Change Driveline Fluids Early!

[B_Dominant]

Gang,

I just completed changing the fluid in the front axle, transfer case, and rear axle and added a Ford Performance cover on the rear axle at the same time. I changed all 3 at 2500 miles, the Bronco now has 5000 miles on it, so another 2500 mile run on all three.

I did not find anything unexpected and overall it was a smooth process--that anyone can do. I am not a professional videographer and so the rear axle is a few videos, but by the time I made it to the transfer case, I had figured it out. Apologies for the multiple videos, bad angles, and having to listen to my voice.

I am happy to answer any questions.

This funnel is a lifesaver - https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10106B-FloTool-Filler-Refill/dp/B000EH4UXM

Front Axle Video -



- Amsoil 75W-110 fluid (about 1.2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-110-svt/?code=SVTQT-EA
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose 75W-110 because it is the upper viscosity that 75W-90 used to be before the SAE J306 table update in 2005 AND because the capacity is so small. I also had it in my stash--I will switch to 75W-140 when it runs out.

Transfer Case Video -



- Motorcraft Mercon LV fluid (about 1.8QTs) - https://www.amazon.com/Ford-XT-10-QLVC-Oil-Automatic/dp/B07ZTRVLX9
- Permatex 59214 High Temperature Thread Sealant (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-59214-Temperature-Thread-Sealant/dp/B0002UEOP0)
- I chose Motorcraft Mercon LV versus Amsoil, Red Line, Royal Purple, etc. because there is no combustion by products, the temperatures are nominal, and Motorcraft is cost effective. From my viewpoint, changing standard Motorcraft Mercon LV more often is better than running a premium synthetic longer.


Rear Axle:

- Amsoil 75W-140 fluid (about 2 QTs) - https://www.amsoil.com/p/severe-gear-75w-140-svo/?code=SVOQT-EA
- PTFE Megatape (Gray) - https://www.amazon.com/HERC-15100-1-2X1000-MEGATAPE/dp/B00LO49TV2
- I chose 75W-140 because Dana recommends it for the M220 axle (they also recommend it for the M210 front axle). Any 75W-140 off the shelf (Castrol, Mobil, or Valvoline, etc.) will also work if you do not want to order Amsoil.
- The bolt thread depth in the axle housing is 23mm. If using the OEM rubber and steel gasket with the Ford Performance cover, then you need M8 bolts that are 25mm long. The supplied bolts with the cover are 20mm and they will be too short for the OEM gasket.

Video 1 - Tools and Parts -

Video 2 - General Discussion About Cover/Brake Line Clips & Prying on Cover -

Video 3 - Initial Drain -

Video 4 - Inspection and Cavity Discussion -

Scott towel showing metal from cavity:

Video 5 - Cover Installed and New Brake Clamps -

Video 6 - OEM Brake Clip Construction -

Rear Cover Hardware (NEW longer flange bolts are needed if using OEM gasket because it it thicker. They are not needed if using the supplied gasket with the Ford cover--use the supplied bolts that come with the cover):


10 Each - Flange Bolts: M8x1.25x25mm long - https://belmetric.com/m8-coarse-din-6921-flange-bolt-class-10-9-steel/?sku=BFD8X25YLW

2 Each - Brake Line Studs: M8x1.25x75mm long - https://belmetric.com/m8-double-end-stud-class-10-9-hardened-steel/?sku=SH8X75DBLK

4 Each - Stud Washers: https://belmetric.com/hv-350-steel-thick-extreme-strength-din-6340-fender-washer/?sku=WFEHV8X23YLW

4 Each - Stud Flange Nuts (against cover and one side of brake line clamp): https://belmetric.com/class-10-steel-tall-collar-flange-nut-din-6331/?sku=NFFH8TALLYLW

2 Each - Stud Outside Nuts: https://belmetric.com/din-6923-coarse-full-wrench-stainless-smooth-flange-nut/?sku=NFF8X13SS

Magnetic Drain Plugs:

3 Each (if replacing all to be the same) - Low-Pressure 316 Stainless Steel Plug with Hex Drive, Hollow with Magnet, 1/2 Pipe Size https://www.mcmaster.com/1457N14

@CarbonSteel When putting the brake line Studs in did you utilize all 17mm of thread making the smooth portion of the bolt flush with the face of the diff? Thanks!

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[CarbonSteel]

@CarbonSteel When putting the brake line Studs in did you utilize all 17mm of thread making the smooth portion of the bolt flush with the face of the diff? Thanks!

With the studs that I used, I "double nutted", threaded them in, snugged them, but not as tight as the cover bolts which were torqued. I then removed the "double nuts" and at that point there was still a bit of the smooth shoulder protruding past the face of the cover.

Therefore, I added two thick washers to ensure that when I torqued the nuts against the cover, I would not have to wonder if the nut had bottomed out against the stud shoulder or the cover itself.

Make sense? Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[BoldNorth]

With the studs that I used, I "double nutted", threaded them in, snugged them, but not as tight as the cover bolts which were torqued. I then removed the "double nuts" and at that point there was still a bit of the smooth shoulder protruding past the face of the cover.

Therefore, I added two thick washers to ensure that when I torqued the nuts against the cover, I would not have to wonder if the nut had bottomed out against the stud shoulder or the cover itself.

Make sense? Let me know if you have any questions.

Just to clarify: When you say you double nutted them -- the purpose of that is just to install and tighten the studs vs. using the hanger bolt socket?

Also another question on the torque spec for the diff cover -- do you use an angle gauge for the second stage or just approximate it?

Really appreciate on the info on this post, as well as the torque spec file!
I've never done these maintenance items, but these posts are giving me confidence to do so!
Thanks!

 

[CarbonSteel]

Just to clarify: When you say you double nutted them -- the purpose of that is just to install and tighten the studs vs. using the hanger bolt socket?

Also another question on the torque spec for the diff cover -- do you use an angle gauge for the second stage or just approximate it?

Really appreciate on the info on this post, as well as the torque spec file!
I've never done these maintenance items, but these posts are giving me confidence to do so!
Thanks!

Correct--tightened two nuts together and used them to snug the studs into the axle housing, then remove them.

For the torque value, I went to 15newton-meters and wait a few minutes for the gasket to "settle in" and then to 22newton-meters. You could increase to 25newton-meters if needed.

 

[B_Dominant]

@CarbonSteel looks like everyone bought out the studs Lol any ideas where I can get some? Looks like I may be able to use a shorter stud?

Otherwise I may have to use the included gasket... you said you would use rtv?

 

[CarbonSteel]

@CarbonSteel looks like everyone bought out the studs Lol any ideas where I can get some? Looks like I may be able to use a shorter stud?

Otherwise I may have to use the included gasket... you said you would use rtv?

Let me check. I may have some I can send to you.

 

[B_Dominant]

Let me check. I may have some I can send to you.

No worries my man. I'm heading out of the country next week. I may order these as they will be here on Sunday. Think they'll work? @CarbonSteel

https://a.co/d/icSpC48

 

[B_Dominant]

I picked these up just to see but I think the threaded area might be to short? 60mm total length

 

[CarbonSteel]

I picked these up just to see but I think the threaded area might be to short? 60mm total length

They will be about a 1/2" too short. PM me your address. I have some 80mm that I'm not going to use.

 

[jsoa]

Changed out the front-axle today, along with the first oil change. Here is the drain plug before and after cleaning it. definitely some metal bits and paste present

I did have issues refilling, tight fit for sure, that is until I cut the funnel a couple inches, it became a breeze thereafter.

 

[Bronco_MI]

Transfer case fluid change at 5k miles this evening. You can see some grit in pan. Zero offroading so far - this is city and highway driving. Also changed the engine oil using Amsoil. Differentials and manual trans are next.

 

[Bronco_MI]

Transfer case fluid change at 5k miles this evening. You can see some grit in pan. Zero offroading so far - this is city and highway driving. Also changed the engine oil using Amsoil. Differentials and manual trans are next.

If anyone is still on the fence about changing fluids early, here is my front diff this morning.

 

[coffeetwitch]

@CarbonSteel,

Great thread, im going to be replacing my m190 with an m210 geared to 5.13. If ive followed correctly, 75w140 is good to run in it?

Thanks

 

[CarbonSteel]

@CarbonSteel,

Great thread, im going to be replacing my m190 with an m210 geared to 5.13. If ive followed correctly, 75w140 is good to run in it?

Thanks

Absolutely--Dana recommends 75W-140 in every Advantek axle they make which includes the M190, M210, and M220 axles.

 

[jsoa]

finally got around to doing the rear diff, so much gooey paste on the plug. Took the full 2qts

I replaced the OEM cover for now, I plan to install the FP cover at 5k when I redo these fluids.

ps. I nearly gave my self a concussion when I raised my head too quickly and hit the tow hitch, stung like a bitch

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