2021 Ford F-150 Owners Are Already Facing Rust, Corrosion Issues

[AZshot]

You won't get this type of thread started by a mechanical engineer, or a mechanic for that matter. Maybe from a soccer mom, or people that seem to care more about nitpicking how the Bronco LOOKS for the past year. Or conjecture about how it WORKS, Rides, or feels, since nobody knew until rides started the past 6 weeks.

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[TJconvert2.7]

You won't get this type of thread started by a mechanical engineer, or a mechanic for that matter. Maybe from a soccer mom, or people that seem to care more about nitpicking how the Bronco LOOKS for the past year. Or conjecture about how it WORKS, Rides, or feels, since nobody knew until rides started the past 6 weeks.

If expecting a new vehicle to not look like Hurricane Sandy hit it after year one, then call me Karen sweetie. Now stand up straight!
#HardoAlert

 

[Rick Astley]

This hasn't hit the press wire yet, but I just went out and saw that there was rust on the brake rotor of my neighbor's F150.

I want ALL BRONCO OWNERS TO KNOW THEY NEED TO PAINT THEIR BRAKE ROTORS TO PREVENT RUST*!!!!!

This is a properly painted brake rotor, it won't rust through like the cheap factory finish will.

*your results may vary, this is not legally binding advice, perform at your own risk

 

[North7]

You won't get this type of thread started by a mechanical engineer, or a mechanic for that matter. Maybe from a soccer mom, or people that seem to care more about nitpicking how the Bronco LOOKS for the past year. Or conjecture about how it WORKS, Rides, or feels, since nobody knew until rides started the past 6 weeks.

Some of us Aerospace Engineers care about quality, workmanship and pride in our products and those that we buy.

If we did not, I don't think you would want to fly on the aircraft our systems are on.

When I started this thread I was simply passing along an article from a respected Ford publication website.

https://fordauthority.com/2021/03/2...are-already-facing-rust-corrosion-issues/amp/

 

[Hoofnmouth]

I live on the coast i hate rust

 

[AZshot]

Some of us Aerospace Engineers care about quality, workmanship and pride in our products and those that we buy.

If we did not, I don't think you would want to fly on the aircraft our systems are on.

When I started this thread I was simply passing along an article from a respected Ford publication website.

https://fordauthority.com/2021/03/2...are-already-facing-rust-corrosion-issues/amp/

Again, this is not a "rust problem". It's not about quality, workmanship, or pride either. It's about wrong expectations from a novice at materials, function, and how engineering is applied in production. We also don't know the conditions of that particular truck or trucks, the root cause, any corrective action. Was the differential overheated? Did it drive on salted roads? One thing I know from my experience is steel and cast iron will rust, forever and always (former USN here).
What kind of engineer are you? Nevermind, don't answer that, you sound like a whiner. I'm an Aerospace engineer with over 25 years at McDonnell Douglas, Boeing, Lockheed Martin, and Raytheon. I've worked on more manufacturing engineering before 8AM than you have time in the seat of your vehicles.

 

[North7]

Again, this is not a "rust problem". It's not about quality, workmanship, or pride either. It's about wrong expectations from a novice at materials, function, and how engineering is applied in production. We also don't know the conditions of that particular truck or trucks, the root cause, any corrective action. Was the differential overheated? Did it drive on salted roads? One thing I know from my experience is steel and cast iron will rust, forever and always (former USN here).
What kind of engineer are you? Nevermind, don't answer that, you sound like a whiner. I'm an Aerospace engineer with over 25 years at McDonnell Douglas, Boeing, Lockheed Martin, and Raytheon. I've worked on more manufacturing engineering before 8AM than you have time in the seat of your vehicles.

I'm hardly a "novice at materials, function, and how engineering is applied in production". You may have worked in manufacturing engineering but I've worked in systems engineering, project management and transitioning products to production at Aerojet, Hughes, Rockwell, United Technologies and Raytheon (former USAF here). I've had to resolve more engineering problems, before 8AM, in order to keep you from seeing them in manufacturing engineering, before you had your first cup of coffee.

Yes, cast iron will rust, but there are protective coatings, when properly applied, that allow some level of protection and appearance. There are examples of older Ford trucks not as rusted as the new one in this thread, obviously it is a batch problem that I'm sure Ford has manufacturing engineering looking for solutions to and not making excuses for.

 

[wvmtneer]

I'm hardly a "novice at materials, function, and how engineering is applied in production". You may have worked in manufacturing engineering but I've worked in systems engineering, project management and transitioning products to production at Aerojet, Hughes, Rockwell, United Technologies and Raytheon (former USAF here). I've had to resolve more engineering problems, before 8AM, in order to keep you from seeing them in manufacturing engineering, before you had your first cup of coffee.

Yes, cast iron will rust, but there are protective coatings, when properly applied, that allow some level of protection and appearance. There are examples of older Ford trucks not as rusted as the new one in this thread, obviously it is a batch problem that I'm sure Ford has manufacturing engineering looking for solutions to and not making excuses for.

So you work midnight shift?

 

[North7]

So you work midnight shift?

I cannot tell you how many nights I have worked until midnight. Other times I find myself waking up at 1am or 3am with an engineering issue on my mind and trying to come up with solutions to a design or project issue, no different than many other people's jobs.

 

[BigSteveO]

This! ........ Won't be an effective long term solution. Please note that I classify "long term" as longer than most (over 5 years, 15-20 years preferred). And the single best time to do an underbody seal is when a vehicle is brand new, not after 5-10 years of beating it around and having to strip off all the cheap junk you sprayed on there that didn't work.

Have mentioned this a few times on the Bronco forums, you're going to need a proper barrier and protectant which won't be rustoleum enamel.

While staying lower cost than Por-15 and providing excellent results that last, I would suggest Wurth high-build underseal spray.

https://www.autogeek.net/wuhibuunun.html

Living in New England dealing with snow and salt for 7-8 months out of the year, I use FLUID FILM as an undercoating. I have been very impressed with the performance. It is so good that it's hard to wash off, even with a pressure washer. It leaves a waxy film that is unaffected by road salt and it works great in hard to reach areas like inside doors and steel brake lines. The downside is you need to reapply annually.
Fluid Film link on YouTube

 

[NotApplicable]

Wow there are some high tensions in here. News flash: it’s possible to acknowledge that something looks terrible AND is preventable, but likely doesn’t affect the function of a given component. All can be true at the same time.

 

[wvmtneer]

I cannot tell you how many nights I have worked until midnight. Other times I find myself waking up at 1am or 3am with an engineering issue on my mind and trying to come up with solutions to a design or project issue, no different than many other people's jobs.

Ditto.

i was also on the MAD rotation for 2 years.
1 week Midnight
1 week Afternoon
1 week Day
Repeat.

 

[Razorbak86]

Wow there are some high tensions in here. News flash: it’s possible to acknowledge that something looks terrible AND is preventable, but likely doesn’t affect the function of a given component. All can be true at the same time.

It’s National Order Conversion Day. Peeps are just blowing off steam.

 

[Fly by Nite]

.....
Nothing else offers any real, deep-down corrosion protection once that layer of paint has been compromised by anything at all. One chip and it is rust. And that rust travels under the (non epoxy)primer and eats. Epoxy leaves the rust confined to that one chip area.
....

And that is where powder coating often fails..... one chip starts the process. Moisture wicks and works it's way under the coating, producing rust as it goes. Eventually the powder coat comes off in sheets. And internet folks are always saying how great powdercoating is. It has it's issues.

I like epoxy primer and urethane topcoats for my musclecar restorations (hobby). I rarely use the PaintOverRust products, prefer the sandblast/paint process.
Undecided if I will paint my Broncos underside to preserve it's appearance. Maybe I will try the quick route of scuff and a coat of POR type finishes. Eastwood has several chassis paints tho I often feel they are more hype than substance. Any suggestions?
I will definitely use Fluid film after i get a coating where I want it.

 

[broadicustomworks]

And that is where powder coating often fails..... one chip starts the process. Moisture wicks and works it's way under the coating, producing rust as it goes. Eventually the powder coat comes off in sheets. And internet folks are always saying how great powdercoating is. It has it's issues.

I like epoxy primer and urethane topcoats for my musclecar restorations (hobby). I rarely use the PaintOverRust products, prefer the sandblast/paint process.
Undecided if I will paint my Broncos underside to preserve it's appearance. Maybe I will try the quick route of scuff and a coat of POR type finishes. Eastwood has several chassis paints tho I often feel they are more hype than substance. Any suggestions?
I will definitely use Fluid film after i get a coating where I want it.

I have used Eastwood Chassis Black, you can apply fluid film over that once it has fully cured (I'd give it several days at minimum.)
I've used their rust encapsulator on the insides of boxed frames and doors, worked well (different product for a different application).
POR products require a very specific and completely adhered-to prep process (as you already know, I'm sure) that is not for the lazy or weak hearted! If it is not followed exactly, it will fail and peel off, often carrying layered sheets of rusty metal with it as it does.

I steer away from it, personally. Always found the Chassis black works well for my uses, easily touched up as needed.

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