2.7L Oil Change Tips + Replacement Drain Plugs

[TILNOR]

Dipstick opening. It was well over 5 and close to 6, on this thing, didn’t have time to open the drain and see if there was more.

Interesting way to do it. How do you remove any residuals at the bottom of the pan? Dump it every other change?

I used your tip on slowly removing the drain plug out on the first oil change on my 2.7L Bronco. That method works very well.

My Ford workshop manual did not say to install the filter element in the screw on housing first. I am not sure it would stay in there when you flip it over to thread it in. When I removed mine the filter stayed in the bottom part on the engine.

I put in 6.5 quarts and it is now right at the top of the hash marks (full). Mine was over-full from the factory. I am guessing they filled with 7 quarts at the factory.

Yeah it doesn't say it in words but I'm assuming this diagram means install it in the housing. I'm sure it's fine either way. One is probably optimal and the other is acceptable.

I put in 6 quarts and it was a little over filled. Yes it comes from the factory at 7 quarts. I'm guessing they expect the engine to burn some in the first 5k miles.

I'm glad it worked out for you.

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[Rydfree]

Interesting way to do it. How do you remove any residuals at the bottom of the pan? Dump it every other change?
Yeah it doesn't say it in words but I'm assuming this diagram means install it in the housing. I'm sure it's fine either way. One is probably optimal and the other is acceptable.

I put in 6 quarts and it was a little over filled. Yes it comes from the factory at 7 quarts. I'm guessing they expect the engine to burn some in the first 5k miles.

I'm glad it worked out for you.

I use the dipstick on all my vehicle oil changes for past 20 years. As long as you use the correct length tube it leaves nothing.

 

[TILNOR]

I use the dipstick on all my vehicle oil changes for past 20 years. As long as you use the correct length tube it leaves nothing.

That's awesome.

 

[Nibroc99]

Just did my first oil change since owning the vehicle yesterday (22 wildtrak 4dr), and even though I put my autozone drain pan in the right spot, the oil came out with so much velocity that or - like a beautiful brown fountain - waterfalled right into and back out over the side of the drain pan into my face. Which drain plug replacement should I get to limit flow? I even had the fill hole cap on and the filter housing still in place just to try to limit flow and it still came out way too fast all at once. The top of the drain pan even overflowed because the inlet for the "bottle" of the drain pan didnt have a big enough hole to let it drain fast enough LOL.
Would the ronin restrict flow a bit?

 

[jtgensler]

I've yet to do mine without making a mess lol.
Guess that's the one benefit of a gravel driveway, you just kick the gravel around to clean it up.

I'm thinking at my next oil change I'm gonna swap from the UPR plug to one of the ones with a hose barb so I can attach a drain tube.

 

[Nibroc99]

I've yet to do mine without making a mess lol.
Guess that's the one benefit of a gravel driveway, you just kick the gravel around to clean it up.

I'm thinking at my next oil change I'm gonna swap from the UPR plug to one of the ones with a hose barb so I can attach a drain tube.

I'm VERY grateful that this happened before my dad has a concrete pad laid down in our gravel driveway. Like you said, just kicked the gravel around a bit haha. we're havign the concrete laid next year so I need to find a solution before then, but I've got time at least!

I like the idea of a drain tube on a barb fitting. Hoping someone can chime in with the particular one they like so I don't have to be a beta tester for a cheap Chinesium one.

 

[FstFrd00]

Just control the oil flow by slowly removing the old plug and it'll be the cleanest change ever....

 

[Johnkn]

I'm VERY grateful that this happened before my dad has a concrete pad laid down in our gravel driveway. Like you said, just kicked the gravel around a bit haha. we're havign the concrete laid next year so I need to find a solution before then, but I've got time at least!

I like the idea of a drain tube on a barb fitting. Hoping someone can chime in with the particular one they like so I don't have to be a beta tester for a cheap Chinesium one.

UPR from Lethal Performance


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[23OBX2.7]

Just did my 2.7 change at 3000 miles and it was simple: removed valve cover cap, dip sick, oil filter, then just tipped the plug up to restrict flow for 45 sec and it's was mess free and quick. Plug went back in no issues trippel checked that it was secured and seated correctly. 6.5 -7 litres to full.

Used Pennzoil Euro Synthetic 5W40 and Ford filter which is same price as standard WIX and 2-3 MM taller.

 

[CarGuy]

Just did my 2.7 change at 3000 miles and it was simple: removed valve cover cap, dip sick, oil filter, then just tipped the plug up to restrict flow for 45 sec and it's was mess free and quick. Plug went back in no issues trippel checked that it was secured and seated correctly. 6.5 -7 litres to full.

Used Pennzoil Euro Synthetic 5W40 and Ford filter which is same price as standard WIX and 2-3 MM taller.

Why Euro and 5w40 instead of 5w30?

 

[Nibroc99]

Why Euro and 5w40 instead of 5w30?

Was going to ask the same thing. Using the thicker oil will likely cause cam phaser pressure issues.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Why Euro and 5w40 instead of 5w30?

It's the best 100% natural gas derived synthetic Pennzoil makes and I've always used it. Don't recall the details exactly something about more robust additive package, plus I always find it on sale for USD 40 for 5 quart jugs.

 

[CarGuy]

I believe Ultra Platinum is a grade above. Why 40 weight?

 

[Nibroc99]

Update 7/23/24: I've been running a cheap Amazon knock off Ronin-style plug for about 2 years now. No issues. It was $18 at the time but now shows unavailable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09P66T6CJ/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Updated 10/23/21: Now that I’ve fooled with this for the last few days I wanted to share some tips to hopefully save you the time that I’ve wasted changing the oil on my 2.7L for the first time. I thought I was prepared for everything but this engine is really different compared to others I’ve owned as far as the oil change and check procedure. If you’ve owned one before I’m sure this is obvious, but many of us are first time Ford owners so the eco boost is a new learning process.

First off reference this bulletin from right after the 2.7L came out in 2015:



The manual calls for 7 quarts. I was prepared to not use all of it due to previous reports. I bought 7 anyway just in case. I knew I needed to let it drain extra time and wait to check the oil level. But that still didn’t help me do it correctly.

First mistake: I didn’t open the filter housing before draining the oil. I made sure to wait for drainback prior to opening the plug, but apparently you need to do the filter first to allow the oil to drain from that area. Perhaps this contributed to my later issue.

Second mistake: After waiting 20-30 min for the pan to drain, I closed everything up and added 6 quarts. I waited 20 more min for the oil to reach the pan. (This is not a quick process when done correctly, more reason not to use a quick lane service.) I checked the dipstick and it was about halfway between the dots. Half quart low right? So I add a half quart. That’s a total of 6.5qts on a 7qt capacity engine. Figured I was safe and went about my business.

Fast forward a couple days and I check the level after it had been sitting in the parking lot at work all day. Had to check it about 3 times because the oil was still clean and the dipstick is different than I’m used to. It was definitely overfull. This is where I discovered the 2nd mistake that I didn’t realize I had made at the time. There is a crosshatched area on the dipstick and the normal “add” and ”full” dots. Well it turns out the top of the crosshatch is what you’re aiming for. The top dot is the “max” level.

So when I thought I was a half quart short while filling, it was probably good or already over even though I added less than engine capacity.

As you can see here if you go much past the top dot and near the twist in the dipstick, you’re almost completely filling the pan. This could cause the oil to foam and cause PCV issues and push oil past places you don’t want it to go. Would it be fine? Maybe, but long term I wouldn’t want to deal with an engine overfilled on oil.

So I drained oil back out this evening until it reached proper level. I don’t have an extractor so I slowly did it from the crappy yellow plug. Would have been much easier with one of the below replacement plugs that I plan to swap out in 4700 more miles. Hope this helps.

Original post:
I've been looking for a replacement for the plastic drain plug on the 2.7L oil pan. Wanted to share my findings in case others are looking as well.

RONIN

https://roninfactory.com/products/ford-f150-raptor-oil-drain-ronin-factory
$80 - free shipping
Billet aluminum
Single o-ring
Magnet
Barbed for Drain Tube
also available on Amazon

UPR

https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-ford-easy-oil-drain-valve-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer/
$60 + shipping
Billet aluminum
Double o-ring
Magnet
Barbed for Drain Tube
Also on Amazon

Also another version with no drain valve, just a replacement plug for $50
https://www.uprproducts.com/upr-ford-easy-oil-drain-plug-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer/

FEMCO

https://www.femco.com/product/ford-oil-plug/
$50 + shipping
Plastic
Single O ring
Magnet
barbed for Drain Tube
also on Amazon

FUMOTO

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...-drain-valve-for-fords-plastic-oil-pan.17923/
Update: Apparently dead/not put in production

DORMAN

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-133445-097-826hpcd.aspx
$10 + shipping on RockAuto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12646765&jsn=1481&jsn=1481
OEM replacement but features a downward drain hole that loosens with a flathead screwdriver
Plastic
Single O ring
No magnet or barbed hose fitting

Looks like there are a couple Ronin knockoffs on Amazon. One review said don't buy because it wouldn't lock into place. I wouldn't recommend them but wanted to share the info for anyone brave enough to try:
TZUTOGETHER
Amazon.com: TZUTOGETHER Oil Drain Plug Valve for 2015-2021 Ford F150 Raptor Mustang, Black

ISSYAUTO

$74 on Amazon.com
Member review below:

Just bought the UPR one, will report back on how it goes! New link to the one I just bought since the old link is broken:
https://www.uprproducts.com/product...-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco

It's the best 100% natural gas derived synthetic Pennzoil makes and I've always used it. Don't recall the details exactly something about more robust additive package, plus I always find it on sale for USD 40 for 5 quart jugs.

$40 for 5 quarts is quite high. I pay $28 or so for Mobil 1 full synthetic high mileage extended life 5 quart jugs at walmart. 5w-30 full synthetic. I do get the extended life oil but only go 5,000mi on oil changes.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Just bought the UPR one, will report back on how it goes! New link to the one I just bought since the old link is broken:
https://www.uprproducts.com/product...-for-mustang-f150-raptor-edge-explorer-bronco

$40 for 5 quarts is quite high. I pay $28 or so for Mobil 1 full synthetic high mileage extended life 5 quart jugs at walmart. 5w-30 full synthetic. I do get the extended life oil but only go 5,000mi on oil changes.

I used to work for Pennzoil many years ago went through all the deep training etc and they treated me well. I know it's 100% natural gas derived synthetic base stock far superior to VS hydro cracked oil base stock synthetic...not that it matters for civilian driving on 5000 mile intervals, not to mention I refuse to go to Walmart haha.

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