My audio system upgrade with lots of photos

[Rem234]

I’ve installed an Audio Control LCQ-1, Punch 400 to drive the dash, kick panels and rear pods (all of which are new Kickers), and an Audio Control 300w mono sub amp for the downward firing shallow 10” Kicker sub. The Bronco doesn’t like my plan. I had sound for minutes, now silence. Still have power to everything, no blown fuses. Then installed the blue LGD from Audio Control…still silence. A kicker LGD is in the mail as the recommendation from Crutchfield. I may have to try that Wavelink LOC if this doesn’t work. (Yes, my connections are right). Anyone else have issues with the Sync 4 being picky with the LOC they used? Crutchfield didn’t have a definitive answer.

If you connect a speaker to the lines running to the LOC does it play? I wonder if it is a resistance thing? These damn new vehicles have a lot going on with the electrical system.
I spent an hour on the phone with the Wave tech technical support guy. Their customer support was awesome! I had a horrible ground loop whine and we eliminated the Link 4 right away. Turned out it was the first amp I had. I exchanged it for this one and it was improved, but still there. Moving the ground wire position help fix that. The Link 4 came with a special extra resistor, apparently the new Jeeps wont let you run a LOC without this resistor because they look for a higher level of resistance. I did not need that resister to make it work in the Bronco. Perhaps the Bronco does have this same thing and the LC1 does not provide enough resistance? I know the tech guy said the Link 4 is set to give more resistance than others even without the jeep piece?
I did have to change a jumper inside the Link 4 to make it regular keyed turn on 12v. The auto signal sensing for the turn on was causing it to wake up every time you opened or closed a door.

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[WarthogJr]

If you connect a speaker to the lines running to the LOC does it play? I wonder if it is a resistance thing? These damn new vehicles have a lot going on with the electrical system.
I spent an hour on the phone with the Wave tech technical support guy. Their customer support was awesome! I had a horrible ground loop whine and we eliminated the Link 4 right away. Turned out it was the first amp I had. I exchanged it for this one and it was improved, but still there. Moving the ground wire position help fix that. The Link 4 came with a special extra resistor, apparently the new Jeeps wont let you run a LOC without this resistor because they look for a higher level of resistance. I did not need that resister to make it work in the Bronco. Perhaps the Bronco does have this same thing and the LC1 does not provide enough resistance? I know the tech guy said the Link 4 is set to give more resistance than others even without the jeep piece?
I did have to change a jumper inside the Link 4 to make it regular keyed turn on 12v. The auto signal sensing for the turn on was causing it to wake up every time you opened or closed a door.

Thanks, I just may need to go that route. I’m convinced it’s a resistance thing. As soon as the speakers are disconnected, the source senses low resistance and shuts off the audio signal. Yes, I have sound when I hook the speakers back up directly. I forgot to say: sweet installation- you paid your dues!

 

[zombie]

How much does an upgrade like this cost in terms of time and $?

I’m in around $2k and 16 hours so far.

FWIW, You don't need to spend anywhere near that sort of money to get really good (IMO) sound.

I spent around $1200 CAD (which is less than a grand in "real" money) for the following:

6.5" Kick panel:
Kenwood KFC-1696PS $100 CAD
Metra 72-5602 (factory harness adaptors) $17 CAD
Metra 8256-05 (adaptor to make 6.5 speakers fit into the factory mounting spot) $35 CAD

4" Front and rears:
Sound Ordnance™ P-40B (x2) $80 CAD
Metra 72-5600 (factory harness adaptors, not a 100% match but work perfectly) (x2) $40 CAD

Subwoofer:
Rockford Fosgate R1-1X12 12-Inch 400 Watt Single Loaded Enclosure $276 CAD

Amplifier:
Kenwood KAC-D8105 Class D 5-Channel $516 CAD

Line audio converter (takes speaker level inputs and converts them to RCA)
DS18 AUDIO V5HL 5 Channel $120 CAD

Wiring:
EFX PA10BX Wiring Kit (10 ga amp wiring kit) $33 CAD
14 Gauge AWG 2 Conductor Speaker Wire/Cable - 100ft $19 CAD
(0.9m / 3ft) 2 RCA M/M Stereo Audio Cable (x3) $33 CAD

Total for everything I needed - $1,269 CAD = $998 USD

Clearly none of this stuff is "top shelf" audiophile quality equipment (particularly the 4" speakers, which I was actually quite surprised with) but it's noticeably better than factory. To my ear, at least, it sounds as good as I could have hoped to get from a vehicle with a soft top.



Apologies for the video being 90 degrees rotated, I assure you it doesn't affect the sound quality (lol)

 

[Petey]

I just swapped my front 4" speakers and 6.5" kick plate speakers and that alone has made a world of difference. I love these sub install ideas though!

 

[Rem234]

FWIW, You don't need to spend anywhere near that sort of money to get really good (IMO) sound.

I spent around $1200 CAD (which is less than a grand in "real" money) for the following:

6.5" Kick panel:
Kenwood KFC-1696PS $100 CAD
Metra 72-5602 (factory harness adaptors) $17 CAD
Metra 8256-05 (adaptor to make 6.5 speakers fit into the factory mounting spot) $35 CAD

4" Front and rears:
Sound Ordnance™ P-40B (x2) $80 CAD
Metra 72-5600 (factory harness adaptors, not a 100% match but work perfectly) (x2) $40 CAD

Subwoofer:
Rockford Fosgate R1-1X12 12-Inch 400 Watt Single Loaded Enclosure $276 CAD

Amplifier:
Kenwood KAC-D8105 Class D 5-Channel $516 CAD

Line audio converter (takes speaker level inputs and converts them to RCA)
DS18 AUDIO V5HL 5 Channel $120 CAD

Wiring:
EFX PA10BX Wiring Kit (10 ga amp wiring kit) $33 CAD
14 Gauge AWG 2 Conductor Speaker Wire/Cable - 100ft $19 CAD
(0.9m / 3ft) 2 RCA M/M Stereo Audio Cable (x3) $33 CAD

Total for everything I needed - $1,269 CAD = $998 USD

Clearly none of this stuff is "top shelf" audiophile quality equipment (particularly the 4" speakers, which I was actually quite surprised with) but it's noticeably better than factory. To my ear, at least, it sounds as good as I could have hoped to get from a vehicle with a soft top.

Agreed, I'm only into this for $1,150 USD and it is total overkill for most people. I should try to get a SPL reading just to see where it is.
A smaller (or off brand) amp powering a set of coax 6.5s and a 10" sub would probably be plenty for most. I did go with larger size and higher quality 4ga. OFC power wire which is more expensive, but makes sure that the amp isn't starved for power.

 

[ATLBronco75]

Doesn't that sub make the tailgate rattle?

 

[palley6]

I wish I had taken a photo of the factory 6.5 speaker. It has a much higher quality cone than the 4"s. I think that is partly why the stock ones produce most of the sound in the front. From what I have seen others say, replacing the stock 6.5 without adding an amp doesn't really change the sound any?

Do you have any waffling or flap from the kick panel speakers? I swapped my OEMs for Infinity Reference 6.5s, put dynamat all around the mounting surface and even behind in the cavity and it was terrible. I dont have any bass blockers or amps connected, but I was to the point I had to switch it back to the OEMs.

 

[Mattwings]

As you are all aware, the standard audio system is lacking, especially if you spend any time with the top and doors off and actually enjoy music. It is subpar for a 2021 vehicle in any price range. Here is what I did to improve. First I tried to take the inexpensive way out and installed the Infinity 4" REF-4032CFX speakers front and rear. This did yield an improvement in sound quality and a minor volume improvement. Back in the 90's I was really into car audio and did some decent installs, so I decided to go all in and give our ride the sounds it deserves for true top off enjoyment. Here is what I have now:

Infinity Reference REF-4030CFX (4 of them)
Rockford Fosgate P1675-S 6 3/4 components
Wave Tech link 4 line out converter
Rockford Fosgate T1000X5ad 5 channel amp
JL Audio CS112LG-TW3 12" Sub in sealed box
T-Spec 4 ga. wiring and RCAs

Rather than purchase adapters for the 6.75 I made my own from 1/2 thick plastic. The stock kick panel speaker is a 6.5", but there is plenty of depth and space for the 6.75 to fit. As these were the only ones my local shop had in stock, I went with them. I did trim the back of the kick panel trim grill area (see photo) to ensure that the speaker would not touch as it travels. I mounted the tweeters to the dash top grills.
The amp is running like this:
2 channels - 4" Infinitys in the dash
2 channels - 6.75 components
1 channel - JL 12" at 2 ohms

I left the rear speakers running off the stock head unit and they only provide some minor rear fill. I tapped the kick panel speaker wiring (under the head unit) to feed the Wave Tech line out converter, mounted under the steering column. From there two sets of RCAs feed the amp mounted in the rear fender area.
The link 4 has a remote level knob that controls the sub volume and it is mounted under the dash (see photo).
I mounted the fuse to the lid of the fuse box under the hood and ran the 4 ga. wire down the drivers side and then across the back behind the seat, following the factory wiring harness. The RCAs, speaker, and remote wires are routed down the passenger side.
Originally I tired using the factory ground location towards the top rear of the fender area. This provided a lot of ground loop feedback so I ended up moving it to the location shown in the photo closer to the seat belt.
I cut the carpet off the sub box and coated it with two coats of Herculiner truck bed coating. I machined two custom t-slot nuts that fit into the oval cut outs in the tailgate. I used these two t-slot nuts and three rivet nuts across the top in existing factory holes to attach the box to the tailgate using five 1/4-20 bolts. Since the tailgate is not flat I placed some 3/16 thick rubber between the box and tailgate. I ran the wires to the sub inside of the factory wire loom and then close to the box brought them out into their own loom for a factory look.
The amp is mounted to a board attached to the fender using three existing studs in the fender. Everything is in loom or protective sleeve where it could be exposed to movement or wear. I removed practically every interior panel to complete this job and only managed to break one clip, and that was on the dash speaker grill after the third time taking it out.
Thank you to all of you who have posted photos and information on here to help me educate myself before I started the project. This system is overkill and is clear and loud enough that cruising with the top off is going to be awesome!

Nice write up and pictures. Does the line level converter have a signal sensor and remote on switch? I also used the 4" upgrade route (just the front 4" Infinity Reference, the rears have so little output, I haven't' bothered). It helped, but basically just made the stock system sound a bit cleaner, the sound quality tolerable and "audible" with the top off. I am probably going to do a small powered sub under the front seat and I have a 2 channel amp I was going to use for the fronts, but the amp doesn't have the input sensor. My interim plan was to try the 2 channel amp and 6/4/1" tweeter MB Quart component set. seems like the 4" full range and 1" tweeter route would be really "bright". What is your take on that end of your system?

I worked in 12V audio for a long time, but it's been a long time, so I am re-educating myslef a bit.

 

[Rem234]

Nice write up and pictures. Does the line level converter have a signal sensor and remote on switch? I also used the 4" upgrade route (just the front 4" Infinity Reference, the rears have so little output, I haven't' bothered). It helped, but basically just made the stock system sound a bit cleaner, the sound quality tolerable and "audible" with the top off. I am probably going to do a small powered sub under the front seat and I have a 2 channel amp I was going to use for the fronts, but the amp doesn't have the input sensor. My interim plan was to try the 2 channel amp and 6/4/1" tweeter MB Quart component set. seems like the 4" full range and 1" tweeter route would be really "bright". What is your take on that end of your system?

I worked in 12V audio for a long time, but it's been a long time, so I am re-educating myslef a bit.

The Link 4 has the ability to auto turn on and then has an output to feed turn on signal to the amps. I ended up changing the jumper inside the link 4 so that it uses a standard turn on to prevent it from powering up every time a door was opened or closed. When the Bronco would "wake up" it would trigger it on. So now it is using a keyed 12v wire from the under hood fuse tap.
Yes, having both the 4" Infinitys and the Rockford tweeters on the dash makes it really bright. I have the output of the amp for the 4"s dialed all the way down and the treble setting on the head unit low. I was actually thinking it might be worth upgrading the 4"s to something that can handle more power and a slightly lower signal. Right now they still have the 600hz bass blockers on them.

 

[Rem234]

Doesn't that sub make the tailgate rattle?

See my other replies to this question above.

 

[Rem234]

Do you have any waffling or flap from the kick panel speakers? I swapped my OEMs for Infinity Reference 6.5s, put dynamat all around the mounting surface and even behind in the cavity and it was terrible. I dont have any bass blockers or amps connected, but I was to the point I had to switch it back to the OEMs.

Nothing that I can hear. I considered putting some dynamat in the area behind the speaker, but I did not have any on hand and the sheet metal in there felt pretty solid. And its actually a good sized little chamber that seems to be all steel and sealed.
Perhaps your speaker cone or surround is hitting the plastic trim panel (speaker grill)? I know mine was going to be super close which is why I trimmed off all of the ribs on the back side of the grill. And the speaker adaptor I made is only 1/2 inch thick. I know some people were using the Metra adaptor which is 3/4 inch thick so it would have to be really tight to the trim panel. Even though my speakers are 6.75 on 6.5 they are still pretty similar in size. I would suggest popping the panel off and listening to it to see if that goes away?

 

[thattrue32]

video walk around would be awesome!

 

[thenewjs]

I'm going for the Lux package and looking to install a sub or two under the rear seats. I've been rocking JL's since about 99".

 

[Scsoren]

I'm going for the Lux package and looking to install a sub or two under the rear seats. I've been rocking JL's since about 99".

I’m using JL‘s too, but don’t think you’ll be able to put anything under the rear seats in a 4-door.

 

[Mattwings]

The Link 4 has the ability to auto turn on and then has an output to feed turn on signal to the amps. I ended up changing the jumper inside the link 4 so that it uses a standard turn on to prevent it from powering up every time a door was opened or closed. When the Bronco would "wake up" it would trigger it on. So now it is using a keyed 12v wire from the under hood fuse tap.
Yes, having both the 4" Infinity's and the Rockford tweeters on the dash makes it really bright. I have the output of the amp for the 4"s dialed all the way down and the treble setting on the head unit low. I was actually thinking it might be worth upgrading the 4"s to something that can handle more power and a slightly lower signal. Right now they still have the 600hz bass blockers on them.

So you don't get a turn on or turn of pop with the amp/control box being on all the time the ignition is? I was hoping the LOC had a signal sensing turn on so it would trigger the amp on with the radio, not the ignition. I may end up going with a newer amp that is "designed" to be integrated if I can't identify a good and inexpensive solution.

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