ARB Twin Air Compressor and Pressure Control Kit Install

[Merc4x4]

I finally got around to installing the KR Air Coupler Switch Bracket and ARB Pressure Control Kit. I went overboard ordering hoses and couplers from @4x4TruckLEDs.com, but in the end only needed what is listed below to achieve a clean install.

Parts List:
ARB On-Board Twin Air Compressor
ARB Pressure Control Kit
KR Off-Road ARB Compressor Engine Bay Mount
KR Off-Road ARB Compressor & Air Coupler Switch Bracket
ARB Air Hose Coupler (JIC-04 37 Degree Flare Fitting)
ARB Air Hose Coupler Dust Cap
ARB Reinforced Hose JIC-04 0.5m
ARB Reinforced Hose JIC-04 0.3m
ARB Adapter 1/8 BSP (M) JIC-04 (M), 2 Pack
ARB Adapter 1/4 NPT(M) JIC-04(M), 2 Pack - Only 1 required
ARB Air Line Adapter Fitting 45 Elbow, 2 Pack - Only 1 required

Please note, due to the configuration of the ports on the ARB regulator I was unable to have the input and output hoses on the same side, so the layout is a bit more spread out than I would have preferred. Also, the spot where I mounted the regulator needed to be twisted a bit so the pressure sensor would clear the coupler. Finally, the screw I used for the regulator mount was a bit too long, so I used four washers to take up the extra space.

Initially I planned on using the supplied ARB switch, but I decided to forgo that idea because using the upfitter switches made for a cleaner install.

I ordered all the parts on your list and followed your pictures to match your install. Thanks! It greatly cut down on the time I spent.

*** It looks like you're using a 90* fitting on the compressor, but it is not in your parts list. I ended up using the second 45* connector and one of the extra adapters. ***

I added a Weather Pack connector to the Air Pressure Control power lead near the other Compressor connectors to aid in removal of the system. I wrapped the Pressure Control power lead and Compressor trigger harness together to make a single harness. I used a Weather Pack connector on the Bronco Aux Switch lead (doubling the Compressor trigger and Pressure Control hot to 1 single Weather Pack. I routed the 2 harnesses along an existing harness across the firewall.

I velcro-ed the Pressure Control computer to the top of the @4x4TruckLEDs.com mount.

I used this cloth fabric tape to make my harness for Pressure Control hot and Compressor trigger.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYZDN2X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this Weather Pack kit for connections.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CN99TCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And some self adjusting wire strippers to save some aggravation.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OQ21CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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[jacobrdoty]

I ordered all the parts on your list and followed your pictures to match your install. Thanks! It greatly cut down on the time I spent.

*** It looks like you're using a 90* fitting on the compressor, but it is not in your parts list. I ended up using the second 45* connector and one of the extra adapters. ***

I added a Weather Pack connector to the Air Pressure Control power lead near the other Compressor connectors to aid in removal of the system. I wrapped the Pressure Control power lead and Compressor trigger harness together to make a single harness. I used a Weather Pack connector on the Bronco Aux Switch lead (doubling the Compressor trigger and Pressure Control hot to 1 single Weather Pack. I routed the 2 harnesses along an existing harness across the firewall.

I velcro-ed the Pressure Control computer to the top of the @4x4TruckLEDs.com mount.

I used this cloth fabric tape to make my harness for Pressure Control hot and Compressor trigger.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYZDN2X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this Weather Pack kit for connections.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CN99TCA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And some self adjusting wire strippers to save some aggravation.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OQ21CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Weather Pack connectors are the move! I did this when adding my Diode Dynamics lights and it's truly a game changer. Easy swap around from Aux Switches as the build changes over time and peace of mine for IP67. Worth getting the dedicated crimp tool for them too. IP67 is dust and dirt proof and waterproof for 1m for up to 30 min. At the point in the engine bay that they're at, if it's under 1m of water for 30 min I've got bigger issues than my fog lights lol.

 

[Merc4x4]

Weather Pack connectors are the move! I did this when adding my Diode Dynamics lights and it's truly a game changer. Easy swap around from Aux Switches as the build changes over time and peace of mine for IP67. Worth getting the dedicated crimp tool for them too. IP67 is dust and dirt proof and waterproof for 1m for up to 30 min. At the point in the engine bay that they're at, if it's under 1m of water for 30 min I've got bigger issues than my fog lights lol.

the weather pack kit I got has ratchet crimpers that crimp both the wire and rubber at the same time. only comes with 3 single connectors and I used 2 for this proj.

 

[350vudu]

I'm interested in doing this when my Bronco arrives. However, I am curious if anyone has ran air lines from the chuck to all four wheel wells?

 

[SillyPosition]

You can set the PsI that you wont to for airing up / airing down with your phone.

Airing down?
Is it better to take all the wires and activate the compressor compared to using those screw-on deflators that you preconfigure to some pressure?

How does it work / how fast?

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

Airing down?
Is it better to take all the wires and activate the compressor compared to using those screw-on deflators that you preconfigure to some pressure?

How does it work / how fast?

The compressor is an air compressor... it's purpose is to provide air to tires. If you need to deflate you wouldn't use the air compressor system to deflate as it's going to fight you and try and inflate the tires.

For deflation you'd use something like the Staun Tire Deflators. They screw on and stop at a pre-set PSI: https://www.4x4truckleds.com/staun-tire-deflator-4-pack-standard-duty-6-30-psi/

The air compressor can't SUCK AIR out. So if you set the PSI to say 18 on the ARB Pressure system it can't just suck air out. All it's doing is opening up a manifold to allow air out and it turns that off when it reaches a certain pressure.

 

[Aman]

The compressor is an air compressor... it's purpose is to provide air to tires. If you need to deflate you wouldn't use the air compressor system to deflate as it's going to fight you and try and inflate the tires.

For deflation you'd use something like the Staun Tire Deflators. They screw on and stop at a pre-set PSI: https://www.4x4truckleds.com/staun-tire-deflator-4-pack-standard-duty-6-30-psi/

The air compressor can't SUCK AIR out. So if you set the PSI to say 18 on the ARB Pressure system it can't just suck air out. All it's doing is opening up a manifold to allow air out and it turns that off when it reaches a certain pressure.

For deflating, you still connect the hoses in the same manner as if you are inflating the tires, but the Pressure Control Kit will allow the air to escape and will automatically stop when the tires reach the desired PSI.

 

[4x4TruckLEDs.com]

For deflating, you still connect the hoses in the same manner as if you are inflating the tires, but the Pressure Control Kit will allow the air to escape and will automatically stop when the tires reach the desired PSI.

I guess you just leave the compressor off in that case. Curious to know how the air escapes though since it's a completely sealed system (although I don't run one myself, we just sell them lol)

 

[Aman]

I guess you just leave the compressor off in that case. Curious to know how the air escapes though since it's a completely sealed system (although I don't run one myself, we just sell them lol)

It actually requires the compressor to be on. I have the single ARB switch powering both the compressor and the pressure control kit.

The ARB pressure regulating valve, part of the kit, has an exhaust port to release pressure. Even when using the kit to inflate, the compressor will stop a couple of PSI above the desired point, and the pressure regulating valve will slowly let out air until it's perfect.

 

[SillyPosition]

That is awesome. Can’t wait.
It means it’s basically faster and more accurate than a preconfigured valves as mentioned above.
I have them. It’s nice but not that accurate at times and it takes long time to deflate as reaching the target pressure.

 

[geargeek]

I finally got around to installing the KR Air Coupler Switch Bracket and ARB Pressure Control Kit.

Aman-Thanks for sharing your install - it was helpful.

I just finished installing an ARB Twin with ARB Pressure Control. Some photos below.
I did a few things differently - not better or worse, just different - hope this helps others.

1. I wanted both an input and an output port on the vehicle front side of the PRV (pressure regulator valve), which better suited my desired air hose routing. So, I mounted the PRV with the pressure transducer facing outwards (away from engine). I bent the PRV bracket about 15 degrees downwards to give the transducer and wires plenty of clearance from the fender - that gave me at least 3/4 inch between wires and fender inner wall. You can only bend the bracket so much before the PRV's solenoids begin to hit the DLCM mounting screw, so plan on bending/test fitting a couple of times. I put in a shorter bolt to hold the PRV bracket to avoid interference with the PRV. Note: That "Tesa Tape taco" along the fender rail is just extra wire in the ARB loom - I'm way too lazy to remake the loom, so I just coiled it up in a secured cocoon.
   • Edit: Note that to connect the PRV to the input and output JIC4 hoses, I purchased the "ARB-0740105 Adapter Straight 1/8 BSP(M) JIC4(M), 2 Pack", along with a JIC4(M)-(M) right angle adapter."
2. I mounted the PCM (Pressure Control Module) in the upper tunnel under the trail sight to better shield it from muck and engine heat. I also angled the opening downwards so moisture can drain out (per ARB's install recommendation). I was concerned how the Bluetooth connection would work in this location, but it works well so far.
3. I chose an externally mounted hose coupler so I can operate without opening the hood. I mounted the coupler on the stub of the crash bar. It's surprisingly easy to get to, and I can connect my Thor's 4-hose (midsize) to it and easily reach all 4 tires. I have a cap for the coupler, and if that doesn't keep the muck out I'll get one of those coupler nipples.

PRV orientation:

PCM location:

Hose coupler on crash bar stub:

 

[wanna1]

I had my ARB Twin installed horizontally on my rear shelf but got tired of the big footprint. I got a universal mount and installed it vertically, regaining some shelf space.

 

[aham23]

Aman-Thanks for sharing your install - it was helpful.

I just finished installing an ARB Twin with ARB Pressure Control. Some photos below.
I did a few things differently - not better or worse, just different - hope this helps others.

1. I wanted both an input and an output port on the vehicle front side of the PRV (pressure regulator valve), which better suited my desired air hose routing. So, I mounted the PRV with the pressure transducer facing outwards (away from engine). I bent the PRV bracket about 15 degrees downwards to give the transducer and wires plenty of clearance from the fender - that gave me at least 3/4 inch between wires and fender inner wall. You can only bend the bracket so much before the PRV's solenoids begin to hit the DLCM mounting screw, so plan on bending/test fitting a couple of times. I put in a shorter bolt to hold the PRV bracket to avoid interference with the PRV. Note: That "Tesa Tape taco" along the fender rail is just extra wire in the ARB loom - I'm way too lazy to remake the loom, so I just coiled it up in a secured cocoon.
2. I mounted the PCM (Pressure Control Module) in the upper tunnel under the trail sight to better shield it from muck and engine heat. I also angled the opening downwards so moisture can drain out (per ARB's install recommendation). I was concerned how the Bluetooth connection would work in this location, but it works well so far.
3. I chose an externally mounted hose coupler so I can operate without opening the hood. I mounted the coupler on the stub of the crash bar. It's surprisingly easy to get to, and I can connect my Thor's 4-hose (midsize) to it and easily reach all 4 tires. I have a cap for the coupler, and if that doesn't keep the muck out I'll get one of those coupler nipples.

PRV orientation:

PCM location:

Hose coupler on crash bar stub:

Slick. I want to do something similar with the location of the coupler. would prefer to NOT have to open the hood all the time. where did you pick up the longer run of steel hose for this?

 

[geargeek]

Slick. I want to do something similar with the location of the coupler. would prefer to NOT have to open the hood all the time. where did you pick up the longer run of steel hose for this?

I used the 1.5m (4.92ft) ARB steel braided hose - most ARB vendors carry it. I did a test routing using a flexible tape measure to estimate the size I needed - you should probably do the same based on your desired routing. I might have been able to get away with 1m with a more direct routing, but I took care to steer well clear of any wiring. I slit open small sections of 1/4" vacuum/wiper hose to put around the SS hose at points where the hose might contact anything. Secured with zip ties.

Note that ARB sells two types of hose couplers:
ARB #0740111 installs in an 18mm hole, and is a male JIC-04 connection
ARB #0740112 is a male 1/4 x 18 NPT fitting, meant to install directly on a compressor, tank or manifold
Note the dust cap has to be purchased separately.

The first one (0740111) is likely the one you will want - that's the one I used. I mounted it to an 18mm sensor mount that I picked up at Grainger for ~$7 (https://www.grainger.com/product/IFM-L-Bracket-18mm-dia-Proximity-35T386). I mounted that bracket to the crash bar with stainless steel #8 machine screws with SS bolts, bolted through some fender washers inside the crash bar since the crash bar holes are large (~17mm). I used some blue loctite on the mounting bolts, and so far so good.

 

[aham23]

Great info. Thank you!

I really am not seeing too many owners do remote locations for the coupler. I love the idea of NOT having to pop the hood for air up and down.

I assume wiring was simple, just hooking it up to one of the Aux Switches?

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