12v outlets & power stations

[BRBlue]

I can confirm that this is an issue for the 12v outlet in the cargo area. I charged an EcoFlow Delta and it stopped working.

I tested the wiring harness for the outlet with a multimeter and got 12v DC but the outlet itself will not power anything. Mine appears to show melting as well.

According to EcoFlow it should only draw 10A which is well below the fuse rating for the outlet. I have confirmed that my fuses are fine so this is clearly a defective part and also a potential fire hazard.

I do not recommend plugging a fridge, power station, or anything substantial into this outlet.

Sponsored

 

[BlueWaffle]

I'll have to look at my plug.. I've done some power station (bluetti) charging using the 12v outlet but still functions.

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

I can confirm that this is an issue for the 12v outlet in the cargo area. I charged an EcoFlow Delta and it stopped working.

I tested the wiring harness for the outlet with a multimeter and got 12v DC but the outlet itself will not power anything. Mine appears to show melting as well.

According to EcoFlow it should only draw 10A which is well below the fuse rating for the outlet. I have confirmed that my fuses are fine so this is clearly a defective part and also a potential fire hazard.

I do not recommend plugging a fridge, power station, or anything substantial into this outlet.

Now I’m really concerned. No issues here, but have only charged my Bluetti maybe 4-5 times, it’s usually the Dometic which of course doesn’t run constantly and I must be well over 30 times running while driving.

What I have not done is try to run my fridge and charge my Bluetti at the same time. Wonder if that can overload the port, but somehow I bet it’s not an issue in other vehicles.

Sounds like a case for our venerable @Ford Motor Company friend to assist.

 

[bdunk]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement 12v outlet?

 

[BRBlue]

Does anyone have a recommendation for a replacement 12v outlet?

I replaced mine with this and it fixed my problem:

https://a.co/d/jgiv2lH

I had to sand a couple of small bumps but it fit otherwise. I recommend getting one that comes with the replacement tool so you can remove the old socket without pulling the entire assembly from the panel. Watch this video for instructions:

 

[BRBlue]

NOTE: I haven’t attempted to charge a power station with the new part but I at least have 12V again.

 

[604Bronco]

Hello 6G forum! First time posting. I took delivery of my 2023 Badlands this February and absolutely love the thing.

Last month I did a month-long overlanding trip out west. I was powering my Anker 757 via the rear 12v outlet, which powered my fridge among other things. I used the provided 12v cigarette lighter power cable that came with the Anker. It all worked great for the first 20 days or so of the trip and then both of the 12v outlets in my Bronco gave out. I’m no car expert but I did check the fuses and that wasn’t the issue.

Today I dropped it off at Ford since it’s still under warranty. They claim that maybe it won’t be covered under warranty.

My question is is this something I should have had an inverter for the whole time? I asked Anker how much power it draws via the 12v cable and they said 120w/hour at around 10a. Any insight or suggestions? Thanks!

Not sure we’ll hear back since you haven’t been on B6G for about a year, but what was the final outcome from Ford on this? What was the issue, and was it covered under warranty?

 

[redone17]

Factory socket uses 16 gauge wire. That’s the issue. My fridge would cut out and give an E1 error all of the time. No matter which battery protection setting I used.

The Bluetti on the other hand should NOT have been a problem…but, it was. Same issues you guys are having.

I installed the ARB socket that comes with 8-10 gauge wire directly to the battery. I was sick of not being able to depend on the factory 12v. This has been flawless and dependable all summer.

 

[BRBlue]

16 AWG wire at 12VDC can handle 10 Amps so that’s not the issue. It’s the socket itself that is melting. Guess I need to invest in a DC-DC converter or a separate socket like the ARB. Pathetic that Ford can’t get a simple thing like that right.

 

[Mjasi3]

Factory socket uses 16 gauge wire. That’s the issue. My fridge would cut out and give an E1 error all of the time. No matter which battery protection setting I used.

The Bluetti on the other hand should NOT have been a problem…but, it was. Same issues you guys are having.

I installed the ARB socket that comes with 8-10 gauge wire directly to the battery. I was sick of not being able to depend on the factory 12v. This has been flawless and dependable all summer.

Do you have a link? All I’m finding like this is arb specific outlets (for their fridges) and not a generic cigarette lighter outlet.

 

[Jamyers77]

Looks like this one.
https://store.arbusa.com/fridge-wiring-kit-10900027/

I found this thread after my power station threw an error while plugged in. Plug works for other items (work light) but seeing others w/ melted plugs freaks me out when I'm not working right there. I'm on the fence about getting a fast charger, hooking up to the battery and mounting near the original 12v. Currently looking at Pecron since I want one that's not brand specific.
https://www.pecron.com/products/pecron-500w-car-charger-dc1242-500-for-car-rv-van#ref=109

 

[redone17]

Do you have a link? All I’m finding like this is arb specific outlets (for their fridges) and not a generic cigarette lighter outlet.

Looks like this one.
https://store.arbusa.com/fridge-wiring-kit-10900027/
https://www.pecron.com/products/pecron-500w-car-charger-dc1242-500-for-car-rv-van#ref=109

That’s the correct part, but yes it’s a specific 2 prong connection and not a generic cigarette lighter. What you can do is remove the innards and replace it with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BQ1JYTX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you plan on charging a battery - this is probably the best solution:

https://www.bluettipower.com/produc...Wv-DhW8ZOCB67aKUft1o4mlkRuFkRoDoplwiFFatU4W6r

 

[Mjasi3]

That’s the correct part, but yes it’s a specific 2 prong connection and not a generic cigarette lighter. What you can do is remove the innards and replace it with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BQ1JYTX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you plan on charging a battery - this is probably the best solution:

https://www.bluettipower.com/produc...Wv-DhW8ZOCB67aKUft1o4mlkRuFkRoDoplwiFFatU4W6r

Thank you!

 

[Mjasi3]

That’s the correct part, but yes it’s a specific 2 prong connection and not a generic cigarette lighter. What you can do is remove the innards and replace it with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BQ1JYTX?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

If you plan on charging a battery - this is probably the best solution:

https://www.bluettipower.com/produc...Wv-DhW8ZOCB67aKUft1o4mlkRuFkRoDoplwiFFatU4W6r

I like the idea of the bluetti-charger-1 that it has vehicle battery protection. Then run the charger to a Station input. Will look into this and others like it further. thanks.

 

[gbub]

I have never used a power station in the 30 some years I have used my ARB refrigerator. I will admit I have needed a jump a few times when parked too long. Now, I carry a 100 watt solar panel for when I am going to be parked more than overnight. I also carry a NOCO power pack for emergencies.

With the concern over the 12V power port in the rear of our Broncos, I put my refrigerator in my Bronco today and plugged it into the power port. I initially ran it at the normal refrigerator temperature and monitored any heat build up in the port. It did not get any more than slightly warm. After an hour of that, I ran it at freezer temperature which requires it running a lot more. I checked the temperature inside and it was 12 F. Again the port never got more than slightly warm. The plug in the refrigerator was at a higher temperature but still was just warm.

I ran it all day long to see if it would drain the battery. At around 4PM I found the power port was no longer providing power. I started the engine to verify it did not drain the battery to a level that it would not start. It fired right up. I then when back to check the power port and it was again providing power to the refrigerator. This is what i was hoping would happen. My ARB refrigerator is so old it does not have the built in shut down to save the battery.

I also had the power port in my 2002 Ranger have a melt down when it was powering my refrigerator. I replaced it with a universal unit that looked to be better quality than the OEM unit. I had to replace the ARB power port plug too because it distorted from the heat. I never had any problems after the repair. I had enough confidence in it that I plugged a three way splitter into it and powered my refrigerator, CB and a lower power inverter that I could charge my phone and camera batteries.

Sponsored