BAMF Tailgate reinforcement

[broncorik]

Where can I get this, please share info.... Like these hinges better

Ford dealers charge nearly 300 EACH...this place charges under 200...still expensive, but IMHO worth it (note there is an upper and lower and they are different):

https://www.oemfordpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/ford-hinge-assembly-rear-door-n2dz7826800a

https://www.oemfordpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/ford-hinge-assembly-rear-door-n2dz7842900a

Note that they arrive unpainted.

Make sure if you decide to buy them that you make some kind of a plate out of sheet metal to maintain the hinge alignment with nuts on the back... Ford only sells the hinges as an assembly, meaning that they come with the pillar brackets (but you can reuse your originals). You just need to uninstall the pillar brackets from the hinge and then remove the two m8s for each hinge that hold your hinge to that bracket and then just replace the OEM hinges with the beefier hinges. I made a plate that maintained alignment and then just replaced one hinge at a time and used the other OEM hinge as my alignment source (then repeated the process for the other new hinge using the new hinge I just mounted). The hinges must remain parallel to one another otherwise you'll get binding when the door opens. After you get them installed, you'll be able to enjoy the M8 threaded holes to which you can mount whatever mounting plate you decide to go with or whatever accessories you decide to go with (without relying on sharing the holes that the OEM hinge uses to hold the tailgate in place). There is a vendor who is just finishing up the plate that I will be installing designed specifically for the Raptor hinges, and I will post pics as soon as I receive mine and install it.

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[Defyfate11]

Ford dealers charge nearly 300 EACH...this place charges under 200...still expensive, but IMHO worth it (note there is an upper and lower and they are different):

https://www.oemfordpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/ford-hinge-assembly-rear-door-n2dz7826800a

https://www.oemfordpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/ford-hinge-assembly-rear-door-n2dz7842900a

Note that they arrive unpainted.

Make sure if you decide to buy them that you make some kind of a plate out of sheet metal to maintain the hinge alignment with nuts on the back... Ford only sells the hinges as an assembly, meaning that they come with the pillar brackets (but you can reuse your originals). You just need to uninstall the pillar brackets from the hinge and then remove the three m8s for each hinge that hold your hinge to that bracket and then just replace the OEM hinges with the beefier hinges. I made a plate that maintained alignment and then just replaced one hinge at a time and used the other OEM hinge as my alignment source (then repeated the process for the other new hinge using the new hinge I just mounted). The hinges must remain parallel to one another otherwise you'll get binding when the door opens. After you get them installed, you'll be able to enjoy the M8 threaded holes to which you can mount whatever mounting plate you decide to go with or whatever accessories you decide to go with (without relying on sharing the holes that the OEM hinge uses to hold the tailgate in place). There is a vendor who is just finishing up the plate that I will be installing designed specifically for the Raptor hinges, and I will post pics as soon as I receive mine and install it. RTR makes a great setup as well, including their own version of heavy duty hinges, but it costs well over $1,000 and it is rarely in stock.

This is a lot of work to get the Raptor hinges on. I am willing to do it though. Is that JB weld you used to secure the back nuts on the plate? Also in terms of robustness in your opinion is the Raptor Hinges more robust than RTR's? I am okay with spending the $1000 for their setup as there is a lot to their product and I am sure the Raptor hinge upgrade along with a tire carrier will end up being around that price anyways.

 

[broncorik]

This is a lot of work to get the Raptor hinges on. I am willing to do it though. Is that JB weld you used to secure the back nuts on the plate? Also in terms of robustness in your opinion is the Raptor Hinges more robust than RTR's? I am okay with spending the $1000 for their setup as there is a lot to their product and I am sure the Raptor hinge upgrade along with a tire carrier will end up being around that price anyways.

It may seem like a lot but as long as you make the alignment plate first it is pretty easy. Shim your gate doesn't move, tire off, and remove your OEM hinge bolts to swing the OEM hinges out to 90 degrees and scrawl holes for the plate. Drill the plate, push the bolts back through, then expoxy the nuts on...snug the bolts to align the nuts and let it dry. I used Gorilla expoxy and they did not move.

The RTR hinges are ok, but IMHO not as sturdy or precisely aligned as the Raptor hinges. RTR provides an X shaped alignment plate, because they fortunately realize hinge alignment is critical, but it won't be as precise as the home made one with expoxied or tack welded nuts. The issue with the RTR setup, besides cost, is the weight...and it plays well only with other RTR accessories (which are also mad expensive and often out of stock). Their Jerry can carrier costs 350, plus another 150 for the mount plate...no way I was going to pay nearly 2k for that. With the Raptor hinges you are in for 400, then the plate the vendor is making will more than likely be about 150, and their Jerry can holder (in the works) will be far cheaper than the RTR and it is going to fit both the MFC and Jerry cans.

The best part about RTR or Raptor setups are that the connection between the tire carrier and the hinge is far better then the setups that share the tailgate bolts with the plate...I don't trust those for longevity at all (and several people have already lamented that they ended up with the hinge nutplate falling into the tailgate chasm (with no access label) as a result of trying to like the plate up with the bolts. If that happens the plate can be fished back into place with a magnet, but far easier to have your gate secured to the hinges first and then have a plate that bolts to your hinges.

 

[BAMF]

Doing a little testing with 4 gallon rotopax cans.
Vertical 4 gallon retains 95% of the door swing with a 37" tire. it will hold a double stacked 4 gallon but door swing becomes very limited with a 37" tire. With 4 gallons of water there is a little too much shake for my taste so the universal mounting plate needs a little reinforcement with a small flange to stiffen the plate.

I'm going to try to get a little more swing out of it as there is a little more space between the tire and plate. but as it sits there is room for a Hi-Lift or 1 gallon rotopax on the other side of the plate so it's a toss up.

It's still in development we should have the new mounts in stock on the site to order by the end of the month or sooner.

 

[broncorik]

This is a lot of work to get the Raptor hinges on. I am willing to do it though. Is that JB weld you used to secure the back nuts on the plate? Also in terms of robustness in your opinion is the Raptor Hinges more robust than RTR's? I am okay with spending the $1000 for their setup as there is a lot to their product and I am sure the Raptor hinge upgrade along with a tire carrier will end up being around that price anyways.

Finished product (MFC carrier is almost finished):

 

[Sitruc_btb]

Finally got around to installing that BAMF bracket. Didn't run into any hiccups during install. Most fun was just lining up bolts with the hinge plates and such. I'm running the OEM Badlands wheels, so the tire actually contacts the bracket horizontal flanges. I'll have to replace the carrier studs with longer studs, and space out the spare, away from the bracket a little bit.

 

[Sitruc_btb]

Found some extra 3mm washers at work, spaced out the factory Badlands wheel/tire. The sidewall tread/biters barely contact the bracket now.

 

[Defyfate11]

Found some extra 3mm washers at work, spaced out the factory Badlands wheel/tire. The sidewall tread/biters barely contact the bracket now.

Want this design for the Raptor...

 

[menikmati]

I'm running the OEM Badlands wheels, so the tire actually contacts the bracket horizontal flanges. I'll have to replace the carrier studs with longer studs, and space out the spare, away from the bracket a little bit.

I'm guessing this is because BAMF and others are designing their products for 35"+ tires. I'm also on OEM Badlands 33" tires and had trouble with antenna brackets contacting the tire in roughly the same location. The companies making the brackets claim that they work with the standard factory configurations, but I'm pretty sure that none of the aftermarket companies have access to each of the various Bronco configs, so fitment verification is on a best case basis.

 

[Sitruc_btb]

I'm guessing this is because BAMF and others are designing their products for 35"+ tires. I'm also on OEM Badlands 33" tires and had trouble with antenna brackets contacting the tire in roughly the same location. The companies making the brackets claim that they work with the standard factory configurations, but I'm pretty sure that none of the aftermarket companies have access to each of the various Bronco configs, so fitment verification is on a best case basis.

It wasn't as big an issue as others had earlier in this thread. BAMF did shave down the flanges to accomodate the Sasquatch wheel, but I still needed some clearance adjustment for the Badlands wheel with 35" tire. Only needed 3-4mm spaced out to get the tire off the flanges.

 

[F OR D]

Love the BAMF design, have a few questions for people.

• Running 33s with a +30 offset. Will this fit or is it 35+?
• Any option for black bolts/washers or anyone know the size?
• Assume the issues discussed were addressed in future runs.
• The top has holes, right? Any options or ideas for recovery boards? Not all the time, but after use or when I know I may need them.

 

[BAMF]

Love the BAMF design, have a few questions for people.

• Running 33s with a +30 offset. Will this fit or is it 35+? Yes 33's have plenty of clearance
• Any option for black bolts/washers or anyone know the size? We actually just received our custom black oxide coated SS flange bolts. The washers are grade 8 yellow zinc.
• Assume the issues discussed were addressed in future runs. The clearance with the factory Sasquatch wheel and tire was resolved . Putting a beefier tire on the factory wheel could come into clearance issues.
• The top has holes, right? Any options or ideas for recovery boards? Not all the time, but after use or when I know I may need them. The Top and bottom flange has three mounting holes. We will have a large universal plate that will accommodate traction boards or 4 gallon Rotopax cans pictured above on this page on the site later this month.

 

[Brandon Miller]

I put mine on today, not sure why direction said to unplug the camera, I didn't and I don't see why you would. I had two spare bolts not sure why. .

I stripped both plastic screws on the rubber bumpers and had to drill them out. I'm looking for a replacement alternative...

I want to fix those before putting my tire back on so I don't know if there are clearance issues.

 

[BAMF]

I put mine on today, not sure why direction said to unplug the camera, I didn't and I don't see why you would. I had two spare bolts not sure why. .

I stripped both plastic screws on the rubber bumpers and had to drill them out. I'm looking for a replacement alternative...

I want to fix those before putting my tire back on so I don't know if there are clearance issues.

They are not screws they are just push pins with a Philips head. They don't have threads just ribs you can pick them out with a small pick.

 

[Brandon Miller]

What are the two extra bolts for (some size as spare tire bracket bolts)?

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