DIY Factory Tow Package using OEM parts with Forscan As-built Data (without error codes)

[Jimmiee]

That is the (Ford Trailer Brake Controller made by Redarc)
part# VM2DZ-2C006-A
That is where I installed the control knob. It comes with a template and instructions to install it in the center console. It doesn't look right there, in my opinion.

Like others have done, I drove the hole and mounted the control knob in the light switch control module . It looks like it belongs there part of the light switch.

When you order the Tow-Pro Elite you will also need the separate harness that lets you plug it into the connector by the gas pedal. This harness is not part of the kit. The REDARC part number is TPH-007

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[RoverDude]

When you order the Tow-Pro Elite you will also need the separate harness that lets you plug it into the connector by the gas pedal. This harness is not part of the kit. The REDARC part number is TPH-007

That harness is included buying Ford version "VM2DZ-2C006-A"
Still probably not cost effective.
But I used my passpoints to buy it.

 

[Jimmiee]

That harness is included buying Ford version "VM2DZ-2C006-A"
Still probably not cost effective.
But I used my passpoints to buy it.

That makes sense. The Kit from Amazon is $237 and the Harness is $22. The Ford kit on the accessories website is $339

 

[Catatonic]

Wow! Thank you so much for the write up. I've been too lazy to pull things apart and figure this out. Now I have no excuses to do the job...

Location of your switch looks great and looks sanitary.

For those wondering why the install instructions recommend the console, I can see why they did that as I normally install on the side of the console (the big bulky box kind of controller). Most trailer controllers have a push button override. When you're cruising downhill or in the wind the trailer can begin to sway and the tail begins to wag the dog. Having that button in a location that you can quickly push and apply some braking to the trailer only will straighten her right out. I cruise along for example with my left hand on the wheel and my right arm on the console. In an emergency I can quickly push the button through muscle memory without having to switch hands on the wheel or search for it.

Wherever the button is, just practice with it a few times to make sure you can reach
over and push it quickly without taking your eyes off the road. You don't want to be hunting for it when the sway starts.

 

[Jimmiee]

Since I have already purchased the Tow-Pro and Ford 4-Pin Module I'm going that route. The price for doing the OEM Module is about $682, and the cost of doing the Ford aftermarket 4 Pin harness and added 7-pin Tow Pro is about $434 plus incidentals, ie. wire ties, silicone, double stick tape, etc, not including the Trailer Hitch itself. RoverDude Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Here's a parts list for each:

OEM Parts With Forscan programming.

M2DZ-19H332-A (Trailer tow module) $198
VM2DZ2C006A (Ford Tow-Pro Trailer Brake Kit) $339
M2DZ-14A666-B (Ford 4-7 Pin Plug and Harness kit.) $45
Wire, Connectors, Silicone, Tape, etc. SWAG $100
Total $682
Ford 4-Pin Module + Tow-Pro Kit

FT1Z15A416A Ford Module & 4-Pin Wiring Harness $125
Tow-Pro EBRH-ACC-V3-NA Kit $237
Tow-Pro TPH-007 Harness $22
Hopkins #41144 (Trailer 4-7 Pin Plug and Harness ) $50
Total $434

 

[JR007]

Great write up. I dropped the tow package and plan on doing this.

Does it look factory from the rear? Can you post a picture?

 

[RoverDude]

Great write up. I dropped the tow package and plan on doing this.

Does it look factory from the rear? Can you post a picture?

Pictures As requested!

This is the Exact same setup as the factory hitch.

The factory hitch fit snug under the Spare *Can't see it close up*:

From Side:

Down Low:

With Gate Open (Spare not in Way)

Closes up of just the Hitch:

Other then a green marker on the bolt to show it was torqued from the factory, it look the same

 

[JR007]

Pictures As requested!

This is the Exact same setup as the factory hitch.

The factory hitch fit snug under the Spare *Can't see it close up*:

From Side:

Down Low:

With Gate Open (Spare not in Way)

Closes up of just the Hitch:

Other then a green marker on the bolt to show it was torqued from the factory, it look the same

Thanks. It does look like it came that way.

 

[Blaylock1988]

Since I have already purchased the Tow-Pro and Ford 4-Pin Module I'm going that route. The price for doing the OEM Module is about $682, and the cost of doing the Ford aftermarket 4 Pin harness and added 7-pin Tow Pro is about $434 plus incidentals, ie. wire ties, silicone, double stick tape, etc, not including the Trailer Hitch itself. RoverDude Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Here's a parts list for each:

OEM Parts With Forscan programming.

M2DZ-19H332-A (Trailer tow module) $198
VM2DZ2C006A (Ford Tow-Pro Trailer Brake Kit) $339
M2DZ-14A666-B (Ford 4-7 Pin Plug and Harness kit.) $45
Wire, Connectors, Silicone, Tape, etc. SWAG $100
Total $682
Ford 4-Pin Module + Tow-Pro Kit

FT1Z15A416A Ford Module & 4-Pin Wiring Harness $125
Tow-Pro EBRH-ACC-V3-NA Kit $237
Tow-Pro TPH-007 Harness $22
Hopkins #41144 (Trailer 4-7 Pin Plug and Harness ) $50
Total $434

I was planning on going the same route, except for adding some wires from the front to make it a full 7 pin. I wonder if the tow module really adds any meaningful software benefits?

 

[Ksjrb03]

I was planning on going the same route, except for adding some wires from the front to make it a full 7 pin. I wonder if the tow module really adds any meaningful software benefits?

Trailer connection sense
Trailer sway control
Bliss integration
Wiring fault detection
Few more I’m forgetting

 

[VoltageDrop]

I'm going to be installing a Curt 4-pin wiring harness (56471) on my Black Diamond. Curt now has a separate 4-pin harnesses for Broncos with LED taillights and non-LED taillights. The Black Diamond has halogen taillights so it needs the non-LED harness. The installation instructions call for running a 12 volt wire all the way from the battery to the rear of the vehicle where the control module will be mounted. I was told I could get 12 volts from one of these cargo compartment connectors and avoid the long wire run. One of the grey connectors has two blue wires coming out of it. By chance do you know if this could be used as a 12 volt power source? Thanks for a great write up.

I used one of them to power my Curt module. It's probably not a big deal but the smallest split M-case fuse I could find was 15A while Curt suggests a smaller one (10A?). While I like the idea of using the OEM power circuit, if I was doing it again I'd probably run a new power wire along the driver side frame rail harness up to the engine bay and either tie to the battery or an unused circuit up there somewhere. It would probably be faster than removing the interior trim and tail light and less likely to break something.

Realistically, if I was doing this again I would also run the brake and reverse wires for a 7-pin from the connectors the OP tapped into above the front left tire so it would make sense to run those together down the frame rail. I gathered all the pins and wire to do this but my unloaded tongue-heavy utility trailer gave the Bronco massive Carolina squat so I bought a truck instead

Good job @RoverDude Next time, put a little red paint on that machete

 

[Jimmiee]

I was planning on going the same route, except for adding some wires from the front to make it a full 7 pin. I wonder if the tow module really adds any meaningful software benefits?

This module makes it a full 7 pin with tow controller. Everything except a tow module

 

[XirallicBolts]

I was wondering what those unused connectors in the rear were for! I stuck with the 4-pin kit, no plans to pull anything with brakes.

I'm guessing you saw that same nonsense where it explicitly says to cut through the middle of the brake light grommet, despite that part being an inch thick?

 

[CCMDoc]

I’d love to do this - but I don’t have the skills to tackle the electrical work.

If there’s someone trustworthy in NJ to do this - please pass it on.

Maryland is a nice drive from me, maybe I can work out something with the OP.

 

[Merc4x4]

I’d love to do this - but I don’t have the skills to tackle the electrical work.

If there’s someone trustworthy in NJ to do this - please pass it on.

Maryland is a nice drive from me, maybe I can work out something with the OP.

OK4WD in Stewartsville.
I don't know if they will do it, but I'd trust them to do it.

https://ok4wd.com/locations

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