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Not a gear head so explain to me 2.3 vs 2.7 . . .

MCG DAWG

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I'm sure the 2.7 upgrade will be a pricy option. Plus you lose the option to have a manual transmission.

If you upgrade you gain "only" 40hp (270 on 2.3, 310 on 2.7) but get 105 ft-lb more torque (295 vs 400)

If 95% of my use of this truck as a DD not towing anything is that hp/torque difference going to be that noticable? Am I going to be disappointed in my 2 door being under powered?

Initially I was upset I couldn't get the manual transmission in the 2.7 but the more time I've had to think about it I'm not so sure the 2.3 won't be just fine my 2 door and meet my needs. Plus save me some money and allow me to have the manual which I really desire. This truck will be my 11 year old sons in 5 years and I want a manual transmission so his friends can't likely drive it and he cant text and drive. Him being a little underpowered may not be a bad idea either.

My buddy at my local Ford dealership is going to let me come test drive a Ranger in a 2.3 if they have any available so I can get a feel for it.
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Does your daily drive involve merging onto highways or into traffic? Some extra torque will pop you into place.
A 2.3L with 270 hp and 310 lb-ft of torque has more power than most production cars / trucks.
 

wjfawb0 [hacked account]

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I've owned a lot of different cars and trucks. I test drove an Edge sport with the 2.7TT V also. there's a huge difference in everyday driving with the torque of the 2.7TT versus the 2.3T.

If you follow the mustang forums, the 10 speed auto 10R80 makes a GT mustang much faster at the drag strip than the MT82 6 speed manual. Around a half second or more in the 1/4 mile. That's great for drag racing, but for curves and car control, many still prefer the manual. I think the 10R80 pairs well with the the 2.3T, but I'm a manual transmission guy. I don't plan on drag racing an SUV. Not having the manual with the 2.7TT is very disappointing.
 

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MCG DAWG

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Does your daily drive involve merging onto highways or into traffic? Some extra torque will pop you into place.
I'm fortunate to live 2 miles from my office in a small pretty rural town in North Georgia. Heater can't get my ride warm before I get to work in in the winter.

That's another thing to consider with manual, I use remote start nearly every day to cool/warm my vehicle prior to me getting in it. Can't have remote start with a manual.
 

JimmyDean

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I'm fortunate to live 2 miles from my office in a small pretty rural town in North Georgia. Heater can't get my ride warm before I get to work in in the winter.

That's another thing to consider with manual, I use remote start nearly every day to cool/warm my vehicle prior to me getting in it. Can't have remote start with a manual.
You can, just aftermarket. Would suggest a neutral safety switch instead of just a clutch override.
 

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I'm fortunate to live 2 miles from my office in a small pretty rural town in North Georgia. Heater can't get my ride warm before I get to work in in the winter.

That's another thing to consider with manual, I use remote start nearly every day to cool/warm my vehicle prior to me getting in it. Can't have remote start with a manual.
Are you able to park in a garage? That really takes the chill out. I had a similar commute for a few years. I wore gloves, hat, and a coat in my car to work and then took them off when I got there. The heater was useless. :LOL:
 

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The towing capacity is the same for both motors, so the extra torque isn't going to help in that department. Honestly, if you plan this for a 16 year old, you may like the fact that it's a bit "under-powered" so it'll keep him out of trouble. Sounds like the extra ft-lbs. is not worth losing your desired setup.
 
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MCG DAWG

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Are you able to park in a garage? That really takes the chill out. I had a similar commute for a few years. I wore gloves, hat, and a coat in my car to work and then took them off when I got there. The heater was useless. :LOL:
For the past 17 years I have driven a full size truck that wouldn't fit in any garage I've owned. This will be a second vehicle for me and will get to live in the garage. That should help significantly. You from Toccoa Ga? I'm not far from there.
 

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if you are willing to tune you 2.3 you can get similar performance compared to the 2.7l


Ford Bronco Not a gear head so explain to me 2.3 vs 2.7 . . . r6ujes56j



However. That same tuning of the 2.7 would turn the bronco into a monster
 
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A 2.3 is a large 4-banger. A 2.7 is a TINY six cylinder.
Neither of those are true.

The 2.7T in the Silverado is a large 4-banger. The Cummins 4BT is a large 4 banger. The 2.3 is firmly medium.

Same with the 2.7. For years, many Fords came with a 2.5L Duratec V6, the successor to the 3.5L Cyclone and eventually the 3.5 EcoBoost. Most V6s today around right around 3.0L.

The Mazda 1.8L V6 in the MX-3 is a tiny V6.
 

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Neither of those are true.

The 2.7T in the Silverado is a large 4-banger. The Cummins 4BT is a large 4 banger. The 2.3 is firmly medium.

Same with the 2.7. For years, many Fords came with a 2.5L Duratec V6, the successor to the 3.5L Cyclone and eventually the 3.5 EcoBoost. Most V6s today around right around 3.0L.

The Mazda 1.8L V6 in the MX-3 is a tiny V6.
I was exagerating to make a point. All this consternation over .4L

Yes, 4 vs 6...I know. I just think the protest is overblown.
 

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Neither of those are true.

The 2.7T in the Silverado is a large 4-banger. The Cummins 4BT is a large 4 banger. The 2.3 is firmly medium.

Same with the 2.7. For years, many Fords came with a 2.5L Duratec V6, the successor to the 3.5L Cyclone and eventually the 3.5 EcoBoost. Most V6s today around right around 3.0L.

The Mazda 1.8L V6 in the MX-3 is a tiny V6.
Didn’t the Colorado come with a 2.9l 4 cylinder for several years?

2.7L is absolutely tiny for an American vehicle, I’m used to 6.0L, 8.1L, 6.2L etc.
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