Curt Plug-and-Play No-Splice Trailer Wiring Harness Out For Bronco

[greyburn]

Where are people getting the reverse signals from for a 7-pin adapter? Is this not also a PCM signal or can you just tap into the tail lights for this one?

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[Rubicon 2 Badlands]

Because it needs a bunch more stuff (charge wire, reverse wire, brake wire) you could add the charge wire and brake wire to a brake controller yourself pretty easy. Most trailers anyone would be towing with a Bronco, likely don't have reverse lights.

Not so sure about that. I will be towing an off-road trailer that has reverse lights, and I know many others that own trailers with reverse lights. Mine has a seven pin connector, which is why I ordered the factory tow package.

 

[vrtical]

Where are people getting the reverse signals from for a 7-pin adapter? Is this not also a PCM signal or can you just tap into the tail lights for this one?

I assume the Bronco has a reverse light circuit

 

[wyobronco]

Base has halogen and it will work for you with a little connector pin swapping, assuming Curt doesn't release a special halogen version before then.

Im having a hell of a time figuring this thread out. Appreciate all of you that are working through these issues for us folks that have no electrical smarts!

I have a Black diamond, and Im past the 30 day return on the harness. Was going to install it this weekend, so can someone tell me exactly what pins I will need to swap? By reading through this, Im assuming the best road is to go to the battery and ground to frame in rear? (I dont care about revers lights or trailer brakes at this point)

If one of you guys that are good with this stuff could put together a quick how to I would be very grateful!

Thanks!

 

[VoltageDrop]

Im having a hell of a time figuring this thread out. Appreciate all of you that are working through these issues for us folks that have no electrical smarts!

I have a Black diamond, and Im past the 30 day return on the harness. Was going to install it this weekend, so can someone tell me exactly what pins I will need to swap? By reading through this, Im assuming the best road is to go to the battery and ground to frame in rear? (I dont care about revers lights or trailer brakes at this point)

If one of you guys that are good with this stuff could put together a quick how to I would be very grateful!

Thanks!

To reproduce what I did:

• Watch these two short videos showing how to put the Curt kit connectors into service mode:
  https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ing-harness-out-for-bronco.25164/post-1033568
  
  
• Then, use a paper clip or similar to remove pins 3 and 5 at each of the four Curt connectors and transpose them. Pin 3 becomes pin 5 and vice versa. Pics here:
  https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ing-harness-out-for-bronco.25164/post-1037641
  
  
• Cut the red wire coming from the Curt box right before the splice that splits to the connectors. Cut the ring terminal off the Curt white wire and ground these two wires, which I did by crimping a butt splice to a longer wire that runs through the driver side tail light grommet and grounds behind the left side interior trim. I prefer interior grounds to avoid moisture issues but this does add work versus grounding underneath.
  
  
• The black wire on the Curt box needs a 10A 12V circuit so you can run that to the battery or run it along with the ground wire through the grommet like I did and use one of the two 12V circuits at the unused trailer tow module connector behind the left side interior trim. The fuse should be swapped to a 10A one to match the Curt box and it's a funky split fuse so check it out ahead of time. They're at the very front right of the under-hood fuse box, 30A and 40A. (F107 and F91)
  
  
• I mounted the box on top of the frame right in front of the bumper on the driver side and snaked the connectors between the body and the bumper then on up to the tail lights. There's plenty of room for the splicing and extra wire to tuck behind the left taillight. The Curt instructions show how to remove the trim back there. Pics of splicing and where I got power and ground:
  https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ing-harness-out-for-bronco.25164/post-1049482

Don't worry about insulating the red wire nub hanging off the splice after you cut it because the red wire pins end up sitting in unused position 5 in the connector. I just left them so there wouldn't be an open hole in the connector for water to find.

If you want to use the same interior power source I did, Phil (@flip ) at Ruxer Ford now sells the connector pins in his store and there's a B6G discount so buy some other stuff while you're there.

 

[805BaseSquatch]

@VoltageDrop wow amazing write up! Thank you.
I am now not tempted to switch my order To a BigBend just for the towing option.

 

[VoltageDrop]

@VoltageDrop wow amazing write up! Thank you.
I am now not tempted to switch my order To a BigBend just for the towing option.

Nah, not worth it. There will be enough base rigs out there to force the market to make this easy soon and it looks like adding brakes, reverse, and 12V for a 7-pin connector won't be all that hard. Stay tuned and stay pumped!

 

[Ksjrb03]

Although it’s easy to do the wiring, just a hassle, I would of got the factory tow package if it was an option on my order. The lack of integration with the electronics and no trailer sway control should not be ignored. It’s worth the extra cost.

 

[805BaseSquatch]

Nah, not worth it. There will be enough base rigs out there to force the market to make this easy soon and it looks like adding brakes, reverse, and 12V for a 7-pin connector won't be all that hard. Stay tuned and stay pumped!

All I need is the 4pin, I’m sure others will figure out the 7 pin soon enough.

The 4pin is easy enough, completely makes sense now. Sticking with my Base Sas order

 

[805BaseSquatch]

Although it’s easy to do the wiring, just a hassle, I would of got the factory tow package if it was an option on my order. The lack of integration with the electronics and no trailer sway control should not be ignored. It’s worth the extra cost.

On the Ford website it shows trailer sway control is part of the Base model “copilot 360”

 

[Ksjrb03]

On the Ford website it shows trailer sway control is part of the Base model “copilot 360”

Nope. If the vehicle doesn’t know you have a trailer connected, you don’t get any of the features including trailer sway.

 

[vrtical]

Nope. If the vehicle doesn’t know you have a trailer connected, you don’t get any of the features including trailer sway.

I have towed heavy stuff aka box trailer (wind sail), dont think you really need a sway control with 3-5k lbs with the Bronco not gonna be towing anything big. I towed 9k with my F150 and never had the sway engage ever and I drove all over.

 

[wyobronco]

To reproduce what I did:

• Watch these two short videos showing how to put the Curt kit connectors into service mode:
  https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ing-harness-out-for-bronco.25164/post-1033568
  
  
• Then, use a paper clip or similar to remove pins 3 and 5 at each of the four Curt connectors and transpose them. Pin 3 becomes pin 5 and vice versa. Pics here:
  https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ing-harness-out-for-bronco.25164/post-1037641
  
  
• Cut the red wire coming from the Curt box right before the splice that splits to the connectors. Cut the ring terminal off the Curt white wire and ground these two wires, which I did by crimping a butt splice to a longer wire that runs through the driver side tail light grommet and grounds behind the left side interior trim. I prefer interior grounds to avoid moisture issues but this does add work versus grounding underneath.
  
  
• The black wire on the Curt box needs a 10A 12V circuit so you can run that to the battery or run it along with the ground wire through the grommet like I did and use one of the two 12V circuits at the unused trailer tow module connector behind the left side interior trim. The fuse should be swapped to a 10A one to match the Curt box and it's a funky split fuse so check it out ahead of time. They're at the very front right of the under-hood fuse box, 30A and 40A. (F107 and F91)
  
  
• I mounted the box on top of the frame right in front of the bumper on the driver side and snaked the connectors between the body and the bumper then on up to the tail lights. There's plenty of room for the splicing and extra wire to tuck behind the left taillight. The Curt instructions show how to remove the trim back there. Pics of splicing and where I got power and ground:
  https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ing-harness-out-for-bronco.25164/post-1049482

Don't worry about insulating the red wire nub hanging off the splice after you cut it because the red wire pins end up sitting in unused position 5 in the connector. I just left them so there wouldn't be an open hole in the connector for water to find.

If you want to use the same interior power source I did, Phil (@flip ) at Ruxer Ford now sells the connector pins in his store and there's a B6G discount so buy some other stuff while you're there.

THANK YOU FOR THAT!!!!! im gonna knock this out soon and this is huge, thank you again!!!

 

[Jaythor74]

I finished this job today on my Base. High level: pull rear quarter trim and taillight housing, install Tekonsha plug and play outside in the tail light cavity, modified plug pin positions for Base halogen headlights, source power from TTM plug (thanks Flip for the pins), ground (with "red wire") to the ground lug above the TTM.

Way more stressful than I thought it would be. Had all the technical information and materials/tools, but the hardest parts were the mechanical things, pulling and tugging on interior panels (and exterior ones such as my Antimatter Blue taillight trims... where the hell will I get that if I break one!!). Just constantly worrying about whether something is going to break, should I pull that etc. Nothing did break, at least nothing too critical or at least not known, it all went back together with no spare hardware or plastic pieces. No pictures, way too stressed out for that. I went VERY slow, had it apart and tested last night and back together today.

First pulled out the carpet/floor, four hooks - 8 10mm bolts and some plastic covers and yank it out. Easy.

Pull plastic sill trim at back of cargo area - 5 springyclips that's easy, set it aside.

Quarter trim - very stressful. Soft top latch plate/prop rod thing first, 8mm bolt, thread locker on it. Then pulled the cover off the soft top attachment bolts just to look down and see the TTM module I need (you can see it down there and actually access the ground stud with just that side plate off). At the back of the quarter trim above the tailgate latch are two orange pop fasteners that come out ok, just feels like you're going to break the panel. There are about 3 or 4 other white pop-its, one in the vicinity of the prep kit, one forward of the TTM and one forward of the soft top attachment bolts, may have been one more. These are the kind that sometimes they pop all the way out and other times a little pop top that comes off the main fastener.

Before you try to pull too hard on the quarter trim, there is a wire/plug going to maybe a TPMS antenna in the back of the panel, make sure you take that plug off before pulling out on the panel too far.

From there I was able to reach all I needed to on the TTM plugs. Pull all the connectors off the mounting stud (it's just a pull) before trying to unplug them individually.

There was another plastic trim around the roll bar that also came out.

Rubber taillight pieces come out easy, 4 pop-its (reusable kind) and 2 10mm screws each.

The taillight is just stupid. Shocked that I didn't break something. I hadn't found on here how to do it, the manual has instructions how to pull it that don't seem right, they say to pull on the inboard side of the plastic body trim to release it but it has one-way fasteners and I see no way to actually free it without breaking it. I found this youtube video and pretty much did exactly what he did
Two 8mm near the door need a small 8mm wrench to get in there and slowly take them out, needed a 10mm nutdriver for the bottom one, and one more 10mm once you pop off the back side of the plastic trim (there are two, but on my base only one actually engages the tail light). These are all in the video.

Everything else was just plugging and chugging as expected and reversing all the above processes. I may or may not have gotten every fastener back in that quarter trim, but it looks and feels fine. Everything looks no worse for wear.

If I had it to do over again I think I would just get power from the battery and ground where I could instead of going into the taillight grommet and powering from the TTM. Seems cleaner to do it this way but it just felt risky. I could have left the taillight and interior alone. But I learned a lot so there's that.

End of the day I've got trailer towing and a 4 pin for just over $200. Happy!

I ordered the Tekonsha harness too for my Base. You have to swap the same pins 3-5 like the curt kit? Thanks

 

[skoorb76]

I ordered the Tekonsha harness too for my Base. You have to swap the same pins 3-5 like the curt kit? Thanks

Yep swap 3 and 5. Leave the brown one where it is in pin 2 on the left side. I mounted the controller in the taillight cavity up high and cut the red wire about where the white wire is, then spliced red and white together to a single 12 ga ground wire and ran through the grommet along with the power wire. So two butt splices outside in the cavity for power (to the black) and ground ( white and red together).

On the right side I did leave the two red pins out ( put them together and heat shrink-ed them) but someday I'm going to get them and put them back in the connector as VoltageDrop says to avoid water intrusion.

The Curt is different from the Tekonsha in that the brown, red, and yellow are all on the left side on the Curt with only the green on the right,, where the red and green both go to right on the Tekonsha

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