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SierraBronco

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One of the things we like about the Wildtrak trim is that it doesn’t have the electronic swaybar disconnect. It’s nice not having it tied in with the computers as when they break, it makes for an unhappy Bronco. You can always add it in after the fact, then have the ability to disconnect it whenever you please. That said, we’re more fans of simply not running one up front at all. The rear is the game changer for IFS vehicles not weighed down with all kinds of accessories. No swaybar up front and a lighter bar out back gets you great leveling when wheeling and on road stability as well.

The rear swaybar journey started by getting the rockjock setup designed for the Bronco. Unfortunately it uses the same mounts that our rear winch uses, so we had to drill out the brackets a tad to accommodate both. No biggie. The problem came with the other mods we’ve done. The Rock Krawler triangulated four link is a phenomenal addition to the Bronco, but one needs to recognize that with the trackbar deleted, there is a potential for lateral movement of the axle when wheeling. Unless you do something significant with the gas tank, you won’t be able to get a system that eliminates that movement. As a result, we had bent links and mounts with that setup.

Ford Bronco Aftermarket Swaybar Placement IMG_4272


This resulted in our first revision. We ordered 6.5” links from RockJock and basic axle tabs from Barnes then mounted them as far outward on the axle as possible. Now there was no more bind when the axle moves. We wheeled this way on many trips without issue. Great success!

Ford Bronco Aftermarket Swaybar Placement IMG_4337


But now that we’re changing the suspension up to lower the ride height while gaining significant travel, we ran into an issue-at full droop the 6.5” links would be dangerously close to flipping. Okay, just get longer links! But, now we have clearance issues with the addition of bump stops as well as a potential for having the arms push up into the wheel well when fully stuffed. What about…mounting to the trailing arm? Research time.

We previously had a discussion with a buddy regarding swaybar placement and whether in front or behind the axle was better for body control. He told us that in front was ideal, and while we possibly didn’t dig deep enough to confirm that, there is evidence that suggests mounting the torsion bar higher was more effective. We then started looking at our mounting options. It wasn’t easy as the fuel tank or driveline was always in the way, but with a little modification to the charcoal canister mount and getting our own custom mounts made with sendcutsend we eventually got the torsion bar to mount above the frame, right by the body mount. We then used tierods from Rock Krawler as our extended links just for that extra strength and aesthetic. I need to measure it out but mounting above the frame instead of below it puts the torsion bar much higher.

Ford Bronco Aftermarket Swaybar Placement IMG_7960


When you look into mounting your links to the trailing arm instead of the axle itself, you theoretically should lose anti body-roll effectiveness due to the reduced twist on the arm, unless shortening the arms appropriately. But for the sake of comparison and “science” I wanted to see how the higher torsion bar mounting position worked out with almost the same arm lengths (they’re a tad shorter as the arms were cut in two places and welded back together to clear the coilovers)

We then drove 1200 miles to The Rubicon for a redemption run and the interstate manners are phenomenal. Yes, the ride height is lowered which helps with cornering, but there is a very noticeable reduction in body roll and it feels absolutely fantastic.

Ford Bronco Aftermarket Swaybar Placement IMG_6506


As far as wheeling is concerned, when wifey was asked about how the ride is feeling in precarious conditions, she went off! She couldn’t fully express how absolutely planted and stable it feels. While it is a bit excessive to use a trail 1200 miles away for testing and comparison, it really worked out well as this is the last trail she ran and with the quick turnaround she remembers most of the obstacles and how they previously felt. She feels the bronco is noticeably more level when flexed out. We did gain a little bit of travel with the new suspension setup, but with the bumps set to protect the UCA and rear fenders then limit straps a little short to account for stretch, currently we’re not too far from what we previously had.

Ford Bronco Aftermarket Swaybar Placement IMG_8065


With all things considered I feel safe in saying there just might be something to this idea of mounting the torsion bar as high as possible.

Ford Bronco Aftermarket Swaybar Placement IMG_8045
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PWillette

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Mad scientist you are! (y)
 

Felix808

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Clubs
 
Great write up as always. Glad to see it back in action 🤠
 

87-Z28

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Awesome to see. Very nice sway bar setup.

Now for the debate about torsion bar location. For the life of me I can’t see that it makes a difference in theory. But in practice its location surely changes the key variables that dictate its response.

You have changed lots of variables wrt sway bar. At the end of the day the actual torsion bar only carries a torque. and as long as the same torque occurs on the bar wrt wheel motion it doesn’t matter where the bar is located. I think this is universally true but only applies in theory. Of course where it is mounted can change the key variables and dictate response.

the sway bar links (tie rods 🤣) apply a force along their line of action onto the sway bar arm. So wheel motion applies force through links, along their line of action, onto sway bar arm, and thus producing torque in the bar.

the critical variables are:

1) length of sway bar arm. The displacement of the link/arm joint dictates bar torque. You have decreased arm length so the same displacement produces greater torque.

2) 3D vector line of action for the links. This dictates displacement of the sway bar arm. Displacements increase as the line of action with the arm becomes more perpendicular. Your link geometry ensures very near perpendicular line of action is maintained.

3) location of link/trailing arm joint. There is a motion ratio associated with your link attachment to trailing arm. Link motion is decreased wrt wheel motion the further from axle you mount the links.

so it is virtually impossible not to affect these three variables by choosing a bar mounting location. If you kept the same trailing arm attachment and sway bar arm length (1 and 3), but moved the torsion bar location then the link line of action would change and give a slightly different behavior.

mounting the bar up high is not as important as choosing the correct arm length and link lengths (to maintain perpendicular line of action) and the MR from the trailing arm mounting location. Your photo really shows the full torsion bar geometry nicely. Very sweet setup. And the bar is out of the way.

Very easy to tune your setup with slightly different torsion bar diameters. And keep everything else constant. Very nicely done.

Ford Bronco Aftermarket Swaybar Placement IMG_7616
 

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mrjking2000

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that's a fantastic setup! i've been quite happy with my simple BDS 2.5 kit but I know there's more to be had out of the bronco. I got it on 37s, but now I want more suspension performance.
 

MuddyWaters

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My brother in Christ that is a trick setup you've got going.

Have you reached out to the folks at Rock Krawler about the bent link issue with the 4-point center link kit? Or is that an issue that is supposedly assumed when doing such a major suspension mod?
 

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87-Z28

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Updated to include numbers.


Curious to see how the kinematics from this setup are different than using rear Rockjock sway bar in oem configuration. Did you increase or decrease the effective sway bar resistance.

the kinematics can be approximated fairly easily.

thetaSB = arctan [ ( Xw * sin(thetaL) ) / ( Rsb * MRlink ) ]

thetaSB is sway bar rotational angle, thetaL is link angle, Rsb is sway bar arm length, MR is link motion ratio, and Xw is wheel displacement.

this is only an approximation since wheel motion actually occurs in an arc, but reasonable for comparison between oem and this build. Also all motions are assumed to be planar.

the link motion ratio is 1.18 for this build (maybe sierra can confirm). For oem it is 1.0 since links attach to axle. Sierra shortened the sway bar arm some, new link attachment hole or cut some length?? Need number for unaltered arm length and current configuration??

from the longer trailing arm (LCA), this setup should much more effectively transfer displacements through the links; not much loss from link angle (sin thetaL) compared to oem.

assuming both oem and this setup offer near perpendicular link motion then,

for 1” of wheel displacement:

updated to include 18” RJ arms (Rsb=18).

oem sway bar rotation is, arctan (1/18)*(180/3.14=3.2 degrees

this setup sway bar rotation is, arctan (1/(18*1.18))*(180/3.14)=2.7 degrees

For the same torsion bar diameter (stiffness), the kinematics with the greater bar rotation produces greater torque and thus effective resistance to sway.

it seems you decreased effective stiffness by a little, maybe (2.7/3.2)= 85% of previous oem like setup.

@SierraBronco
I looked back through my notes but couldn’t find the sway bar arm lengths.

Ford Bronco Aftermarket Swaybar Placement IMG_7617
 
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SierraBronco

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Curious to see how the kinematics from this setup are different than using rear Rockjock sway bar in oem configuration. Did you increase or decrease the effective sway bar resistance.

the kinematics can be approximated fairly easily.

thetaSB = arctan [ ( Xw * sin(thetaL) ) / ( Rsb * MRlink ) ]

thetaSB is sway bar rotational angle, thetaL is link angle, Rsb is sway bar arm length, MR is link motion ratio, and Xw is wheel displacement.

this is only an approximation since wheel motion actually occurs in an arc, but reasonable for comparison between oem and this build. Also all motions are assumed to be planar.

the link motion ratio is 1.18 for this build (maybe sierra can confirm). For oem it is 1.0 since links attach to axle. Sierra shortened the sway bar arm some, new link attachment hole or cut some length?? Need number for unaltered arm length and current configuration??

from the longer trailing arm (LCA), this setup should much more effectively transfer displacements through the links; not much loss from link angle (sin thetaL) compared to oem.

assuming both oem and this setup offer near perpendicular link motion then,

for 1” of wheel displacement:

oem sway bar rotation is, arctan (1/Rsb)=

this setup sway bar rotation is, arctan (1/(Rsb*1.18))=

For the same torsion bar diameter (stiffness), the kinematics with the greater bar rotation produces greater torque and thus effective resistance to sway.

@SierraBronco
I looked back through my notes but couldn’t find the sway bar arm lengths.

IMG_7617.webp
Still using the RJ 18” arms on the shortest setting. I can’t imagine they’re too much shorter with the bending we did to get around the coilovers.

Also using the .850” RJ torsion bar. I’ll get measurements…soon. But not now. I need a shower. And a bandaid or seven.

I’ll quote all your finalized numbers/information though and put them in the original post. Awesome stuff man and I really appreciate the feedback
 

87-Z28

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Still using the RJ 18” arms on the shortest setting. I can’t imagine they’re too much shorter with the bending we did to get around the coilovers.

Also using the .850” RJ torsion bar. I’ll get measurements…soon. But not now. I need a shower. And a bandaid or seven.

I’ll quote all your finalized numbers/information though and put them in the original post. Awesome stuff man and I really appreciate the feedback
no worries. Those numbers are good enough. Enjoy the rubicon redemption. Your rig is probably making it look easy.

I am just trying to see how the effective stiffness changed. If you have kept the sway bar arm at 18”., then the increased link MR controls the kinematics. Seems like you dropped stiffness a small amount. 85% or so from previous oem setup. Interesting.

I updated the other post with numbers, the 18” arm length.

lots of other factors that can make the rear feel more rotationally stable. Decreased CG, no telling where the instantaneous roll center on that funky upper link setup is, different coilover response, ….

either way that torsion bar location is worth the extra effort. You can always increase the effective stiffness if needed by drilling some additional link mounting holes on the arm. Decreasing effective arm length.
 
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SierraBronco

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no worries. Those numbers are good enough. Enjoy the rubicon redemption. Your rig is probably making it look easy.

I am just trying to see how the effective stiffness changed. If you have kept the sway bar arm at 18”., then the increased link MR controls the kinematics. Seems like you dropped stiffness a small amount. 85% or so from previous oem setup. Interesting.

I updated the other post with numbers, the 18” arm length.

lots of other factors that can make the rear feel more rotationally stable. Decreased CG, no telling where the instantaneous roll center on that funky upper link setup is, different coilover response, ….

either way that torsion bar location is worth the extra effort. You can always increase the effective stiffness if needed by drilling some additional link mounting holes on the arm. Decreasing effective arm length.
Hell yeah man. And we’re all done, at the hotel and already turned the shower into a murder scene.

Wifey crushed it and is absolutely in love with how it’s performing. No more bottoming out is yuge for her, and the rear doesn’t unload on the steep declines. She actually likes descending now, whereas she used to absolutely hate them. The other portal-equipped bronco owner was particularly impressed with how it performed. Got him wanting to make some changes as well 😂
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