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BEST Tubular Upper control Arm?

SROC3

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So I'm doing the Eibach Spring lift kit for my SAS Bronco.....I am thinking I should get at least the Upper Control Arms and the Rear Track Bar.

Are the Billet (UCA) ones THAT MUCH better than the tubular ones? Or just looks?

Can I just save and NOT get anything at all since the lift will literally only be about 1"?

Thoughts and advice oh great forum!!!! :))))
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kodiakisland

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The stock UCAs are some of the best I’ve had for both clearance and range of motion. I would not replace them unless they no longer align, unless you just want the look. I’m at 26.5 inches center axle to metal fender and my stock UCAs still align, but just barely.

As far as the rear, replace as much as you can afford if you want to increase rear axle movement.
 
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The stock UCAs are some of the best I’ve had for both clearance and range of motion. I would not replace them unless they no longer align, unless you just want the look. I’m at 26.5 inches center axle to metal fender and my stock UCAs still align, but just barely.

As far as the rear, replace as much as you can afford if you want to increase rear axle movement.
By rear you mean - rear trialing links? (upper and lower?) - so even with only a 1 inch lift I would benefit from having better trailing links?
 

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By rear you mean - rear trialing links? (upper and lower?) - so even with only a 1 inch lift I would benefit from having better trailing links?
The rear trailing arms and track bar use hard rubber bushings. Mine were already cracking. There are quite a few arms and track bars that provide a lot more movement, regardless of lift.
 

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The rear trailing arms and track bar use hard rubber bushings. Mine were already cracking. There are quite a few arms and track bars that provide a lot more movement, regardless of lift.
Hmmm.....So, assuming I would only change my Springs and get a 1" lift as a result - You would recommend I keep my stock UCA, and maybe change my Rear Trailing links (upper and lower) and Track bar to say.....ICON tubular ones? Would that be a good direction to go in?
 

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Hmmm.....So, assuming I would only change my Springs and get a 1" lift as a result - You would recommend I keep my stock UCA, and maybe change my Rear Trailing links (upper and lower) and Track bar to say.....ICON tubular ones? Would that be a good direction to go in?

If you don't want to spend money on UCAs, just see if they align after the lift first. They more than likely will. If not, then look at replacing.

As far as the rears, there are several companies making arms and track bars that all offer more range of movement over stock. I bought Camburg because they were the only arms on the market, but would probably buy Rockjock now, but they are all better than stock. The lowers are easy to do as you don't have to lower the gas tank, although you will need to cut one of the bolts to remove it. The upper arms require lowering the gas tank, and it's on my to do list. The rear track bar is an easy swap. Brand probably doesn't matter that much.
 
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If you don't want to spend money on UCAs, just see if they align after the lift first. They more than likely will. If not, then look at replacing.

As far as the rears, there are several companies making arms and track bars that all offer more range of movement over stock. I bought Camburg because they were the only arms on the market, but would probably buy Rockjock now, but they are all better than stock. The lowers are easy to do as you don't have to lower the gas tank, although you will need to cut one of the bolts to remove it. The upper arms require lowering the gas tank, and it's on my to do list. The rear track bar is an easy swap. Brand probably doesn't matter that much.
Apparently Eibach designed them so they would align with all stock components.

Are these the rear ones you said you would get? - https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-182400-101

I will also not be doing any installs - as the shop would be doing it all for me.

Thanks for your sage advice as everyone I have spoken to has recommended I change the UCA FIRST, then move to the rear later on. It's good to hear a different opinion so I can compare.
 

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Apparently Eibach designed them so they would align with all stock components.

Are these the rear ones you said you would get? - https://www.rockjock4x4.com/RJ-182400-101

I will also not be doing any installs - as the shop would be doing it all for me.

Thanks for your sage advice as everyone I have spoken to has recommended I change the UCA FIRST, then move to the rear later on. It's good to hear a different opinion so I can compare.

A lot of that advice comes from working on other vehicles. Typically, stock UCAs have less clearance and less range of motion. The ones on the Bronco were designed to have a lot of clearance and to have enough range of motion and alignment for a suspension running 35s. It's not bad advice for the Toyotas and Chevys I've had, but the Bronco UCAs as really good.

Yes, those are the rear links I would get if starting over, but again I think all the various brands are good. Definitely better than stock.
 

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A lot of that advice comes from working on other vehicles. Typically, stock UCAs have less clearance and less range of motion. The ones on the Bronco were designed to have a lot of clearance and to have enough range of motion and alignment for a suspension running 35s. It's not bad advice for the Toyotas and Chevys I've had, but the Bronco UCAs as really good.

Yes, those are the rear links I would get if starting over, but again I think all the various brands are good. Definitely better than stock.
I was reading the detail and the Johnny Joints have 33 deg, compared to other brands with only 20+. And if it's rated for Commercial use....how can you go wrong? :)

I think since I'm keeping my 35s for now.....I will use the stock UCA. Then if I do upgrade to 37s or increase lift via a Coilover system then I will change the UCAs at that point.
 

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I was reading the detail and the Johnny Joints have 33 deg, compared to other brands with only 20+. And if it's rated for Commercial use....how can you go wrong? :)

I think since I'm keeping my 35s for now.....I will use the stock UCA. Then if I do upgrade to 37s or increase lift via a Coilover system then I will change the UCAs at that point.
I think that's a good plan. Just be prepared to replace the UCAs if it doesn't align. Most are going to align with one inch of lift, but all vehicles are differnt and you never know until you do it. Like I said ealier, I'm at 26.5 inches center axle to metal fender with stock UCAs and in alignment. You can measure where you are now and where you will probably end up to see where that puts you. Mine aligned at the minimum specs, so I would guess around 26 inches is where it starts to be needed on some.
 
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I think that's a good plan. Just be prepared to replace the UCAs if it doesn't align. Most are going to align with one inch of lift, but all vehicles are differnt and you never know until you do it. Like I said ealier, I'm at 26.5 inches center axle to metal fender with stock UCAs and in alignment. You can measure where you are now and where you will probably end up to see where that puts you. Mine aligned at the minimum specs, so I would guess around 26 inches is where it starts to be needed on some.
Well, right after our discussion I went ahead and ordered the parts from my local shop. I'm sure it will align as several people here on the forum have the springs and have no issues thus far :) I also spoke to another "expert" at my friends behest, over here at one of the stores, and explained to him my Plan for the build and he agreed with me 100%. He actually said that the stock UCAs are usually good for up to 2.5 inches of lift.

So my Suspension build will consist of:
- Eibach Pro Lift Kit Springs (for SAS)
- The RockJock® Johnny Joint® - Rear Control Arm Set (Upper and Lower)
- ICON Rear Track Bar
- 1.5 Inch Wheel Spacers
- BroncBuster Tie Rod Brace Set (https://broncbustertx.com/products/tie-rod-busterbrace)

I should have this all installed my early next week. I will keep you posted and show pics after the work is done! Thanks SO much again for the guidance! I'm hoping that sometime next year, when I am ready, RockJock will come out with their own version of UCAs with the Johnny Joint in it as well :cool:
 

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Can’t wait to hear your report once it’s all installed.

This will give you an idea of how bad those stock rear arms are. This was only a few months old and already cracking. I was always lifting a rear tire on easy to moderate obstacles until I replaced them. Now I usually keep both rear tires on the ground where they belong.

Ford Bronco BEST Tubular Upper control Arm? FE9FBC4F-7F15-49FA-8426-AF488A206067
 
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Can’t wait to hear your report once it’s all installed.

This will give you an idea of how bad those stock rear arms are. This was only a few months old and already cracking. I was always lifting a rear tire on easy to moderate obstacles until I replaced them. Now I usually keep both rear tires on the ground where they belong.

FE9FBC4F-7F15-49FA-8426-AF488A206067.jpeg
Wow that is a BIG difference. I don't have a swaybar-disconnect and still have BOTH of my swaybars on. I don't want them removed cause I do like my city driving :). The fact that the articulation will be SO much better with the Johnny Joints is awesome.
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