BAMF Tailgate reinforcement

[broncorik]

Getting longer lug studs was the hardest part of this project. Each factory stud has 2-4 tac welds that are very nice clean welds. That translates into being very hard to remove in order to remove the stud. I ended up grinding away what I could and drilling out the rest.

The stud lugs support bracket is not very thick and does not have a lot of room for error.

I had to use a Dremel with a cut off wheel and then I enlarged the holes to fit actual longer zinc wheels lugs versus plain bolts...but the kicker is that was AFTER I had already done it once before when I had to add a spacer to clear the spare from my new bumper (so it was back to taking everything apart and adding even longer studs). I wish the manufacturers would test their projects out with all OEM wheel combos prior to selling them. Even now, with BAMF selling a 1/4inch spacer, folks with any spare with any more than a 15 mm positive offset (Sasquatch wheel is 30) are going to have some work to do (and they are better off buying a stack of wheel spacers on Amazon than paying 20 bucks for a spacer from BAMF that is too short). The BAMF setup may work for fitment if you have a zero offset or less tire than the 35, but even if you can get your tire to clear the flanges and bolt up there is still the issue if the hinge holes being way to large and the bracket not following the identical hinge contours. To address that means delrin conical spacers (good luck finding them) followed by a 4mm x 22mm washer then the bracket then 3/8 ID/7/8 OD spherical washers to compensate for the bolt head not being parallel with the bracket surface and then using a M8 10.9 flange bolt with an 18mm OD head. So you pay hundreds for the bracket then have to source hardware if you want the bracket to be mounted reliably. The pro is that the bracket is strong...but if it can't be more mounted not sure what the point would be. Also note that the delrin (or steel if you can make them or find them in 45 degrees 8mm ID...good luck) spacers will keep the bracket from gouging your hinges/scratching your paint. I used 3m paint protectuon tape where the carrier mounts (and BTW you have to file or grind down the welds on the BAMF bracket if you intend for your OEM carrier to fit), but if I wouldn't have used spacers over the hinges that would have been instant paint destruction.

Sponsored

 

[kodiakisland]

We need a rear bumper thats hight and tight, with a tire carrier

all the tailgate mounts are band aids

Yeah, I had hoped BAMF would come out with one soon, but sounds like too many irons in the fire already. LOD Offroad will have one soon that will probably meet my needs.

 

[broncorik]

I just found a place that already has a bracket available and is working on the jerry can holder now...the bracket will bolt directly to the bracket into threaded inserts that the bracket has for various accessories. I will keep the forum updated!

 

[Mikerider]

Is there an option to order raw steel? Like the function of this support a lot with the added flanges.

 

[broncorik]

Is there an option to order raw steel? Like the function of this support a lot with the added flanges.

Do you mean raw steel on the BAMF?

 

[Mikerider]

Do you mean raw steel on the BAMF?

yes sorry should have clarified, looking to order the BAMF gate support bracket without any coating.

 

[broncorik]

yes sorry should have clarified, looking to order the BAMF gate support bracket without any coating.

The owner is pretty receptive I think he would sell you one bare. The coating he uses, however, is supposed to be one of the selling points ("self-healing"). What would you do with it in bare?

 

[Happy]

For lugs we just used 10.9 strength 12mm bolts with 1.50 thread pitch.
Since we need a spacer we used a regular nut on the tire side of the lug studs. Then used a metal washer and ABS plastic to complete the spacer thickness. This worked out well as 50mm long bolts were 1st used then we switched out to 60mm. Since the lugs were just bolted it was real easy to change. We will now use orange thread locker to secure the lug bolts.

 

[Mikerider]

The owner is pretty receptive I think he would sell you one bare. The coating he uses, however, is supposed to be one of the selling points ("self-healing"). What would you do with it in bare?

main plan is to fabricate mounts for maxtraxs, VHF antenna, strobe lights and chain saw. Easier to start with raw vs have to remove a coating to weld/bolt to the existing plate.

 

[Kholding]

Here are a few pics of mine with a zero-offset wheel mounted.

 

[broncorik]

Here are a few pics of mine with a zero-offset wheel mounted.

The zero offset is a great fit for the BAMF bracket...I just wish BAMF would have reduced the flange by about 18-20 mm where the stock Sasquatch tire contacts so anyone who has the Sasquatch spare could fit it with no mods. I know I am in the minority, but I like my tire to be even with or slightly inside the flares.

 

[broncorik]

The zero offset is a great fit for the BAMF bracket...I just wish BAMF would have reduced the flange by about 18-20 mm where the stock Sasquatch tire contacts so anyone who has the Sasquatch spare could fit it with no mods. I know I am in the minority, but I like my tire to be even with or slightly inside the flares.

And you bolted yours directly to the hinges, with no spacers?

 

[BAMF]

The zero offset is a great fit for the BAMF bracket...I just wish BAMF would have reduced the flange by about 18-20 mm where the stock Sasquatch tire contacts so anyone who has the Sasquatch spare could fit it with no mods. I know I am in the minority, but I like my tire to be even with or slightly inside the flares.

I'm going to move the flange on the next batch to fit the stock set up without the spacer. We designed it for aftermarket wheels but it seems like there are a few guys wanting to run the support with factory wheels and tires So we will accommodate.

Our current batch is not powdered just yet so we will knock a little off those as well.

 

[broncorik]

I'm going to move the flange on the next batch to fit the stock set up without the spacer. We designed it for aftermarket wheels but it seems like there are a few guys wanting to run the support with factory wheels and tires So we will accommodate.

Our current batch is not powdered just yet so we will knock a little off those as well.

That would be awesome and most appreciated by the stock/Sasquatch crowd thanks! Any thoughts of reducing the hinge hole diameters? If your bracket hole spacing matches the OEM hinge hole spacing closely enough, there would be no need for the slotted/large diameter holes that are on your current brackets. Also, if you could provide beveled delrin (or better yet steel) spacers that would fit in the hinge holes and keep the bracket just off the hinges that would be great for alignment. As-is, the backside of the bracket does not fit against the hinges squarely...which puts the mounting bolts out of alignment and doesn't provide an ideal clamping arrangement (I had to go with spherical washers to compensate). I am currently running delrin spacers (that I got from my RC bracket) with your bracket, but because the holes on your bracket are oversized the bracket sits just barely on the edges of those spacers and I can't get an accurate torque values. Also, because the holes are so large, using the supplied 5/16 (thin) washers results in the washers bowing inward (even with 15 ft pounds of torque) as the bolts are tightened (and the bolts are stainless and not equivalent to the OEM grade 10.9 hardware). Even though the RC bracket is not nearly as stout as your bracket, the tolerances on the hinge holes are so close that a washer is not even necessary...and they supply the delrin spacers because that are aware that due to the various contours of the hinges it would be way too challenging to make the bracket sits squarely in the hinges without the spacers.
Just my 2 cents but I believe some other folks have expressed similar concerns. I love the appearance and the build quality and the structural stability of your bracket, but if I can't get it secured adequately to the hinges it won't serve it's intended purpose. If you sort out the shaved flanges and the holes/alignment with the hinges I'd get in line for the version 2.

 

[broncorik]

That would be awesome and most appreciated by the stock/Sasquatch crowd thanks! Any thoughts of reducing the hinge hole diameters? If your bracket hole spacing matches the OEM hinge hole spacing closely enough, there would be no need for the slotted/large diameter holes that are on your current brackets. Also, if you could provide beveled delrin (or better yet steel) spacers that would fit in the hinge holes and keep the bracket just off the hinges that would be great for alignment. As-is, the backside of the bracket does not fit against the hinges squarely...which puts the mounting bolts out of alignment and doesn't provide an ideal clamping arrangement (I had to go with spherical washers to compensate). I am currently running delrin spacers (that I got from my RC bracket) with your bracket, but because the holes on your bracket are oversized the bracket sits just barely on the edges of those spacers and I can't get an accurate torque values. Also, because the holes are so large, using the supplied 5/16 (thin) washers results in the washers bowing inward (even with 15 ft pounds of torque) as the bolts are tightened (and the bolts are stainless and not equivalent to the OEM grade 10.9 hardware). Even though the RC bracket is not nearly as stout as your bracket, the tolerances on the hinge holes are so close that a washer is not even necessary...and they supply the delrin spacers because that are aware that due to the various contours of the hinges it would be way too challenging to make the bracket sits squarely in the hinges without the spacers.
Just my 2 cents but I believe some other folks have expressed similar concerns. I love the appearance and the build quality and the structural stability of your bracket, but if I can't get it secured adequately to the hinges it won't serve it's intended purpose. If you sort out the shaved flanges and the holes/alignment with the hinges I'd get in line for the version 2.

And additionally it would be awesome if the rectangular section of your bracket that the OEM carrier goes over was about 1/8-1/4 inch shorter on the top and bottom (or if the weld was on the inside instead of outside edge or if the corners were shaved) because the carrier doesn't fit (unless the welds on the corners are ground down). Even with them ground down, the carrier has to be forced over that center section and that throws the bolt holes out of alignment.

Sponsored