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I couldn’t fit the kick panel speaker cover back in place without trimming the inner ring of the cover. The speaker adapter pushed the 6.5 out farther than the stock speaker. It’s easy to trim with some side snips.
can I ask how thick the spacer is? 1" or 1/2"?
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WuNgUn

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You don't need them on the rears, they're filtered at the head unit. And you don't need to (and likely don't want to) filter the 6.5 kick panel speakers.
So the rears are on their own channel, with high-pass filter at the HU output? And the fronts are full range (shared channel with the kickers), with the 4"ers capped to remove lowend...?👍🏻
 

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So the rears are on their own channel, with high-pass filter at the HU output? And the fronts are full range (shared channel with the kickers), with the 4"ers capped to remove lowend...?👍🏻
From all I have read out here this looks to be correct. (please correct me if wrong) I'm going to go with yes!
 

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Tapped into KP speakers and mounted the Kicker 11HS8 to the back of the rear seat. What a difference the sound is with all the speakers replaced.

AB16B86B-3E6E-4880-B4C3-1EE7B56B36AF.jpeg
That little guy won't fit under the seats? I mean, if you maybe remove the seat first?
Also... What cabling and routing did you use to power it?
 

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So the rears are on their own channel, with high-pass filter at the HU output? And the fronts are full range (shared channel with the kickers), with the 4"ers capped to remove lowend...?👍🏻
Yes, the rears are filtered (via software) at the head unit.
As you say, the feed to the 6.5" is full range and goes up to the 4" dash speakers via a jumper wire on the connector at the 6.5" speakers.
 

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Like many of you here, it's been ages since I've done car audio (last build was a water cooler Carputer with a pair of Asus Xonar 5.1 sound cards doing active crossover... left channel was low pass, right channel high pass, four pair of 2-way components and a dedicated sub output, but I digress)...
Question is.... If you put a cap on the rear 4" to cut at 300hz for example, and it's already filtered for 300hz, what is the net result? Still 300hz filter?
 

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Like many of you here, it's been ages since I've done car audio (last build was a water cooler Carputer with a pair of Asus Xonar 5.1 sound cards doing active crossover... left channel was low pass, right channel high pass, four pair of 2-way components and a dedicated sub output, but I digress)...
Question is.... If you put a cap on the rear 4" to cut at 300hz for example, and it's already filtered for 300hz, what is the net result? Still 300hz filter?
Shouldn't make much difference, if any... (technically none at all, but there are tolerances to everything)

I read somewhere on here that the software filter can be disabled using Forscan, but I can't confirm nor deny that.
 

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Like many of you here, it's been ages since I've done car audio (last build was a water cooler Carputer with a pair of Asus Xonar 5.1 sound cards doing active crossover... left channel was low pass, right channel high pass, four pair of 2-way components and a dedicated sub output, but I digress)...
Question is.... If you put a cap on the rear 4" to cut at 300hz for example, and it's already filtered for 300hz, what is the net result? Still 300hz filter?
Yes how things have changed in the industry....hell, I remember when the CES show was with the adult industry show:rolleyes:
 

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I think I’m just gonna use my high end Bose blue tooth box in the back lol
 

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That little guy won't fit under the seats? I mean, if you maybe remove the seat first?
Also... What cabling and routing did you use to power it?
see my response with pics on page 7
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