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4x4 Class 101 (Saving Broncos from Permanent Mall Crawler Duty)

Mgro

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Question about GOAT modes: if I’m not
Not mistaken, which I might be, you’d typically shift to Neutral to go into 4L or lock diffs, when switching goat modes, do you need to be in Neutral? Also, wrt manually going into 4L or locking diffs, Is there anything to prevent the sequence from starting if you accidentally hit a button and you’re in Drive?
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jakefoley

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#1 Most important asset for a beginner is a buddy with a tow strap. Never off-road alone unless you have experience and plenty of tools.
I just bought a tow strap and some rope shackles. Is there anything else you would suggest purchasing for newbies? Recovery boards, shovel, etc? Not sure how often I plan to get out on ORV parks and trails but will soon find out!
 

JPG

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I just bought a tow strap and some rope shackles. Is there anything else you would suggest purchasing for newbies? Recovery boards, shovel, etc? Not sure how often I plan to get out on ORV parks and trails but will soon find out!

First Aid kit. Shovel is ok ( no need for a 200$ off road shovel, by one at an Army surplus that folds ), recovery boards are Meh, most of them are no good after the first use, the plastic teeth that are supposed to grip break or meld because of the spinning tires.
 
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AllthePonies

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This is an excellent thread. I’m glad I stumbled across it. The only thing that I didn’t find was a good explanation on when to use the crawler gear versus first, second, etc. on trails.

I’m guessing the crawler gear is for significant rock obstacles, deep ruts, or other very challenging terrain. Kind of like 4L or using a locker.

It seems like you would generally drive around in 1st/2nd/3rd otherwise depending on the trail and speed as you would normally with a manual.

I’m planning to go to an off rodeo so that might help, but I guess I want to have an idea prior to doing something stupid on a trail and getting myself in a jam.

Can anyone with knowledge or experience help out here?
 

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Crawler is especially helpful when the "ultimate" slow speeds are needed and precise throttle control helps negotiate a particularly tough obstacle. At Off-Roadeo, it was used in some instances and it was very cool to see the manual equipped Broncos just idle on the trail while moving forward without stalling.
 

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redone17

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Are they providing Manuals at Off-Rodeo again?
 

redone17

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I don’t know, I went this summer in TX and they did.
Ah. Yeah, I think they’ve been pulled since then. That’s why I took a course at Nora 4x4 in Ellenville, NY. This way I could learn on my 7MT Bronco.
 

VictoryLights

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Are soft shackles safe to use on the factory tow points? I’ve heard that you can’t use them on sharp toe points.
 

Mattwings

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Are soft shackles safe to use on the factory tow points? I’ve heard that you can’t use them on sharp toe points.
I know I have used them off the rear and I think the fronts as well. I can check tomorrow, but I think they are radiused a bit.
 

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Cat

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Learn about airing down your tire for off road use. 18 lbs is ok for all the tire sizes the Bronco comes in. The correct or best pressure is highly dependent on weight of your vehicle. Some add winches, armor, and etc. the type of terrain also plays a big factor in good air down pressure. There is a difference between rocks and sand, etc.

So I am comfortable in saying 18psi is a starting point. Many people go 14 with no problem. I say beginners don’t go under 18 till you learn more.

You need tire deflators to do the job easily

Two main versions of deflator. Do your research, these are just an idea. I am not saying to purchase these specifically.

These are individual types. Screw them on and they stop at pre set pressure. Once aired down remove them and go wheeling.

4C052EA2-FE54-4CDB-9589-D070427CA170.jpeg


Second version is one tire at a time that captures and removes the valve. Air down to what pressure you want and reinsert the captures valve. Much faster but one wheel at a time so it takes same time to do all 4 tires.

69B98C7F-4B24-46BE-AA02-CDE232EEB1D4.jpeg
Thank you...ordered some Stauns auto tire deflators.
 

UtahBrandon

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In what cases would you use (or not use) a kinetic strap versus a tow strap? Is one more important than the other with respect to being one of the first pieces of recovery gear you should buy?
 
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Cat

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Great question. Here's my limited understanding.

Tow rope when a really stuck rig needs a good yank/snatch to get it unstuck. No stretch...and, towing of course.

Kinetic rope when you want to ease into tightening the rope and have a smoother pull-out. It absorbs energy, therefore making it easier on both rigs.

I am getting both.
 

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In what cases would you use (or not use) a kinetic strap versus a tow strap? Is one more important than the other with respect to being one of the first pieces of recovery gear you should buy?
Use a kinetic rope to get the vehicle unstuck. Use a tow rope once unstuck and towing if disabled. The kinetic rope increases the pulling force and is easier on both vehicles.
 

Sunny

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Yep... and I'm also looking forward to seeing what the Ford SYNC 4 trail mapping navigation system has to offer. Anyone have a Ford vehicle that has this?
I've not even heard of it before...is it an option when ordering?
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