Aux Upfitter Overhead Switches installed! - DIY writeup instructions & photos

[BrianH]

It's definitely a fair amount to tear down to install and a little time consuming, which is the biggebut I do think anyone with some technical knowledge, the patience, and tools can probably do it.

For that purpose I totally agree. 4x4TruckLEDs sells the wire to switch the OEM fog harness over to an aftermarket. Plug and play and will retain the factory fog light button functionality.

Perfect - thanks Rusty

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[speedup]

@RustysBronco

Thank you for the write up. I just purchased a 2023 Outer banks (w/2.7L) with 314a high/lux package, and no aux switches .

I have a couple questions, I am looking for the parts you listed in post #2 and it looks like fuse box MB3Z-14A068-NBA has been replaced with part MB3Z-14A068-Z. The wire assembly part M2DZ-14335-C has been replaced with M2DZ-14335-J, and the console part number is the same.

Is it OK to use these updated part numbers, or do I need to find those specific ones.

For the programming, I have seen a couple posts saying that you DO NOT need to do any programming and this whole thing is just plug and play swapping the above parts, and others say that you do need to program. Is there a clear answer on if programming is needed for a 2023?

I am loving this truck and really want to add these switches to it. Any help or advice given would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mdk100]

I did not do the programming. I do throw an error in the Body Control Module (BCM), which I can see in Forscan, but can’t clear. I’m not sure whether it’s the switch or fuse box, but assume the latter. I’ve had my Bronco in to the dealer for warranty work, and they never said anything about the code.

The cost of the programming tool is pretty prohibitive for one use. Panda Motors has a remote Forscan service, but you have to buy the OBD module. I was hoping someone might launch a service with a loaner module. Otherwise, I may ask the dealer to clear the code at some point, or just live with it.

 

[RustysBronco]

@RustysBronco

Thank you for the write up. I just purchased a 2023 Outer banks (w/2.7L) with 314a high/lux package, and no aux switches .

I have a couple questions, I am looking for the parts you listed in post #2 and it looks like fuse box MB3Z-14A068-NBA has been replaced with part MB3Z-14A068-Z. The wire assembly part M2DZ-14335-C has been replaced with M2DZ-14335-J, and the console part number is the same.

Is it OK to use these updated part numbers, or do I need to find those specific ones.

For the programming, I have seen a couple posts saying that you DO NOT need to do any programming and this whole thing is just plug and play swapping the above parts, and others say that you do need to program. Is there a clear answer on if programming is needed for a 2023?

I am loving this truck and really want to add these switches to it. Any help or advice given would be greatly appreciated.

Your parts are probably okay, as these part numbers do change time to time. Maybe have parts dept double check against a unit on the lot. As far as programming, I wouldn't want to give guidance that creates future servicing issues at your dealer or with Ford. My recommendation would be to get it programmed but to @mdk100's point, you might have a dealer who really doesn't care.

 

[SAS OBX SOB]

I just ordered the 3 parts for $566 plus shipping. I am going to take the plunge in a few weeks. For the price and a little (maybe a lot) of extra effort this will be a better option than aftermarket switches. Now I just hope I don't mess it up!

I am debating about the programming piece. I may do it down the road and update the window module at the same time. The price for the scan tool is unfortunate.

 

[RustysBronco]

I just ordered the 3 parts for $566 plus shipping. I am going to take the plunge in a few weeks. For the price and a little (maybe a lot) of extra effort this will be a better option than aftermarket switches. Now I just hope I don't mess it up!

I am debating about the programming piece. I may do it down the road and update the window module at the same time. The price for the scan tool is unfortunate.

Good price on the parts.

As far as programming, just buy the tool from Amazon and throw it on a credit card. When you're done programming, return it. Then you're only out the cost of the 3 day FDRS license.

You're welcome.

 

[speedup]

When you're done programming, return it.

I received the harness, fuse box, and switches today for my upgrade. I don't want to go the use and return route. Any chance someone in DFW area has one I can use/borrow?

 

[Reidt131]

[Last Updated 5-6-2022]

For folks who are going to ask, this was done on a 4 door, 2.3L, non-Sas, soft top, Outer Banks Lux.

IMPORTANT: Your configuration might be different and cause you to need a different harness than what I did. It is entirely possible your Bronco was built differently. Before you begin, I recommend getting with your parts guy to confirm which harness and parts are correct for your specific build. You will need check the pins on all your related harnesses coming from the BCM up the driver A-Pillar and down the passenger side to determine adequacy. It is entirely possible that your Bronco A-Pillar harness was not pinned from the factory & you will need extra efforts (not covered here). Lastly, if your fuse box does not have the aux fuse pins in place, you will need to speak to your local parts guy to obtain a replacement box equipped with all the necessary fuse connections. See posts 100+ for additional images and discussion on this.

I took TONS of pictures, which you can download and sort by their respective date/time stamp as a visual aid. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1W4w8jAuNS2ksrwHCcVZ68Dddv5unJrHg

In the simplest of explanation of how do this for those who can't wait for the detailed write up.

Parts Needed (Confirm W/Your Local Ford Dealer For Your Specific Model -

Outerbanks Lux
Overhead Trim Panel: M2DZ-78519A70-JC (Includes 6 Aux Switches)
A-Pillar Wire Harness: M2DZ-14335-C
BCMC/Fuse Junction Panel Assembly (Fuse Box): MB3Z-14A068-NBA

Base
Overhead Trim Panel: M2DZ-78519A70-JC
A-Pillar Wire Harness: M2DZ-14335-G
BCMC/Fuse Junction Panel Assembly (Fuse Box): MB3Z-14A068-Z

Big Bend
Overhead Trim Panel: M2DZ-78519A70-JC A-Pillar Wire Harness: M2DZ-14335-J
BCMC/Fuse Junction Panel Assembly (Fuse Box): MB3Z-14A068-Z

Tools needed (Shop Dog Optional)
1. Trim panel tools
2. 7mm socket
3. 8mm socket
4. 10mm socket
5. 15mm socket
7. Torx T20 bit.
8. Torx T30 bit.
9. J2534 Compliant Scan Tool

• Here's a "cheap" one that I can confirm works: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097NHQ7ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_NRA0HYG48NA7FA6DBGFF

10. Laptop loaded with the Ford Diagnostic & Repair System (FDRS) software (configure your scan tool before using). Here are the websites to download the FDRS software and buy a license (was $50 for a 2-day last I checked)

• https://www.fordtechservice.dealerconnection.com/VDIRS/wds/vcm_retail_renewal_Latest.asp
• https://www2.helminc.com/ngsm/account_create.asp?u=&src=motorcraft
• Caution: Proceed at your own risk when programming (my formal disclaimer if you screw up your own Bronco).

11. A test light.

Instructions
1. Retract soft top.
2. Remove trim starting with the "oh shit" handle on passenger and driver sides.
3. Remove small header trim panel pieces near the soft top latch (both sides).
4. Remove the A-pillar airbag plastic trim from the a-pillar panel assembly (both sides).
5. Remove the airbag trim from above driver and passenger roll bar.
6. Loosen hardware mounting the driver and passenger airbags to the roll bar and the clip fastening the airbags to the a pillar (they'll hang freely).
7. Remove driver and passenger trim panel below the "oh shit" handle.
8. Add 3M Masking Tape around the visor mounting point (this will prevent scratching up your header panel). Remove and disconnect driver and passenger visors & visor clip.
9. Pull a-pillar panels out carefully, exposing the factory harness on either side.
10. Pull header panel above visor location, disconnecting the wire harness mounts.
11. Pull dome light assembly down carefully disconnecting all connections to the mirror, dome assembly, microphone, etc.
12. Swap dome assembly, retaining the microphone from the old dome assembly with the sunglass holder.
13. Replace harness with new harness equipped with the connection for the upfitter switches.
14. Reassemble, working steps 13 backward to 1.
15. Move on to replacing the Fuse Junction Panel Assembly (BCMC). First, using your J2534 compliant scan tool plugged into your OBD port and laptop with FDRS software, begin by starting the PMI process in FDRS for the BCMC Module. Follow the on screen prompts. It is crucial you make sure your laptop is powered at all times & does not power down mid-install.
16. When instructed, get back under the under hood, disconnect the battery and start swapping the Fuse Junction Panel Assembly/ Battery Junction Box with the one including support for the aux switches. Once swapped, reconnect the battery and get back to the laptop.
17. In FDRS, complete the on screen instructions to finish the PMI Process. You might get a Procedure Unsuccessful error indicating the BCMC has a parts mismatch. Go ahead and move on to the next step.
18. Go back to FDRS, download/run the BCMC Module C Configuration. Follow the on screen prompts until you have confirmed the programming was successful. (This will be necessary to avoid DTC's due to the BCMC with a different part number.)
19. Check your switches and aux wiring with a test light for functionality.
20. Marvel at your work.

Time to install
1.5-2 hours (less for an experienced tech)

Overhead Wire Assembly Swap // Interior Tear Down // Switch Dome Light Assembly Install

Install of BCMC-C w/suppport for Aux Switches

New BCMC Programming

Test Light Wired To AUX1

Shout out to @1Five1 Garage for their video on pulling apart the header panel. It was a huge help to get things started!

Not sure if this was always the price, but the link to an "affordable" scan tool is now showing it costing $534.

 

[Brian_B]

Not sure if this was always the price, but the link to an "affordable" scan tool is now showing it costing $534.

Yup that's about right.

There is a much cheaper one that works ~most of the time~, but there are reports that it can occasionally brick a module and you are up crap creek then. (VXDiag VCX)

 

[Reidt131]

Yup that's about right.

There is a much cheaper one that works ~most of the time~, but there are reports that it can occasionally brick a module and you are up crap creek then. (VXDiag VCX)

Eek, not sure that is worth the risk. It's a shame that Ford makes the software free but makes you spend $500+ to plug into it.

 

[Brian_B]

It's a shame that Ford makes the software free

Nope, the software isn't free - FDRS is $50 for 2 days, or $850 for a year.

Forscan is "free demo" - but it's also not official Ford software, and it also has an annual subscription fee. It's just a guy in Russia who's reverse engineered a lot of the stuff. But Forscan can't reprogram modules, it can just update already-existing configuration parameters.

 

[Reidt131]

Nope, the software isn't free - FDRS is $50 for 2 days, or $850 for a year.

Forscan is "free demo" - but it's also not official Ford software, and it also has an annual subscription fee. It's just a guy in Russia who's reverse engineered a lot of the stuff. But Forscan can't reprogram modules, it can just update already-existing configuration parameters.

Wow, I guess I never realized FORSCAN isn't a Ford software

 

[speedup]

Technically you don't 'need' to do any reprogramming for these switches to work ... or so I have read/been told/seen in videos.

Right? what's the downside of not reprogramming?

 

[RustysBronco]

Technically you don't 'need' to do any reprogramming for these switches to work ... or so I have read/been told/seen in videos.

Right? what's the downside of not reprogramming?

You'll basically throw a code and it'll be inherently obvious you were tinkering with your car. Godforbid you end up with a warranty concern, you'll open the door for an easy denial.

 

[mdk100]

As I’ve stated, it all works fine without programming. I’ve had mine in for an airbag issue that was fixed with a couple hours of warranty work. It wasn’t an issue then, but who knows with a bigger issue or different dealer. I’ve also installed a Naviks unit and front camera, so there’s a lot they could use on a warranty claim. I’m just keeping my fingers crossed and watching these threads to see if a cheaper programming option comes up.

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