How did you do the rear tilt front/back on the rear door? I don't have bolt heads on the ones the go into the frameI have done both passenger side doors—they were straight with each other but not the body of the Bronco. I also tried to do the rear tailgate, but didn't make it any better.
The doors are easy. Don't have to remove any trim or anything, but I did take the door completely off the first time just to see what the heck I was doing. The up/down/in/out is handled by the 3 bolts on the door itself—two on the top hinge, one on the bottom hinge. The tint/forward/backward adjustment is handled by the four bolts that attach the door hinge to the frame. Easy. Make sure you remove the striker and re-align that as well so it doesn't mess with you. There was a few times I had the door perfectly aligned, only to have the striker shift it back to where it was prior to my adjustments.
The tailgate you have to remove some trim pieces and the rear-right taillight to get at the bolts. Obviously the weight of the door itself makes it a little harder to adjust, and in the end, I couldn't make it any better than what they had from the factory. Then I got frustrated, gave up, and just put it back together.
Rear passenger doors or the tailgate?
It's behind the B-pillar trim panel.Rear passenger
Older post I realize but need to adjust my rear passenger door. it’s about 1/8th to 1/4 inch too far out from the front door/body lines. Dealer wants to send it to a body shop with 3 day turnaround. The hinge adjustment appears straightforward however, the Striker “adjustment“ has me baffled? Honestly, I don’t see any adjustment via the striker?? Can anyone clarify if the striker is actually adjustable?I have done both passenger side doors—they were straight with each other but not the body of the Bronco. I also tried to do the rear tailgate, but didn't make it any better.
The doors are easy. Don't have to remove any trim or anything, but I did take the door completely off the first time just to see what the heck I was doing. The up/down/in/out is handled by the 3 bolts on the door itself—two on the top hinge, one on the bottom hinge. The tint/forward/backward adjustment is handled by the four bolts that attach the door hinge to the frame. Easy. Make sure you remove the striker and re-align that as well so it doesn't mess with you. There was a few times I had the door perfectly aligned, only to have the striker shift it back to where it was prior to my adjustments.
The tailgate you have to remove some trim pieces and the rear-right taillight to get at the bolts. Obviously the weight of the door itself makes it a little harder to adjust, and in the end, I couldn't make it any better than what they had from the factory. Then I got frustrated, gave up, and just put it back together.
Way to revive this one! Seriously though I’ve come to the realization that with doors designed to be removable that the gaps will always be off. If they’re so bad that the doors are contacting the body and causing damage then yes definitely adjust them. A three day turnaround especially with being subbed out sounds great! The striker clasp inside the door may be the adjustment point because I agree that the striker rod mounted to the body looks immovable.
