Audio Upgrade - Observations/Questions

[JGee]

for those adding a sub wouldn't it be better turning off the low pass filter in sync (forscan) adding new rear pod speakers with their own bass blockers then tapping into those for high lvl inputs for sub?

I see everyone talking about using only the kick panel speakers for HL inputs, seems this would be easier and yeild better results. Couple weeks away from my B&O and a big audiophile so kicking tires on ideas.

If that’s possible, that would definitely be the preferred option. Unfortunately I am not familiar yet with Forscan. Would be great to learn more about it.

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[da_jokker]

Yeah I dont get why the speakers would have blockers AND the head unit block. Seems like double the complexity.

Of course we know Ford isn't really looking out for us, but we'll make more sense is to leave the head unit alone, put in your blockers for your factory speakers, which would then allow owners to swap out speakers, or tap off wires with no extra interference.

 

[SpursFan]

The way I read its only th backs running crossovers from the head unit, that's why the JBL soundbar requires the dealer flash to remove them. It's my assumption you'll be ble to do this through forscan, that along with some sort of aftermarket rear pods and a sub could be game changing.

 

[Daktari]

has anyone looked into (or is familiar with) marine boat speakers? Maybe replace the entire rear pod with the speaker in it with something made for party boats? Would have to manufacture some kind of bracket to mount things I guess, but that doesn't sound impossible.

I know nothing about boat speakers, but I've heard some loud systems on boats, could be something to investigate. Would probably also look better than that soundbar brick.

 

[palley6]

has anyone looked into (or is familiar with) marine boat speakers? Maybe replace the entire rear pod with the speaker in it with something made for party boats? Would have to manufacture some kind of bracket to mount things I guess, but that doesn't sound impossible.

I know nothing about boat speakers, but I've heard some loud systems on boats, could be something to investigate. Would probably also look better than that soundbar brick.

Someone on the forum did this, printed some sort of PLA mounts at home and everything. Id rather go through all that effort of planning, designing, printing, mounting, etc than put that freaking JBL soundWALL in. I see plenty of wake boats down here in Florida and can confirm a majority of those tower speakers are freaking amazing

 

[Funkdoobiest]

Edit: I jumped the gun and misunderstood what was going on with this speaker.

I received my Infinity Reference 4" speakers and see that they already come with bass blockers for the tweeters. I am planning on using 400 or 600 hertz bass blockers. I'm wondering what is the best way to hook these up. Is it ok to run 2 blockers?

 

[palley6]

I received my Infinity Reference 4" speakers and see that they already come with bass blockers (although very low frequency at 3.3uf). I am planning on using 400 or 600 hertz bass blockers. I'm wondering what is the best way to hook these up. Just leave the speakers as is and install the bass blockers in line, essentially running 2 blockers, or remove the factory cap and installing the different one in it's place?

for my dash speakers I ran the separate bass blockers in line with whatever is included within the speaker itself. There is a noticeable difference, without the additional BB the sound was less than adequate but it improved dramatically after. I wired them in the pods at first but removed them as it truly was fine without and made it too tinny with.

 

[Brock9281]

I would add a powered subwoofer, which I just completed. I have a Kicker HS8 which is an 8" subwoofer that puts out 150 Watts RMS. I am super happy with the performance. It is not a subwoofer to rattle your neighbors windows, just adds a solid bottom octave to the base system. I did order the Infinity Reference 4 inch speakers which i will install in the dash, along with 600hz Bass Blockers. I kept the stock 6 1/2 inch kick panel speakers because they are waterproof and the load on them is now less with the sub. The installation of the sub was a bit involved, but once completed it is the best $ 270 that I spent on any audio system. BTW I am a former Ford Audio System Engineering Manager, and the base system is the worst sounding system that Ford has put out in decades. I understand the limitations of the speaker packaging in the Bronco is a big factor.

Can you share pic of sub installed?

 

[JGee]

 

[JGee]

The Kicker sub is the small box on the right

 

[NDBronco]

I have read a few things that I thought I would chime in for. Subwoofers are rated at a certain power handling in watts RMS. A sub doesn't put out 150 watts RMS, that is the maximum it can handle from an amplifier before it causes damage. Second, what most people see on aftermarket coaxial speakers for a capacitor "bass blocker", is the high pass capacitor for the tweeter on the speaker. It doesn't stop bass from going to the main woofer, even though its only 4". A coaxial speaker is 2 or more speakers on the same speaker location, (coaxial). So you will need a capacitor "bass blocker" for the front speakers in the dash and the frequency to use is dependent on the speaker being used and the size. Most people here say 400 to 600 HZ. That is a good range but can be higher or lower slightly. Here is a website I found that has the micro Farad (uF) value of a capacitor and the corresponding frequency it will block lower than on a chart. Look at the 4ohm values as that is what most car audio speakers are. You will see the 3.3uF capacitor in the picture above and that it has a cutoff frequency of 12,000Hz so this would definitely be for a tweeter. Also, according to others, the rear 4" speakers are already crossed over by the head unit so no capacitors "bass blockers" are needed. I haven't done mine yet but hope to soon. Sorry this is so long. Hope this helps.

https://www.amprepairparts.com/xovercaps.htm

I almost forgot, wire the capacitor inline with your positive wire like in the diagram on this website.

 

[JGee]

I have read a few things that I thought I would chime in for. Subwoofers are rated at a certain power handling in watts RMS. A sub doesn't put out 150 watts RMS, that is the maximum it can handle from an amplifier before it causes damage. Second, what most people see on aftermarket coaxial speakers for a capacitor "bass blocker", is the high pass capacitor for the tweeter on the speaker. It doesn't stop bass from going to the main woofer, even though its only 4". A coaxial speaker is 2 or more speakers on the same speaker location, (coaxial). So you will need a capacitor "bass blocker" for the front speakers in the dash and the frequency to use is dependent on the speaker being used and the size. Most people here say 400 to 600 HZ. That is a good range but can be higher or lower slightly. Here is a website I found that has the micro Farad (uF) value of a capacitor and the corresponding frequency it will block lower than on a chart. Look at the 4ohm values as that is what most car audio speakers are. You will see the 3.3uF capacitor in the picture above and that it has a cutoff frequency of 12,000Hz so this would definitely be for a tweeter. Also, according to others, the rear 4" speakers are already crossed over by the head unit so no capacitors "bass blockers" are needed. I haven't done mine yet but hope to soon. Sorry this is so long. Hope this helps.

https://www.amprepairparts.com/xovercaps.htm

I almost forgot, wire the capacitor inline with your positive wire like in the diagram on this website.

Great advice, thanks for sharing it. One clarification however, in regard to Integrated Subwoofers, such as the Kicker HS8 or HS10, the subwoofer amplifier is included in the box itself. And it is rated at 150W RMS. Standalone subwoofer speakers of course are only rated at how much power they can handle. Enjoy Bronco Life!

 

[MnLakeBum]

Another important thing to remember in any convertible vehicle is that the bass response will be much worse when the top is off or when using the soft top vs. when using the hardtop. Without the top on(or with the soft top) you have no enclosed space so it takes larger subwoofers and amplifiers. To get good bass, you need to compress the air in the given enclosed space you have. The Bronco, with its boxy design and often equipped with noisy off-road tires, is a crappy listening environment compared to any other hard-top vehicle that is much quieter.

I could install the same $6,300 aftermarket system that I put in my daily driver, but in the Bronco, the sound will get diminished by the noisy environment, and the bass response will be dramatically reduced using the soft top or the top removed.

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