope they didn't say all things, because that's (generally) wrong. But easy to confuse hearing it once.
A suspension lift uses new suspension geometry to push the vehicle higher on the suspension mounts. Because the rear diff is oftentimes your lowest point underneath (plus shock attachments), you end up with clearance that's only impacted by the difference in the height you the gain in a taller tire (radius versus circumference). This is pure clearance; as some others have noted, pure versus actual clearance (based on breakover and angles achieved and terrain dimensions), you don't always need to look at the rear diff only.
(There's also body lifts, which can be useful for fitting tires but some people think aren't for serious off roading. This is putting a spacer to lift the body off the frame. YMMV)
Say a true 35 goes to a true 37, that's two inches gain in tire circumference. Only half that is between the ground and your hub center, so you get 1". I would also say air down to say 15psi on a flat surface and do your measurements before/after adding the lift. You typically don't run trails at road pressure.
I wouldn't discount 1" more of clearance. And you can improve suspension articulation, add more up or down travel depending on what you want to do, etc. If you have a non-Sas and want to off road seriously, you'll want a lift.
Bigger tires also tend to go over bigger things easier, which is a benefit off roaders tend to look at as a positive that I didn't see anyone mention. A 35" tire rolls over a gap or rock it's size better than a 32/33" tire goes over a rock the size of a 35" tire.
There are these new things (to recreational off roading) that will become more popular once they're more affordable called portals. I call them axle lifts; they use a gear set at each hub to move the axle up and give pure clearance. So you get 3.5-6" (depending on vendor) of actual clearance, which is different from suspension lifting (the body).
They're probably more than you want to pay, and it's early days, but check out this photo. That's an axle lift with probably 15-17" of pure clearance. My BL Sas has around 11". With portals and 38s, I would expect around 16" of clearance. That goes over big ass rocks. That is clearance. And since it lifts the axle, you get pure clearance and matching actual clearance.
A suspension lift uses new suspension geometry to push the vehicle higher on the suspension mounts. Because the rear diff is oftentimes your lowest point underneath (plus shock attachments), you end up with clearance that's only impacted by the difference in the height you the gain in a taller tire (radius versus circumference). This is pure clearance; as some others have noted, pure versus actual clearance (based on breakover and angles achieved and terrain dimensions), you don't always need to look at the rear diff only.
(There's also body lifts, which can be useful for fitting tires but some people think aren't for serious off roading. This is putting a spacer to lift the body off the frame. YMMV)
Say a true 35 goes to a true 37, that's two inches gain in tire circumference. Only half that is between the ground and your hub center, so you get 1". I would also say air down to say 15psi on a flat surface and do your measurements before/after adding the lift. You typically don't run trails at road pressure.
I wouldn't discount 1" more of clearance. And you can improve suspension articulation, add more up or down travel depending on what you want to do, etc. If you have a non-Sas and want to off road seriously, you'll want a lift.
Bigger tires also tend to go over bigger things easier, which is a benefit off roaders tend to look at as a positive that I didn't see anyone mention. A 35" tire rolls over a gap or rock it's size better than a 32/33" tire goes over a rock the size of a 35" tire.
There are these new things (to recreational off roading) that will become more popular once they're more affordable called portals. I call them axle lifts; they use a gear set at each hub to move the axle up and give pure clearance. So you get 3.5-6" (depending on vendor) of actual clearance, which is different from suspension lifting (the body).
They're probably more than you want to pay, and it's early days, but check out this photo. That's an axle lift with probably 15-17" of pure clearance. My BL Sas has around 11". With portals and 38s, I would expect around 16" of clearance. That goes over big ass rocks. That is clearance. And since it lifts the axle, you get pure clearance and matching actual clearance.
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Some of those curbs around grocery stores are a doozy.
I wanted a little more ground clearance, pick that fat belly up a bit. And yeah, it does look cool.
For what it's worth, I didnt break the bank to boost it up. Used a mild spacer lift to achieve roughly the same result.
I wanted a little more ground clearance, pick that fat belly up a bit. And yeah, it does look cool.
For what it's worth, I didnt break the bank to boost it up. Used a mild spacer lift to achieve roughly the same result.
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I had an ‘07 JKUX. 4” lift and 37s went on 3 months after I bought it, and a garvin wilderness rack. Gearing was all off and I’d watch Priuses fly by my when accelerating. Fuel mileage dropped to 15 from 20, and if I tried to do over 55 on the highway, it would drop to 10.
Traded in for a Camaro SS in ‘11 for better gas mileage. After that I said if I ever buy a jeep again I’ll get a rubicon and leave it stock. Which I did in ‘19 and then traded in for my Bronco Badsquatch, which I also intend to leave stock. Someday, if it’s no longer my daily driver, I might lift it, but for now I’m good.
My point is there are reasons not to lift, also
Traded in for a Camaro SS in ‘11 for better gas mileage. After that I said if I ever buy a jeep again I’ll get a rubicon and leave it stock. Which I did in ‘19 and then traded in for my Bronco Badsquatch, which I also intend to leave stock. Someday, if it’s no longer my daily driver, I might lift it, but for now I’m good.
My point is there are reasons not to lift, also
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