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Auxillary switch wiring connection/distribution panel?

edernest

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The auxillary switches included in the Bronco are a big hit that made adding aftermarket accessories much cleaner and easier, but in my opinion Ford stopped just short of making it a great implementation. I'm referring to the multicolor bundle of wires that sits under the hood that we all need to decipher and tap into. I'll admit it's not rocket science to do so, but it seems like a lost opportunity to not provide a more polished distribution panel of sorts. I've been cutting/splicing as needed so far on mine but that got me curious, how have you handled yours? Have you found any cleaner methods of distribution? Ideally something that allows you to create solid connections and move things around easily as needs change? Bonus points if it's clearly marked to indicate which switch/location the wire leads to.
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edernest

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Here was my solution:

Ford Bronco Auxillary switch wiring connection/distribution panel? img_8439-jpe


This terminal strip I used came with a plastic cover that had numbers labelled 1-6 etched into it, so it's easy to tell which wire is coming from the corresponding switch.
Yep, this is the kind of idea I had in mind. How did you handle your ground connections?
 

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Yep, this is the kind of idea I had in mind. How did you handle your ground connections?
For the grounds, I wired in eyelet terminals and added them to existing ground connections in the engine bay and throughout the frame (whatever was closest to the accessory that needed power).
 

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edernest

edernest

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this is what i did, works great.

grounds for all my various lights are just at grounding points on the vehicle.
Looks like it would make it easy to move things around. Have you done something similar to the unpowered lead wires they provide (the ones that run to various spots on the vehicle)?
 
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murphtron

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cr117

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Looks great. How did you attach the box with the terminal block to the inside of the engine bay?

This guy has a similar solution. I’ve had it saved for awhile.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...nection-distribution-panel.83249/post-2074539
That link is just going back to my post in this thread.

There’s a little metal tab on the side of the engine bay there. I had to cut a notch through a section of the back of the terminal strip using a dremel so it’d slide over the tab. After that, I just put a machine screw through the top to hold it in place
 

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That link is just going back to my post in this thread.

There’s a little metal tab on the side of the engine bay there. I had to cut a notch through a section of the back of the terminal strip using a dremel so it’d slide over the tab. After that, I just put a machine screw through the top to hold it in place
Whoops. I updated the link in my original post. It's also here.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/saga-of-the-king-in-yellow.58814/page-2#post-1674062
 

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Looks like it would make it easy to move things around. Have you done something similar to the unpowered lead wires they provide (the ones that run to various spots on the vehicle)?
This is the kit for all those wires
 

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No, but I'm not one for overthinking and overcomplicating things for no reason. The wires are clearly diagrammed in the manual and it's easy enough to add a flag to each connection as you see fit describing it's use.

Adding more crap only serves to complicate things more, introduce more future failure points and make some OCD social media pictures get more likes.
 

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RC MLC6 is what I used. Makes all six switches 30 amp double fused and double relayed. Easy install, only have to splice into the factory wires once and can change which switch something is on in seconds.
 
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edernest

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RC MLC6 is what I used. Makes all six switches 30 amp double fused and double relayed. Easy install, only have to splice into the factory wires once and can change which switch something is on in seconds.
So, with the double relay do you need to hit two switches to turn something on? Curious how that works in practice.
 

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So, with the double relay do you need to hit two switches to turn something on? Curious how that works in practice.
The factory switches activate a relay that sends power to the wires by the firewall. The MLC6 box connects those wires to its own on board relays with individual 30A fuses on the power out side of each relay. So single switch for each position but double redundant protection to the vehicle electrical system.
The other plus is making all six switches 30A instead of 1 30A, 1 20A and 4 15A. So if you have an accessory that draws 25A you don’t have to put it on switch number 1 you can put it on any of them.
 
 


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