37" Tires on a Non-Sasquatch Badlands - My Experience, Results, Pics

[TeocaliMG]

Hey guys, I finally decided to join the big tire club. **Some clearance issues**
(See video at bottom of post)

First things first, I got the non-sasquatch for a specific reason (aside from the manual) it has more wheel travel. So naturally I was concerned I might see more clearance issues than your typical sasquatch equipped bronco.

Before pulling the trigger on tires, and possibly wheels I wanted to see what clearance issues I might run into. So I created a 3D printed tire clearance gauge, specifically for my 33" KO2. The gauge includes a 37"x12.5" tire offset profile, that can slide to the side to simulate variable wheel offset. (I will post a video on that later).

This gauge found the usual suspects, crash bars and frame (with 55mm offset). It also found the UCA, which surprised me a bit. Ultimately it became clear that if I wanted to run 37's I needed less than 55mm offset. I absolutely refuse to go negative, (every time someone goes lower than 0mm offset, a chassis engineer dies). 0mm is where I draw the line and unfortunately that's apparently where beadlock manufacturers draw the line too. So I was stuck between RTR's sexy wheels with 30mm offset, or 0mm beadlocks. I was in denial for weeks, but ultimately, I realized my heart was set on beadlocks.

I spent a lot of time researching tires. I know everyone has their favorites, but my short list was: KM3, Mickey Baja Boss, Nitto Trail Grappler, Cooper STT Pro, and MAXXIS RAZR. I always like to be the odd one out, and since everyone runs all those but the MAXXIS, and since the MAXXIS also had no faulty reviews (and were excellent in my MTB experience) I decided on the RAZRs. Just as I decided on the RAZR's I discovered that its more aggressive big brother the Trepador had a tamer well-mannered radial variant. Aptly named the Trepador Radial. SOLD.

As for beadlocks, I made a spreadsheet, compared styles on other rigs and prices yada yada, nobody cares. I went with Black Rhino Avenger Beadlocks (Gray). Honorable mention to the Black Rhino Primm and shoutout to AEV making what I found to be the most affordable Beadlock (just not my style)

Set them up myself (doable but slow going). Having great success with balance beads!

To the point, here are the before and after pics:

And the post test Money Shot:

I was a bit disappointed to learn that my gauge was not perfect. Either my radius was just a bit off, or the tire profile, or likely a bit of both. The Trepadors on 0mm offset did rub the rock rail, not undrivable, but bad enough that it needed addressing soon. Also, at full lock the tires just graze the wheel liner near the bottom, nothing I am going to worry about at this time.

What about at full jounce? I tested that both with a gauge and the tires and found that if I am going to be seriously wheeling, I better remove the fender flares. I don't care about those though, the BIG question is did I hit body/fender? Somewhat. See update on page 2

note: picture below not at quite at full jounce

Would I hit body if I jumped it while turning? Probably. So I won't do that, and neither should you.

So how do the new tires perform? Great! Well, isn't the bronco already great? Yes! Thats why I performed a back-to-back comparison on the farm.

Trigger warning, I forgot to disable the proximity sensor, it's not too bad from the driver's seat but holy cow my phone speaker picked it up. I am not a professional video editor, so just be ready to adjust the volume at certain points. I will shut it off for future videos!





Let me know if you'd like to see me find or build some more obstacles on the farm!

I will add to the post tomorrow detailing how I trimmed the rock rails (very easy and no more rubbing!)

Sponsored

 

[Jdyount]

Have a few predictions here:

1. It's only a matter of time before those inner fenders live their last. First major wheeling trip and they'll be spit out by the tire, 110%.

2. You're gonna be into the fenders. I've been in fully stuffed, 2 tire situations with my SAS BL and the stock 35's look like they're gonna eat the flares. 37's + non-SAS + no lift = body damage, I'll bet you $100 right now.

 

[TeocaliMG]

Rock Rail Trim:
Like I mentioned above, this is the only clearance issue that needs addressing immediately. The fender flares can be removed for offroading, and the wheel liner just barely gets grazed at full lock.

Removal is surprisingly easy! I started by backing off the small nuts along the pinch weld, then backed out the larger bolts holding the brackets down.

Once off, I cleaned up the area around the end forward end caps to see what we were dealing with. You can clearly see where the plastic end cap had been polished up by the tire already.

Holding the endcap in is one torx fastener, one Christmas tree style plug, and the friction/interference fit of the cap itself. I was careful with the removal of the tree plug so I could reuse it, but probably best to replace if you have spares lying around. I used a small screwdriver to spruce up the plastic fins of the tree plug and end cap before reinstalling.

I didn't need much clearance, judging by the scuffing, I might have been fine with a quarter inch, but I only wanted to do this once, and know that the control arm bushings are compliant, I didn't want to crash my tire into the rock rail if I ever took a bigger hit than expected, especially with wheels in motion. I settled on 1 inch, actually 25mm. With my calipers locked, I scribed a line in the paint all the way around and traced it best I could with a thin cut-off wheel on my grinder. I also scribed the location of the new holes to be drilled. The cut actually came out excellent, didn't have any major corrections to do.

Before putting everything back together I wanted to clean up the surface of the cut, and spray on some enamel just to help dissuade any rust getting an easy start here. Also drilled the new holes and coated those as well.

New holes, and new assembly.

Plenty of clearance now!

 

[TeocaliMG]

Have a few predictions here:

1. It's only a matter of time before those inner fenders live their last. First major wheeling trip and they'll be spit out by the tire, 110%.

2. You're gonna be into the fenders. I've been in fully stuffed, 2 tire situations with my SAS BL and the stock 35's look like they're gonna eat the flares. 37's + non-SAS + no lift = body damage, I'll bet you $100 right now.

If we're placing bets, lets be clear. When you say inner fender, are you talking wheel liner? or the actual fender/quarter panel? I wont be surprised if I rip out my wheel liner at some point, but i'm clear to the quarter panel, and will be removing the flares if I am planning something hardcore.

Wheel offset makes a difference too. Too much and you have clearance issues, too little and you have clearance issues. I think the sweet spot is between +30 and 0, so that may already explain some of the differences between what you and I have seen.

And believe me, ADV's high clearance fenders are on the radar... but I am not planning on jumping this rig, stuffing my bump stops to zero with anything above 5° steering wheel angle.

 

[Jdyount]

If we're placing bets, lets be clear. When you say inner fender, are you talking wheel liner? or the actual fender/quarter panel? I wont be surprised if I rip out my wheel liner at some point, but i'm clear to the quarter panel, and will be removing the flares if I am planning something hardcore.

Wheel offset makes a difference too. Too much and you have clearance issues, too little and you have clearance issues. I think the sweet spot is between +30 and 0, so that may already explain some of the differences between what you and I have seen.

And believe me, ADV's high clearance fenders are on the radar... but I am not planning on jumping this rig, stuffing my bump stops to zero with anything above 5° steering wheel angle.

I'm talking about the liners, you get a good coat of mud on those tires, they're gone.

It's a little hard to test full up-travel without ramping (a ditch only goes so far). I think you're probably going to run into more issues than you think.

I guess I'm not sure what your resistance is to a lift. You say you went non-SAS for more travel, but if your travel is limited by your tire's clearance then you have a bigger issue, not to mention issues you are going to have when your tire is stuffed and you're at full lock either direction.

 

[TeocaliMG]

I'm talking about the liners, you get a good coat of mud on those tires, they're gone.

It's a little hard to test full up-travel without ramping (a ditch only goes so far). I think you're probably going to run into more issues than you think.

I guess I'm not sure what your resistance is to a lift. You say you went non-SAS for more travel, but if your travel is limited by your tire's clearance then you have a bigger issue, not to mention issues you are going to have when your tire is stuffed and you're at full lock either direction.

It aint my first Rodeo, but you are right to be generally conservative. But I think way more people get lifts for "tire clearance" than are necessary, especially for 35's

Mud in that ditch on the farm was nasty too, not the worst in the world but those Trepadors clear pretty good anyway and I didn't even get them spinning properly.

I also agree that a ditch test is not adequate, that was more to show the fender flare issue. I have had it 2 wheeled up on a rock, and checked lock to lock, no problem, I will take a video this weekend of that. Obviously, you can stuff further in a jump on the bump stop but that's also a more limited clearance condition.

I didn't buy 37's before doing these sanity checks, and there are multiple people rocking 37's on their SAS Broncos, the only thing I am doing different is adding a bit more jounce travel to the mix, which has not been the limiting case in any of those documented scenarios.

 

[Sparkherd]

L-U-V to see somebody try that with those SAS Goodyears...sinking to China!!!

 

[rmanecke]

As a non SAS BL owner - I really appreciate the detailed write ups of these tire experiments with results and all the ongoing corrections and tweaks. Thanks!!!

 

[WonkyBronky]

Good work with the trials and 3D printed template.

But what's the purpose of switching to heavy 37's here that will have clearance issues if used to full potential? Need the extra height?

 

[TeocaliMG]

Good work with the trials and 3D printed template.

But what's the purpose of switching to heavy 37's here that will have clearance issues if used to full potential? Need the extra height?

Mainly to see exactly what those clearance issues are, and how they can be effectively addressed.

New high clearance fenders, and a nice suspension lift is not off the table, but I figured I would start with the new tires. Already it's clear that most clearance issues have been over exaggerated. I will be taking this to Bundy Hill next weekend and running the Colosseum. We'll see how it goes!

 

[Rkgzx9leftcoast]

Nice write up. Good for you trying this out. I have Maxxis RAZR ATs 37s on my stock Basequatch (stock rims)and love them. I can tell you I ran 2, 7 -rated trails at Trail Hero in Sand Hollow Utah a few weeks ago, and the tires were awesome.

I was with mostly Jeeps, though I did run Plan B with a First addition on 37s and King shocks. The jeep guys were great, and were impressed with the Bronco. I think the ATs run a little smaller than other 37s, even other Maxxis tires. Only rub issue I had was on extreme off camber stuff, but it wasnt Bad.

Keep up the good work.

 

[Rkgzx9leftcoast]

I will add, I have no intention of putting a 3in lift on mine. I do not like all the other issues it brings up. I have a 1" front level kit, I have not put on, but I think I may go with Bilstiens 6100 shocks, with the perch collars set to level the front, or maybe 1/2" more than level at most.

I think the least amout of lift to provide most of the tire clearance you need is best.

 

[Tricky Dick]

I've seen a pic already where fenders got crunched from too much poke and a hard landing. I would recommend not getting any air with this setup.

 

[TeocaliMG]

I will add, I have no intention of putting a 3in lift on mine. I do not like all the other issues it brings up. I have a 1" front level kit, I have not put on, but I think I may go with Bilstiens 6100 shocks, with the perch collars set to level the front, or maybe 1/2" more than level at most.

I think the least amout of lift to provide most of the tire clearance you need is best.

This is the way to go IMO, aside from a full blown overhaul of the suspension, just adding a touch of preload via perch collars and modestly upgrading the shocks can go a long way.

 

[TeocaliMG]

I've seen a pic already where fenders got crunched from too much poke and a hard landing. I would recommend not getting any air with this setup.

Can you share the pic, i'd like to see the set up?

Honestly, I don't really plan to jump it anyway, Jumps/speed is way harder on everything than rock crawling or rugged trail riding. That said, I absolutely intend to just my full jounce travel, including the bump stop at full flex. I will test more this weekend and report back.

Sponsored