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HELP! Deciding between the Draw-Tite v. Curt Hitch trailer hitch receivers. Questions about torque wrench and Bump Step

Pancho Kornwallace

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Here is what I know about hitches. Hoping that you may help me understand what I am missing and also answer my questions:

1. In the aftermarket, there is the long Draw-Tite hitch that extends under the tire or the short/flush Curt hitch.
2. BOTH can be installed without touching the bumper and without a lift.
3. We should NOT install them with the screws backwards. Better to be patient and finagle the screws diagonally near the muffler.
4. Both require a torque wrench. But which torque wrench should I get? Does the wrench need to be short so I can still install without lifting the vehicle? If so, can I get enough leverage to install them? Any recommendations on buying one? Or should I try to rent?
5. The Draw-Tite hitch should work with most bike racks, since it will clear the back tire (that is all I am using it for). The disadvantage is that it may cause shin damage (to me) every time I go to the Costco.
6. I did come up with a potential solution after some searching. It is called the Weathertech Bump Step. It will also help protect my vehicle from other people parallel parking behind me and will help me get easier access to the roof. Source: https://www.weathertech.com/bumpstep-original/. Has anyone used this with either hitch?

Thanks for your help!

Ford Bronco HELP! Deciding between the Draw-Tite v. Curt Hitch trailer hitch receivers. Questions about torque wrench and Bump Step BUMP_Step_Hero
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Layman

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The Drawtite hitch, in my humble opinion, looks awkward. Sticks out too far and you are stuck with that full-time. I use the curt hitch and a longer drawbar. If the intent is bike racks, get an extension for the curt you can take on and off as needed. That way you are not stuck with that shin smasher permanently attached to the back of your bronco.
 

RYD003

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I can't speak for the draw tire, but the Curt is a perfect fit on my bronco. Instructions that came with it show bolts going in from the muffler side and out towards the bumper. Torque spec listed at 110lbs. I used a long torque wrench and 110 I didn't think would be easy with a short one.
 
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Pancho Kornwallace

Pancho Kornwallace

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I can't speak for the draw tire, but the Curt is a perfect fit on my bronco. Instructions that came with it show bolts going in from the muffler side and out towards the bumper. Torque spec listed at 110lbs. I used a long torque wrench and 110 I didn't think would be easy with a short one.
Thanks! I was thinking a shorter torque wrench would be a better fit because there is not much clearance, but a longer torque wrench would be easier to get to 110 ft-lbs, for people do don't go to cross fit 5X per week. Can you tell me which torque wrench you used?
 
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Pancho Kornwallace

Pancho Kornwallace

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The Drawtite hitch, in my humble opinion, looks awkward. Sticks out too far and you are stuck with that full-time. I use the curt hitch and a longer drawbar. If the intent is bike racks, get an extension for the curt you can take on and off as needed. That way you are not stuck with that shin smasher permanently attached to the back of your bronco.
Thanks! How much does the "drawbar" that you mention cost? The official "receiver tube extender" from Curt appears to cost just as much as the hitch itself: https://www.curtmfg.com/part/45791
 

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Pancho Kornwallace

Pancho Kornwallace

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On a different thread, @JHawk mentioned the "olsa split beam torque wrench". Looked that one up: https://olsatools.com/products/split-beam-torque-wrench?variant=31681005125683

It looks like a really nice tool, however, I am not sure how it would work for this application.

Also...I am going down a bit of a rabbit hole now that is turning into a money pit. :ROFLMAO:

This started as a $100 Curt DIY install to save money. Now I my need to double that price to get the tube extender, then I may need to get a $168 torque wrench too (I admit that I love getting new tools). All in my $100 project is gonna be just under $400.
 

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Thanks! I was thinking a shorter torque wrench would be a better fit because there is not much clearance, but a longer torque wrench would be easier to get to 110 ft-lbs, for people do don't go to cross fit 5X per week. Can you tell me which torque wrench you used?
It's a Tekton 1/2 torque wrench Don't recall where/when I purchased it. It's about 18" long.

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819544DB-4288-4AD8-AFA2-93AEDE1BF681.jpeg


D6F0551D-D4CA-4CDD-B41D-72057EE42187.jpeg
 

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If you're mostly looking for a bike rack carrying hitch and won't do much semi heavy off roading the Drawtite would be right. You sacrifice departure angle, tongue weight and potentially a chin or two. For trailer towing the Curt might be better, if you can get by without a seperate extender as that will lower the allowable tongue weight. See if a drop hitch will set your trailer level and clear the spare tire without an extension. If you use a separate extension minimize tongue weight and get anti rattle clamps (2), you will want one with any hitch.

And, don't go buy a torque wrench just for this. Guent and tight will be fine. If you weigh 150 and lift yourself on your heels you'll get 100 or so with a one foot wrench
 

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The bump step looks great and its functional. Step on it to clear/dry the roof and videos show it’s effectiveness when rear ended. Get the XL though.
 

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Went with the drawtite, I will tow a boat and didn’t feel comfortable with an extension and don’t need a drop for towing height. Side view a little awkward, straight on from behind looks normal. I think it will depend on you. Long torque wrench, no issues.
 

AJKitebrder40

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Pancho Kornwallace

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If you're mostly looking for a bike rack carrying hitch and won't do much semi heavy off roading the Drawtite would be right. You sacrifice departure angle, tongue weight and potentially a chin or two. For trailer towing the Curt might be better, if you can get by without a seperate extender as that will lower the allowable tongue weight. See if a drop hitch will set your trailer level and clear the spare tire without an extension. If you use a separate extension minimize tongue weight and get anti rattle clamps (2), you will want one with any hitch.

And, don't go buy a torque wrench just for this. Guent and tight will be fine. If you weigh 150 and lift yourself on your heels you'll get 100 or so with a one foot wrench
Thanks! Except I will be on my back and I am just on the edge of 200 lbs. A saw a video with the install (from etrailer.com) where the guy was have a bit of trouble.

Also, TBH, I am looking for an excuse to get a torque wrench. I got a Lowe's gift card to use.
 
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Pancho Kornwallace

Pancho Kornwallace

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The bump step looks great and its functional. Step on it to clear/dry the roof and videos show it’s effectiveness when rear ended. Get the XL though.
The name says it all.

BUMP: for getting rear ended (or backing into something).
STEP: for getting to the top of the vehicle, as I do have the roof rails and hope to use them.
 

vzqhsg

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The Drawtite hitch, in my humble opinion, looks awkward. Sticks out too far and you are stuck with that full-time. I use the curt hitch and a longer drawbar. If the intent is bike racks, get an extension for the curt you can take on and off as needed. That way you are not stuck with that shin smasher permanently attached to the back of your bronco.
Remember the long hitch, if I remember correctly, cuts your tongue and towing weight in half.
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