Wire management tips/suggestions?

[brkdncr]

Honestly you can use plain electrical tape and spiral it to make a permanent loom. Just knot it at the end.

the trick to long wires is to either shorten it at one end and re-pin it into the connector, or understand that the wire needs to go somewhere and put a service loop in.

I usually avoid drilling new holes for wire retention and try to reuse existing ones or use zip ties to anchor to existing looms.

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[DoingRaptorThings]

I was speaking with a friend this week who just got a new Bronco and we were talking through how to simplify wiring to be neater and easier to change. It's one of the first things I would do in a new Bronco.

1. If you need a bunch of relays for more amps than having a distribution board makes a lot of sense. I think this one is really cool for working with the factory upfitters. It has you put six upfitter wires into a single Deutsch Connector, which I think is really slick, but probably easiest on a new rig.
   
   https://www.voswitch.com/Voswitch-P...tput-Plug-and-Play-Installation-p2674078.html
   
   
2. The second option if you can run within the factory amperage on the upfitters is to standardize on using weatherpack connectors. You could make your own or do something like this (this is what we're using on my friends build).
   
   https://www.specialtyperformancepar...h-wire-extension-kit-with-connectors-numbered
   
   I would conect these solderless instead of crimping butt connectors - https://amzn.to/4tPhnpc

I think having all the positive leads consistent like this makes life a lot easier for future changes and then you can just terminate and strip the leads to your lights without having a ton of excess slack.

• I got a set of Weather Pack Connectors and have used them on a lot of projects now - https://amzn.to/3MWBLUX
• Amazon Weatherpack Crimpers - https://amzn.to/4b2ZVpS
• Then use split loom to combine, as feeding the non-split stuff is a huge PITA. https://amzn.to/3Or5eH2
  

 

[Brian_B]

I would also plug the local guy here, he has a nice wiring kit:
https://engineeredoffroadsystems.com/

 

[Phil B]

If you need a bunch of relays for more amps than having a distribution board makes a lot of sense. I think this one is really cool for working with the factory upfitters. It has you put six upfitter wires into a single Deutsch Connector, which I think is really slick, but probably easiest on a new rig.

https://www.voswitch.com/Voswitch-P...tput-Plug-and-Play-Installation-p2674078.html

I kind of wish you had not posted this. My wiring is very clean until you get to the rats nest of weather packs at the firewall. Now where is my credit card...

 

[Stillwater35]

I have the blaze bracket. 2 bus bars , one for six and one for the unpowered wires.
I also like to use rubberized hose routing clamps as they give soft circles to run wires through and on.

 

[Docindahouze]

Any tips for running wires up to the roof? I’m planning of running three or four sets of lights. Would like a cleaner way to run the woes up there.

 

[Brian_B]

Any tips for running wires up to the roof? I’m planning of running three or four sets of lights. Would like a cleaner way to run the woes up there.

If I recall correctly there's something in the Aftermarket Guide about running up the A-pillar and a notch in the weatherstripping to cut out.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...nt-install-guide-official.89188/#post-2165220

There's also some "roof mount" wiring kits that are available to run the wire up the windshield glass, then cover the wire with the kit so it stays tucked and looks neat. I don't have a link to one off hand though - but I bet the usual LED sales folks could help you out.

 

[HalfmuleFarmer]

I have the blaze bracket. 2 bus bars , one for six and one for the unpowered wires.
I also like to use rubberized hose routing clamps as they give soft circles to run wires through and on.

Prize winner so far!

 

[Stillwater35]

Thanks - I really didn't want to have to look up what color belongs to what up fitter anymore. I guess this solves that problem. I have the Genesis Offroad plate coming for over the fuse box and that's where a ground bar and Garmin power switch are going to go.

 

[Hopeless Diamond]

Honestly you can use plain electrical tape and spiral it to make a permanent loom. Just knot it at the end.

As someone had mentioned before, Tesa tape (or some knock off) is typically better for securing harnesses. It mainly just sticks to itself so it doesn't leave a slimy residue. Also, it doesn't stretch so you can make nice tight bundles. Actual harness tape doesn't have any adhesive and would typically be used before inserting into a split loom

 

[Dirtrider]

I currently have four light pods on my bumper, and four light pods on my a pillars (two on each side). While I feel like I've done a decent job routing the wires over to the up fitter switch wires in the engine bay, but I currently have what looks like a rat's nest of wires in that area. This is mainly due to the wiring harnesses being longer than necessary, but I don't really want to cut and shorten them. I was wondering if anyone here had any tips or suggestions on how they've organized their wiring. Right now I have everything bundled as much as possible and zip tied, but it still doesn't look pretty.

I make a Junction Box for the Upfitter Switch Connections. It uses WAGO 20A lever connectors for switches 2-6 and a 30A for Switch 1. I mounted to an unused ground wire Rivnut (apparently used on Lux package unfortunately) so I'm working on a version that mounts using the 'racetrack' hole to the right. Still a bit in development but I've been using it for several months.

 

[Brian_B]

I make a Junction Box for the Upfitter Switch Connections. It uses WAGO 20A lever connectors for switches 2-6 and a 30A for Switch 1. I mounted to an unused ground wire Rivnut (apparently used on Lux package unfortunately) so I'm working on a version that mounts using the 'racetrack' hole to the right. Still a bit in development but I've been using it for several months.

Some folks don't like wagos on automotive applications, but I think this is well done, and I admit to using them all over the place (wrapped in tape to keep the levers locked)

 

[Direvarg]

Any tips for running wires up to the roof? I’m planning of running three or four sets of lights. Would like a cleaner way to run the woes up there.

Go watch this video, it’s how I ran my wires. Up through the a Pilar and then around the weather stripping so there’s no drilling. You can use the bolt that the roof rack mounts to as a ground. He shows how to get to the roof around the 14 minute mark
I was able to run 3 wires on one side and 2 on the other powering three sets of lights and power going to my rooftop tent

 

[Dirtrider]

Some folks don't like wagos on automotive applications, but I think this is well done, and I admit to using them all over the place (wrapped in tape to keep the levers locked)

These are well protected and the levers can't open when in the slots. I used the exposed lever connectors (4 into 2 orange and blue in the picture) because I cut the wires too short when I initially wired it and before I made the junction box. (I hated the rats nest, that's why I designed the junction box) I've just been too lazy to extend the wires directly to the Junction box and get rid of the 4 into 2 lever connectors. I made two models of the junction box, one that has 3 wire WAGOs for switches 2-6 and one that has 5 wire WAGOs for switches 2-6. Both have 3 wire, 30A WAGOs for Switch 1.

 

[swamp2]

Some folks don't like wagos on automotive applications, but I think this is well done, and I admit to using them all over the place (wrapped in tape to keep the levers locked)

I used Wagos on the Engineered Off Road Systems Potable Water System. I read up on them significantly especially the vibration testing and it's thorough and convincing that they can take the abuse and be reliable.

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