260 miles and engine light started flashing and engine sputtering, fiels like it is not firing on all cylinders.

[Copper380]

OP, why in the hell would you not take it back to the dealer for a warranty claim? The truck has less than 300 miles on it, and you want to go chasing a misfire? If Ford has not changed its OBD II protocols in the past 20 years, misfires are indicated by either of two modes of the MIL (Malfunction Indictor Light - i.e. check engine light). A constant MIL indicates a misfire was detected but not present. A flashing MIL indicates the engine is running with one or more cylinder misfires and fuel can be passing through to the exhaust system and as @22OBX stated, can damage the catalytic converters.

Note that some manufacturers EFI systems cutoff fuel injectors on the cylinder with a constant misfire so as to prevent CAT damage; I'm not sure Ford has that function.

Well, easy there, I am going to take it in for service, but appointments are at least 14 days out. I live 20 miles from dealership. I was looking for suggestions for any known simple issues that would not require service so I can drive my Bronco. If it is not something simple that I can do I will have it towed. Hope that lowers your blood pressure a few points

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[Rednek]

I miss the days of being able to flash out codes without having a scan tool(i always carry one these days anyway)

 

[Copper380]

I take medicine for it, no worries.

But a misfire is most likely either a coil or an injector. Considering how early on the misfire came up, I'd bet it's a coil. Could be as simple has the coil wasn't fitted on the plug properly when the engine was assembled and just needs to be pushed back down on the plug. Or the coil went bad because it has a manufacturing defect. If you don't have a second car, I'd call the dealership and ask your Bronco get towed to the dealership and they give you a loaner considering the failure is just 300 miles into ownership.

Worst, a mouse chewed on a wire, which is an insurance claim.

Thank you sir

 

[JohnnyBronco]

Well, easy there, I am going to take it in for service, but appointments are at least 14 days out. I live 20 miles from dealership. I was looking for suggestions for any known simple issues that would not require service so I can drive my Bronco. If it is not something simple that I can do I will have it towed. Hope that lowers your blood pressure a few points

With 40+ dead engines on the forum which all would have thrown a misfire code as one or more valves dropped just trying to save you being stranded on the road with engine pieces on the ground.

If you ate having trouble getting an appointment then @Ford on here might be of some assistance

 

[JohnnyBronco]

I take medicine for it, no worries.

But a misfire is most likely either a coil or an injector. Considering how early on the misfire came up, I'd bet it's a coil. Could be as simple has the coil wasn't fitted on the plug properly when the engine was assembled and just needs to be pushed back down on the plug. Or the coil went bad because it has a manufacturing defect. If you don't have a second car, I'd call the dealership and ask your Bronco get towed to the dealership and they give you a loaner considering the failure is just 300 miles into ownership.

Worst, a mouse chewed on a wire, which is an insurance claim.

Had mouse damage on our 5 series BMW. Insurance paid for ECM from Germany plus all 6 injectors and coils.

But an additional misfire code reason can come from off reading and ripping the wires fro. The two O2 sensors. At 360 miles coils don't go bad, more like 150260 miles, and that became a constant replacement ritual on my LR3, got so good at it i could replace them right in the auto zone parking lot where I bought the new coils. Eventually did 5/8, but learned along the way how to repair wiring harness to the coils

 

[Bmadda]

Well, easy there, I am going to take it in for service, but appointments are at least 14 days out. I live 20 miles from dealership. I was looking for suggestions for any known simple issues that would not require service so I can drive my Bronco. If it is not something simple that I can do I will have it towed. Hope that lowers your blood pressure a few points

You won't get very far diagnosing it w/out a scan tool these days, but generally here's what I do...Ford misfire codes are P030X. The X typically denotes which cylinder missed...now it's not a single miss that sets a code...it's gotta cross the threshold set in the computer to throw the code, so the code wont return instantly. I pull the code, and mark the coil on that cylinder. then swap that coil to a different cylinder and clear the codes. depending on how intermittent the miss is you may have to drive it a while to get it to set the code again. If the CEL flashes while you are driving the code will have set in memory. If you then pull the code and it has moved to the cylinder you swapped the suspect coil to, then the coil is the problem. Same can be done for plugs or injectors, but you gotta try ONE THING AT A TIME to know for sure! Happy wrenching!

 

[Bmadda]

All great advice, but his Bronco has just 300 miles on it. Any of his work could be an excuse for Ford to deny a warranty claim. Reading the ECU is as far as I'd go with a brand new vehicle with just 300 miles on it. If it is a bad coil, it's on Ford to replace it for free. That's what the warranty is for.

Right...it's on Ford...However if the OP explains that he simply swapped coils from cyl to cyl to identify the problem, that's NO WHERE NEAR grounds for denying a warranty claim. Not saying this is what the OP SHOULD do, just that I see little harm if he wants to get it running right w/out the hassle. Clearly his dealership, like many, is being a pain. Drop it off and wait 2 weeks for a coil? Nonsense

 

[Copper380]

All great advice, but his Bronco has just 300 miles on it. Any of his work could be an excuse for Ford to deny a warranty claim. Reading the ECU is as far as I'd go with a brand new vehicle with just 300 miles on it. If it is a bad coil, it's on Ford to replace it for free. That's what the warranty is for.

I was basically hoping to hear something like.....

have heard a lot of people say a coil pack was loose and has to be seated,

or maybe.....

a particular wire connection is known to come lose just plug it back in.

Although I am very capable of working on it I will not dig into it further than simple things because it only has less than 300 miles on it and I shouldt have to do anything to it. Let's see what the scanner says when I get off of work. The only reason I am willing to push down on a coil pack or plug in a loose connection is for convenience.

 

[BrentC]

There is no MAF sensor on EcoBoost. They use a MAP sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)

Yes, my bad, and thanks for the correction. MAP. Too early in the morning when I typed that up!

 

[Copper380]

I thought I was lucky, 2.5 months from order to driving my 2022 Badlands Sasquatch High package. Now 260iles later it started sputtering bad at lower RPM and higher gears and engine light flashing. Feels like it is not firing on all cylinders. If it is a simple fix I would like to do it myself, really don't want to leave it at the dealership for any length of time.... any suggestions?

Well, I moved coil packs because I have a misfire on 1. Put one on 3 and 3 on 1..... no difference and no code change so I called and had my Bronco towed to the dealership..... I will advise as soon as I know

 

[22OBX]

Well, I moved coil packs because I have a misfire on 1. Put one on 3 and 3 on 1..... no difference and no code change so I called and had my Bronco towed to the dealership..... I will advise as soon as I know

I am going to update because the OP put the resolution on another post . The outcome of this was a failed spark plug strap that burned into falling into the cylinder. Most likely, because it was driven for a distance with flashing CEL, irreparable damage was done. I believe the OP was having the engine replaced.

 

[Copper380]

I thought I was lucky, 2.5 months from order to driving my 2022 Badlands Sasquatch High package. Now 260iles later it started sputtering bad at lower RPM and higher gears and engine light flashing. Feels like it is not firing on all cylinders. If it is a simple fix I would like to do it myself, really don't want to leave it at the dealership for any length of time.... any suggestions?

Well, I found out what the misfire was. Scanner said misfire on #1 cylinder so i did switch the #1 and #3 coil packs and the miss continued but did not change to #3. I had it towed to the dealer and hoped for the best, a spark plug at best or an injector at worst.

The following day I went to the dealer, I prefer face to face, and was informed it was a spark plug..... the ground electrode broke off and shredded the cylinder, piston top and head.

They ran a camera through the spark plug hole and found out what happened. The spark plug ground electrode had a clean burn line about 1/2 way through the thickness of the electrode, looks like it had a hairline crack and the heat caused it to break off (it did not break at the weld).

My salesman was all over it, looking into ways to get me taken care of and to speed up the process, the service guy was awesome as well looking for ways to get my Bronco back to me faster. They all bent over backwards to help me and got me a loaner car with 49 miles on it.

Thanks Donald and Aaron at Waldorf Ford, they definitely made this difficult day bearable.

Freak thing, not a mechanical failure due to shoddy work or poor design.... just a freak thing so there is no one to be upset with.

Not the dealerships fault and not the service manager or salesmans fault and not Ford's fault... no sense taking it out on them, staying positive and waiting on my new engine!

Unlike waiting for it to arrive I can at least go look at it and sit in it if I want.... lol

I am going to update because the OP put the resolution on another post . The outcome of this was a failed spark plug strap that burned into falling into the cylinder. Most likely, because it was driven for a distance with flashing CEL, irreparable damage was done. I believe the OP was having the engine replaced.

I did try to post the update here but I was very tired and probably screwed it up but your assumption that the damage was done because it was driven a distance with a flashing CEL is not correct. The damage was done instantly at the RPM's the engine was at as I was accelerating onto the highway from a merge lane. A foreign object dropping g into a cylinder at those RPM's is instant irreparable damage. If I had it towed from there the result would have been the same. Besides the warning I got from my Ford app said it was likely a fuel issue. It did not say to shut it down. I have driven many a car that started misfiring and at no time was it because a sparkplug dropped the ground electrode into the cylinder. This is a freak thing and nothing more. There was no strange noise like a valve being dropped or struck by the piston or any odd engine noise, it was a simple sputter of a misfire. I have been working on cars since the 1970's and if there was any strange noise I would have shut it down immediately but a piece of metal less than 1/4 " long but still big enough to damage the piston and head was not making noise in the cylinder that could be heard.

There is a lot of great advice on this forum but there is also a lot of bitching and assumptions made by people that were not there. Stick with the advise leave the conclusion to fact not assumption.

No hard feelings, good day

 

[22OBX]

Well, I found out what the misfire was. Scanner said misfire on #1 cylinder so i did switch the #1 and #3 coil packs and the miss continued but did not change to #3. I had it towed to the dealer and hoped for the best, a spark plug at best or an injector at worst.

The following day I went to the dealer, I prefer face to face, and was informed it was a spark plug..... the ground electrode broke off and shredded the cylinder, piston top and head.

They ran a camera through the spark plug hole and found out what happened. The spark plug ground electrode had a clean burn line about 1/2 way through the thickness of the electrode, looks like it had a hairline crack and the heat caused it to break off (it did not break at the weld).

My salesman was all over it, looking into ways to get me taken care of and to speed up the process, the service guy was awesome as well looking for ways to get my Bronco back to me faster. They all bent over backwards to help me and got me a loaner car with 49 miles on it.

Thanks Donald and Aaron at Waldorf Ford, they definitely made this difficult day bearable.

Freak thing, not a mechanical failure due to shoddy work or poor design.... just a freak thing so there is no one to be upset with.

Not the dealerships fault and not the service manager or salesmans fault and not Ford's fault... no sense taking it out on them, staying positive and waiting on my new engine!

Unlike waiting for it to arrive I can at least go look at it and sit in it if I want.... lol
I did try to post the update here but I was very tired and probably screwed it up but your assumption that the damage was done because it was driven a distance with a flashing CEL is not correct. The damage was done instantly at the RPM's the engine was at as I was accelerating onto the highway from a merge lane. A foreign object dropping g into a cylinder at those RPM's is instant irreparable damage. If I had it towed from there the result would have been the same. Besides the warning I got from my Ford app said it was likely a fuel issue. It did not say to shut it down. I have driven many a car that started misfiring and at no time was it because a sparkplug dropped the ground electrode into the cylinder. This is a freak thing and nothing more. There was no strange noise like a valve being dropped or struck by the piston or any odd engine noise, it was a simple sputter of a misfire. I have been working on cars since the 1970's and if there was any strange noise I would have shut it down immediately but a piece of metal less than 1/4 " long but still big enough to damage the piston and head was not making noise in the cylinder that could be heard.

There is a lot of great advice on this forum but there is also a lot of bitching and assumptions made by people that were not there. Stick with the advise leave the conclusion to fact not assumption.

No hard feelings, good day

I was just trying to close out the thread. Yes, it could have caused immediate, damage but I recently had a valve drop into a 5.4 and it did not do irreparable damage because it was shut down immediately. There is no way for us to know for sure if it was instant or not but I can guarantee it didn't help to limp home ( it started about 5 miles from home so I gently limped it home ) with a flashing CEL. Every Ford vehicle I have owned the manual says pull over immediately if CEL is flashing. Anyway, glad they are going to get it sorted and replace your engine. Sorry it happened and hope I don't have a similar issue with a bad plug or potential turbo issue melting the plug electrode. I wanted to close out the thread for future posters that may have the same issue, they can see what the resolution was. That's it.

 

[Copper380]

I was just trying to close out the thread. Yes, it could have caused immediate, damage but I recently had a valve drop into a 5.4 and it did not do irreparable damage because it was shut down immediately. There is no way for us to know for sure if it was instant or not but I can guarantee it didn't help to limp home ( it started about 5 miles from home so I gently limped it home ) with a flashing CEL. Every Ford vehicle I have owned the manual says pull over immediately if CEL is flashing. Anyway, glad they are going to get it sorted and replace your engine. Sorry it happened and hope I don't have a similar issue with a bad plug or potential turbo issue melting the plug electrode. I wanted to close out the thread for future posters that may have the same issue, they can see what the resolution was. That's it.

Dropping a valve sounds a hell of a lot different than a simple misfire (glad you did not have to have your engine replaces). I am not arguing with you but you are hell bent on justifying your stance. Sometimes you have to say, you know what, that makes sense and I wasn't there to pass judgment and let it go. I did immediately pull over and my notification through Ford pass said i had a misfire, the likely cause and what action to take. Seeing i have a few years experience and the modern system advised me of suggested actions i did decide to limp it home, also considering the amount of time to wait on a tow and needing to be up for work in 6 hours. Thank you for your response, policing my thread, pointing out my errors, your superior analysis and ensuring a proper follow up to my thread where my lack of attention in a timely manner created an atmosphere of anxious anticipation due to my irresponsibly slow response to your request for closure.

Again, no hard feelings, I just think it is getting ridiculous on how I simply asked for a possible cause and if anyone k ew of reoccurring issues and possible quick fix due to it being Friday night and the service center would not be open until Monday and appointments as much as 14 days out.

I do appreciate the responses and advice. Smile, no hard feelings, take it for what it is and have a good night. I look forward to future interactions but hopefully not for issues with my Bronco.

 

[22OBX]

I don’t know why you would have hard feelings for people trying to help and also warn others that have 2.3’s it could be an reoccurring issue. I was advising shut down, because I have years of experience building cars and engines as a hobby and it is what all the Ford manuals I have read state Flashing CEL - Severe Misfire- shut down or severe engine damage could occur. I don't know when the severe damage occurred on yours but if it saves someone a engine in the future it was worth posting . I never meant to offend you. Welcome to Bronco 6g, that’s what we do, we try and help each other.

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