B&O sub installed on Base Bronco ….sorta….

[cmcbronco]

No, that’s the beauty of the kicker 500.1, it can handle factory amp signals as high level inputs. Basically has a built in LOC.

Ya I didn’t think there was a need really but the guy at plug n play insisted newer fords needed one because at times the radio may not send signal because it doesn’t detect the aftermarket audio. The kicker key 200.4 has the resistors built in where as the key 500.1 does not.

im just trying to think of a reason his doesn’t sound right. When I had my sub hooked up before I added the 200.4 i didn’t have any issues. But I added the resistor later just because plug n play was so adamant about it.

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[Ksjrb03]

Ya I didn’t think there was a need really but the guy at plug n play insisted newer fords needed one because at times the radio may not send signal because it doesn’t detect the aftermarket audio. The kicker key 200.4 has the resistors built in where as the key 500.1 does not.

im just trying to think of a reason his doesn’t sound right. When I had my sub hooked up before I added the 200.4 i didn’t have any issues. But I added the resistor later just because plug n play was so adamant about it.

I called kicker before purchasing and they verified the 500.1 can handle the factory sub speaker wires as high level inputs without the need of a line converter. They can handle up to 40 watts per channel and according to kicker no Ford amp is putting out close to that. Mine is working great as is, so far! I think he had a polarity issue. He mentioned using adapters on the sub wiring harness, the ones I had bought previously had the polarity reversed.

 

[SCTWNB]

I called kicker before purchasing and they verified the 500.1 can handle the factory sub speaker wires as high level inputs without the need of a line converter. They can handle up to 40 watts per channel and according to kicker no Ford amp is putting out close to that. Mine is working great as is, so far! I think he had a polarity issue. He mentioned using adapters on the sub wiring harness, the ones I had bought previously had the polarity reversed.

I called Kicker Tech Support when my 500.1 did not sound correct/not working and he said to check the polarity. Low and behold, I had one of the inputs to the hi-level polarity reversed! Boom. Then it worked!

 

[cmcbronco]

I called kicker before purchasing and they verified the 500.1 can handle the factory sub speaker wires as high level inputs without the need of a line converter. They can handle up to 40 watts per channel and according to kicker no Ford amp is putting out close to that. Mine is working great as is, so far! I think he had a polarity issue. He mentioned using adapters on the sub wiring harness, the ones I had bought previously had the polarity reversed.

I called Kicker Tech Support when my 500.1 did not sound correct/not working and he said to check the polarity. Low and behold, I had one of the inputs to the hi-level polarity reversed! Boom. Then it worked!

Sounds like that’s his issue then…hopefully he’ll get it straightened out!

 

[Migs1313]

Thank you guys I'm going to look all this over and go at it again this week appreciate everyone's quick responses and advice!

 

[Migs1313]

Ok I'm coming to the masters for help. I have the Amp wired like this
Sub wires. To Amp wires
black to grey and black
Green to grey
Yellow to white
Purple to white and black
The stock sub and Amp is louder then this set up

 

[cmcbronco]

Ok I'm coming to the masters for help. I have the Amp wired like this
Sub wires. To Amp wires
black to grey and black
Green to grey
Yellow to white
Purple to white and black
The stock sub and Amp is louder then this set up

I think you have the sub wired wrong

 

[Migs1313]

I think you have the sub wired wrong

How should it be wired?
I have the positive and negative coming from the Amp going to positive A and negative B sides the then the other sides jumpered

 

[cmcbronco]

How should it be wired?
I have the positive and negative coming from the Amp going to positive A and negative B sides the then the other sides jumpered

I think you have it wired for 8ohm you’ll get more sound out of the 2ohm load.

 

[Ksjrb03]

How should it be wired?
I have the positive and negative coming from the Amp going to positive A and negative B sides the then the other sides jumpered

I agree with cmc you want to wire the 4ohm DVC parallel rather than series to get 2 ohm. Your gain is also lower than mine. I don’t have a pic of my final settings but crank that gain up a bit, after you wire the sub correct.

 

[SCTWNB]

Ok I'm coming to the masters for help. I have the Amp wired like this
Sub wires. To Amp wires
black to grey and black
Green to grey
Yellow to white
Purple to white and black
The stock sub and Amp is louder then this set up

Like the others said. You wired it in series. You need to wire it in parallel for 2 ohms

 

[cyberfalco]

Well... quite possibly the best thread I have found since joining this forum.

 

[Jaustin410]

Awesome work! Love how factory everything looks in the end, down to the mesh covering the sub. I know you said you used rubber washers to prevent rattling. Did you experience any rattling with this set up? Do you think you would have benefitted from using dynamat behind the enclosure or are there any other sound deadening steps you would have taken, looking back?

 

[cmcbronco]

Awesome work! Love how factory everything looks in the end, down to the mesh covering the sub. I know you said you used rubber washers to prevent rattling. Did you experience any rattling with this set up? Do you think you would have benefitted from using dynamat behind the enclosure or are there any other sound deadening steps you would have taken, looking back?

I used Dynomat inside the enclosure along with polyfill. It took me about 3 hours to do the inside of the box but it definitely helps with sound. I also added more on the wheel well around the enclosure and on the inside Of the panel. This wasn’t shown in pictures because I did it later on. Id say I’m mostly rattle free now. Only time I hear anything is with the sub all the way up volume high and still it’s only higher bass frequencies that cause any rattle. So for everyday use I don’t notice anything. I’m definitely happy with it!

 

[Bad_Pony]

Here’s the part number from the box. I didn’t get into the wiring too much because I’ve seen that on the forum a lot. Power wire I ran through a plug in the firewall diwn the drivers side then crossed it over to the passenger side by the rear seats. For audio signal I tapped into both front kick panel speakers and ran those down the passenger side along with the bass control knob wire.

Is this part number the same for the 4 door as well?

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